I think I did the test, hopefully I did it correctly.Voltage drop test on the starter cable.
you have to post something, which you have done, and it gets approved after a stringent background check and then you can move about the plane ahh, er, site and as you participate you get access to more 'doors'I am unable to read this article. It tells me:
"You do not have permission to read the full content..."
Thanks for sharing that thread, I’ll check all that out next weekend.You want to see what voltage is reaching the starter through the cableyou have to post something, which you have done, and it gets approved after a stringent background check and then you can move about the plane ahh, er, site and as you participate you get access to more 'doors'I am unable to read this article. It tells me:
"You do not have permission to read the full content..."
you should be good to go,
Let me ramble on a little here, if the cables are old or appear dark, replace, I'd replace the starter also or at least get it checked, don't know how old/used or even sized correctly (cable size).
A bad cable/connections will trash a starter really fast, same with a bad starter can trash a stock size cable in short order too.
Added to my wishlist, thanks. I used the crimp butt connectors with heat shrink, and I tried to really crimp the ends, but I guess I didn’t eat my wheaties that morning.I suspect sketchy wire connections. If that is what you discover, I want to show you these now:
That’s likely why I’ve been burning through solenoids, I’ll definitely replace the starter this weekend as well.The starter solenoid is a link in the power supply chain, they are pretty robust and rarely fail, when they do I've found that the battery, cables and starter are sketchy and abused.
Paper gaskets are the norm. The real issue is keeping the thermostat in the correct position while installing the housing. I did mine without using anything to keep the thermostat in place, but it’s really tedious.Not much progress so far this weekend.
I pulled out the old starter, which was a pain in and of itself. Then I noticed water dripping on the floor and traced it to the thermostat housing.
I pulled off the housing and it looked like this:
I think what happened is the thermostat fell down when I was installing it, which caused water to seep into the gasket and make it dissolve. Are these gaskets supposed to be made out of paper?
In any case, I scraped the remaining gasket off the manifold and housing and am now looking for a new gasket, and a way to keep the thermostat in place during installation. Some people recommend spraying an adhesive on the thermostat to make it stick to the housing surface, but that seems like it would make it hard to replace in the future. Others mentioned axel grease, but I don’t think I want that in the cooling system. I need something temporary that’s also water soluble, I think.
Also for the gasket, what should I look for? Oreilly only had Felpro and Murray and they both looked like paper gaskets. Mr gasket makes one that has a rubber insert which looks like it would seal better, but I’d have to order it. Ditto the one from Motorcraft.
That’s ok, I’m no help for my wiring issues either. I feel like I’m going to learn a lot, though.Progress is progress. I am no help for your wiring issues tho.
This combined with the fact that so much of my car is frankensteined from other years makes me feel like getting the 1986 service manuals was kind of a waste of money. Didn’t the 85’s have the battery on the right? Maybe they just copied the previous year’s version for some systems and hoped their technicians could figure out the difference.That's not the only thing they screwed up. They don't indicate the position of G116 except "To Frame" in the diagram. And then, in the pictorial, they show G101 going to the frame but it's "To Engine" in the diagram.
In my 1989 manual however, it does indicate "Left Fender Well" for G101.
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