Everybody that wants one can make a solid shaft steering linkage using double D u joints, and a section of double D bar Without welding.
* As seen on Monster TV.
* As seen on Monster TV.
Progress Thread Let's try this again...
- Thread starter Alldegree
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I’m looking at the maximum motorsports kit, and from what I can see there’s no welding involved.
They are stupid expensive for what they are. I know... I bought one. I just feel bad for the guy trying to get the old steering shaft off now that that pretzel of a header is all up in the way with no way to take it off.
I don’t know if that guy is going to be me or not, but I can take the headers off if they get in the way, it’s just going to be a pain. I don’t know if I’d trust myself to make my own steering shaft, I don’t want to screw it up and then have it break on the road or something.
The power steering fluid is still low since the leak as well, which isn’t going to help things. Do I have to use type f or can I use regular fluid since I’m just topping it off?
Check your power steering return lines. Often times the hose clamps can be tightened a little and will stop a leak, if that’s where it’s coming from.
The leak actually stopped, I think it just shot out of the cap when I was trying to turn without power.
edit: now that I think about it, the top hose did feel a little loose. I’ll tighten it up when I get home.
That would explain why the bolt won't budge and the thing still feels loose... I guess it was tightened up from the beginning. The leak probably came from the cap, then. I took a better look under the car, nothing amiss that I didn't already know about, and the rag joint looks ok on both sides. No chunks or cracks, so I have no Idea what I broke.
I also noticed one of my high beam lights is out, and that's a job I'm pretty confident I can do.
I guess I should have explained which were the return lines I was talking about. Good lookin out!
Ok, sitrep:
The steering is fixed, for now. I took it to the shop that did the headers, they seemed to think it was some kind of alignment issue along with something going on with the steering column itself.
I figured out where the rattling sound is coming from in the rear end, or at least the General area. It’s coming from underneath the car. If you put your hand on the floor in the trunk, you can actually feel something shaking around down there.
Obviously, something is loose. I’m hoping it’s just an exhaust hanger, because it only happens when the engine is at a certain rpm and it doesn’t change frequency at all. It happens regardless of whether or not the car is moving. 2000 rpm seems to be where it really likes to make a nuisance of itself.
I also took the car out for a long drive to get a better feel for everything, and after I pulled into the garage and turned the car off I noticed a clicking noise coming from the clutch pedal when I press it. It’s just one, quiet, metallic click coming from the engine compartment about 1/4 of the way through its travel.
The steering is fixed, for now. I took it to the shop that did the headers, they seemed to think it was some kind of alignment issue along with something going on with the steering column itself.
I figured out where the rattling sound is coming from in the rear end, or at least the General area. It’s coming from underneath the car. If you put your hand on the floor in the trunk, you can actually feel something shaking around down there.
Obviously, something is loose. I’m hoping it’s just an exhaust hanger, because it only happens when the engine is at a certain rpm and it doesn’t change frequency at all. It happens regardless of whether or not the car is moving. 2000 rpm seems to be where it really likes to make a nuisance of itself.
I also took the car out for a long drive to get a better feel for everything, and after I pulled into the garage and turned the car off I noticed a clicking noise coming from the clutch pedal when I press it. It’s just one, quiet, metallic click coming from the engine compartment about 1/4 of the way through its travel.
It’s definitely the passenger side exhaust hanger, you can hear it rattle when you shake it. I’ll back the car up on the ramps either tomorrow or the day after and see if I can’t get it tightened.
The horn also stopped working (again). When I press the button, I hear a click from the dash like it’s trying to do something but no sound comes out. I also checked the fuse, and it’s good, so the issue is somewhere else.
I also replaced the high beam that was out.
The horn also stopped working (again). When I press the button, I hear a click from the dash like it’s trying to do something but no sound comes out. I also checked the fuse, and it’s good, so the issue is somewhere else.
I also replaced the high beam that was out.
I get a noise on passenger rear sometimes from exhaust pipe hitting frame rail. A slight twist and it usually went away until it vibrated back against it. Last time I adjusted it I put a screw through the tailpipe and muffler joint to keep from rotating. So far so good.
For the horn, have you checked the connector at the horn or the ground to the chassis. If either are dirty could be your issue.
For the horn, have you checked the connector at the horn or the ground to the chassis. If either are dirty could be your issue.
- Mar 2, 2015
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I'll never back on another car ramp. Never eva will I do it again. Had one shoot under my old van. The only thing that saved the rocker was how high it sat up. I'll pull up on them all day.
I had wondered if putting the drive wheels on first would cause problems. Maybe it would be best to jack it up instead.
When I have to work under my stang I always put it up on 4 jack stands. Because it sits fairly low I need to drive the front wheels up on a 2x8 board (to get the jack under the front cross member) then jack up and position on lowest jack stand height under control arm to cross member mount. Then I do the rear going as high as my jack will go putting jack stands under rear axle or at rear of subframe connectors (if I want suspension droop). Then back to the front and do the same (if I need to be under the front half of the car). Solid safe and plenty of room to work.
Now saying all that, this is when I'm on a level surface. If on a sloped driveway, ramp and wheel chocks is the only way to go.
Now saying all that, this is when I'm on a level surface. If on a sloped driveway, ramp and wheel chocks is the only way to go.
- Mar 2, 2015
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When I was young and lived in the city I used to pull the passenger side up on the curb to change the oil. Those were the days. Now my mustang is so low I have to pull it up on custom ramps I made out of 2 x 8's. They really come in handy though.
I got a decent look at the horn on the ramps, and at a glance all the wires seem to be connected. In order to really get to it though, it looks like I need to get the inner fender liner off. Is that the case? If so, what would be the best way of doing that? Do I have to take off the wheel?
Ive only messed with my horn wiring while my inner fenders were out, but you may get away with just loosening some of the fasteners toward the front, rather than removing the whole thing. The wheel does need to come off to get it completely removed if you have to go that route.
Ok, I’ll try that. When I was trying to look at the horn, I was able to pry part of the liner back, but not enough to get a hand in. The starter motor is sticking again as well, although this time I was able to kill it by turning the key. I had stalled at a stop sign on a hill. It started again no problem after that.
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