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AydenTv

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87 to 89 Foxbodys are notorious for having little issues.. But lets Create a Thread on Little Known Little Issues for 1987 to 1989 Foxbody Mustangs...
1. The Spout Connector....
The Spout Connector, located near the Distributor and TFI Module, is like a Vaccum Advance.. In order to Set your Timing correctly while the engine is running, you MUST have that Spout Connector out.. Be sure to plug it in when your done..

2. 140 Mph Guage Swap...
If you have a 1987 to 1989 Foxbody and you like to use a 1990 to 1991 140 Mph Guage Cluster.. Better Do some research.. Yes it will Hook up to connectors, your Speedometer and Rpms will read Correctly, but your Gas Hand will say its Full, Temp Hand wont move and Oil Pressure will read Irradic.. You'll have to either make only the Speedometer Gauge work or Repin the Connector Correectly..

3.Fuse #8...
To My knowledge if you want an Aftermarket Radio to work you better check your O2 Sensor Wires, your Middle Console Wires, and your ground Wires plus Ignition Switch Grey and Yellow I believe Wires.. You are Sure to Randomly Pop this Fuse #8 several Times...

4. TPS, Idle Air, Base Idle Reset, Timing, and Idle Screw...
If you have played with your Idle Screw you better do this check list.. First make sure Timing is 10 BTDC to 14 BTDC then unplug your Idle Air Control.. then turn your Idle Screw to where it barely runs.. Plug it back in and check your TPS with key on engine off and Make sure it is between .90 to .99 and do a Wide Open Throttle and make sure it dont go over 5 volts.. if so look into this further.. also usually TPS and Idle Air Control go bad.. usually its Vaccum Leaks...

5. Everything..
These are 30 year old cheap v8 rwd cars.. Most of them (In my opinion 51%) have been modified and more Dogged Out... alot have Different motors.. Missing Vital Parts.. or even Rigged up in a way that baffles the top Foxbody Experts.. and before you buy your first one.. Be sure you have a Socket Set, A Book or lots of Diagrams, Timing Light, Multimeter, and Alan Wrenches.. Youll need them..

These are the only 5 things I can think of.. plus Post More Little Known Little Things Below and Correct me on any Mistakes please...
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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What's the deal with that airbox in the pic?
I have some issues with your issue list:
Disclainer: these are my opinions and only based on what I have learned on my 89 mustang, my Ford Assembly Manual and on stangnet
#1 the spout is not 'like a vacuum advance'. It only locks (when removed) and unlocks the computers ability to control timing.
#2 my 89 came with the 140mph speedometer, I got it that way and it was original and unmolested although well worn.
I will say that the biggest issue with our cars would be the new owners that search the internet for a 'fix' on a issue they are having and come across miss information and folklore that came from racers in the late 80's trying to understand the computer system and go faster, not doing the research it takes to find what works and what causes issues with drivability.
I have said many times here, buy a good repair manual, not the Haynes or the Chilton book that gives general info and not detailed enough.
Or just join Stangnet.com
you know I have more to say but I have to go, it's monday and they is a car to pickup someplace and I'm the man for the job.
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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On especially 87- 89 GT cars check the multifunction switch connector, headlight / fog light switch connectors, ignition switch connector...also switch body for looseness, 10 pin connectors back side of intake, and AC cut relay connector at right inner fender by air box. Disconnect negative battery cable. Clean all of these connectors with electrical contact cleaner...take a small screw driver and close the female pins slightly....and apply dielectric grease. If any of the connectors are melted replace them. Do not cut the wires is you don't absolutely have to. The new connectors come with sections of wire in them. Take pictures and remover the connector lock with a pic or small screw driver. Using same small screw driver or pic gently release tab holding wire pin and pull wire out of the back of connector. Install in new connector in same location. If wire insulation is missing near connector clean with electrical parts cleaner and add liquid electrical tape to naked wire.

On the GTs it's best to add a relay to carry the load of the fog lights. Factory cars had all types of problems because the harness would overheat and melt connectors and wires. It's a simple solution.

I've seen a bunch of cars hacked up because inexperienced people try to cut and splice factory wires. To do this properly you need raw wire crimps....and a good wire crimper. Solder is not used in most cases...just crimp and heat shrink with insulating glue ( the good stuff ). The crimps with plastic covering are usually garbage unless they are the type that heat shrink. Those flip top butt connectors are garbage and will fail. Electrical tape will usually unravel over time unless you use super glue to glue the end down....or use really good tape.

Take a pice of masking tape and make a tab on the added wires telling what they go to. That will help you or another owner know what it's for later down the line.
 
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Habu135

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Jan 10, 2019
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How about how the cigarette lighter likes to trip fuses because of a short somewhere in the system.

I'll also mention how stock radios like to go bad as the circuits crap out over time. Popping when adjusting the volume and asymmetric speaker volume left to right are another indicator.
 
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Potomus Pete

Gretchen Whitmer is eating at me
Mar 7, 2019
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They might have issues , but a guy can fix them himself in his garage. I cant fix my 99 Tacoma nearly as easy. I love the way I could even do a water pump in one hour. Change an alternator in a half hour. A ten year old Honda could take four ,or five hours for an alternator.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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They might have issues , but a guy can fix them himself in his garage. I cant fix my 99 Tacoma nearly as easy. I love the way I could even do a water pump in one hour. Change an alternator in a half hour. A ten year old Honda could take four ,or five hours for an alternator.
I thought Toyota’s don’t break?
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
Mod Dude
Mar 7, 2002
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They might have issues , but a guy can fix them himself in his garage. I cant fix my 99 Tacoma nearly as easy. I love the way I could even do a water pump in one hour. Change an alternator in a half hour. A ten year old Honda could take four ,or five hours for an alternator.
If someone is taking five hours for an alternator on a Honda... he's doing something wrong.
I thought Toyota’s don’t break?
As a general rule, they don't.
The only thing I had to do was a starter about ten years ago. For some reason I have had to do four fuel pumps. I dont think it would be ok for me to fix any engine problem. I wouldnt know where to begin
Meh, if you can wrench on an old 5.0, you can wrench on a Toyota. Virtually everything is one of three sizes (10mm, 12mm, 14mm) and easy to get to. There's no back-and-forth between SAE and metric, no using the timing cover as the mounting point for every accessory, and OBD-II is far easier to diag than EEC-IV.

3.Fuse #8...
To My knowledge if you want an Aftermarket Radio to work you better check your O2 Sensor Wires, your Middle Console Wires, and your ground Wires plus Ignition Switch Grey and Yellow I believe Wires.. You are Sure to Randomly Pop this Fuse #8 several Times...
I've had three foxes with three aftermarket radios, and NEVER had this issue.

To add to random fox things... zip tie your salt-n-pepper shakers. They'll eventually rattle loose if you don't, and they'll do it at the worst possible time.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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If someone is taking five hours for an alternator on a Honda... he's doing something wrong.

As a general rule, they don't.

Meh, if you can wrench on an old 5.0, you can wrench on a Toyota. Virtually everything is one of three sizes (10mm, 12mm, 14mm) and easy to get to. There's no back-and-forth between SAE and metric, no using the timing cover as the mounting point for every accessory, and OBD-II is far easier to diag than EEC-IV.


I've had three foxes with three aftermarket radios, and NEVER had this issue.

To add to random fox things... zip tie your salt-n-pepper shakers. They'll eventually rattle loose if you don't, and they'll do it at the worst possible time.
This ! Never had an issue with a radio fuse . Had 3 of them with radios and 2 that had full systems .
 

Boostedpimp

15 Year Member
May 8, 2003
1,099
382
124
NJ
87 to 89 Foxbodys are notorious for having little issues.. But lets Create a Thread on Little Known Little Issues for 1987 to 1989 Foxbody Mustangs...
1. The Spout Connector....
The Spout Connector, located near the Distributor and TFI Module, is like a Vaccum Advance.. In order to Set your Timing correctly while the engine is running, you MUST have that Spout Connector out.. Be sure to plug it in when your done..

2. 140 Mph Guage Swap...
If you have a 1987 to 1989 Foxbody and you like to use a 1990 to 1991 140 Mph Guage Cluster.. Better Do some research.. Yes it will Hook up to connectors, your Speedometer and Rpms will read Correctly, but your Gas Hand will say its Full, Temp Hand wont move and Oil Pressure will read Irradic.. You'll have to either make only the Speedometer Gauge work or Repin the Connector Correectly..

3.Fuse #8...
To My knowledge if you want an Aftermarket Radio to work you better check your O2 Sensor Wires, your Middle Console Wires, and your ground Wires plus Ignition Switch Grey and Yellow I believe Wires.. You are Sure to Randomly Pop this Fuse #8 several Times...

4. TPS, Idle Air, Base Idle Reset, Timing, and Idle Screw...
If you have played with your Idle Screw you better do this check list.. First make sure Timing is 10 BTDC to 14 BTDC then unplug your Idle Air Control.. then turn your Idle Screw to where it barely runs.. Plug it back in and check your TPS with key on engine off and Make sure it is between .90 to .99 and do a Wide Open Throttle and make sure it dont go over 5 volts.. if so look into this further.. also usually TPS and Idle Air Control go bad.. usually its Vaccum Leaks...

5. Everything..
These are 30 year old cheap v8 rwd cars.. Most of them (In my opinion 51%) have been modified and more Dogged Out... alot have Different motors.. Missing Vital Parts.. or even Rigged up in a way that baffles the top Foxbody Experts.. and before you buy your first one.. Be sure you have a Socket Set, A Book or lots of Diagrams, Timing Light, Multimeter, and Alan Wrenches.. Youll need them..

These are the only 5 things I can think of.. plus Post More Little Known Little Things Below and Correct me on any Mistakes please...
These are not little known issues with these cars. If anything these problems are caused by hack owners trying to circumvent basic procedure and save money on installing random junk. For example your firing order issue or your Mercury Sable TPS installation.
 

Potomus Pete

Gretchen Whitmer is eating at me
Mar 7, 2019
1,592
538
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Sarasota Florida
I had a 2010 Toyota Camry with 45000 miles right out of warranty the alt went bad . Toyota charged $850. The alt was buried deep within everything. They called it a 5 hour job. Would have taken me forever. I had it fixed and traded it in. Cd player broken, leather seats ripping, and alt. Toyota is great with three wrenches for everything
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
Mod Dude
Mar 7, 2002
8,751
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I had a 2010 Toyota Camry with 45000 miles right out of warranty the alt went bad . Toyota charged $850. The alt was buried deep within everything. They called it a 5 hour job. Would have taken me forever. I had it fixed and traded it in. Cd player broken, leather seats ripping, and alt. Toyota is great with three wrenches for everything
What the job pays and what it takes aren't always related. A rack-and-pinion in that Camry pays 7 hours, I can have it done in less than 2.

Back to the subject at hand...

Aftermarket brake drums for foxes suck and aren't always true. If you replace your rear brakes and pick up a noise or a vibration, have them checked out by a machine shop.
 

7991LXnSHO

Now I want a 10 year badge
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
3,593
812
174
Kearney, NE
This issue might not be all that little known. A 5.0, T-5, limited slip differential equipped Mustang can stick well on dry pavement, yet it will be only good for drifting and getting stuck in other weather conditions or gravel. That’s true even with A traction rated all season radials. And a big tube of sand still does not make it as good as a Crown Vic/Grand Marquis on snow and ice.
I was reminded about the stories from the state patrol until the last blizzard. They ended up sticking the new guys with the patrol Stangs for long shifts and wet or snowy weather around here.
 

AydenTv

Member
Nov 19, 2020
57
1
18
30
Alabama
What's the deal with that airbox in the pic?
I have some issues with your issue list:
Disclainer: these are my opinions and only based on what I have learned on my 89 mustang, my Ford Assembly Manual and on stangnet
#1 the spout is not 'like a vacuum advance'. It only locks (when removed) and unlocks the computers ability to control timing.
#2 my 89 came with the 140mph speedometer, I got it that way and it was original and unmolested although well worn.
I will say that the biggest issue with our cars would be the new owners that search the internet for a 'fix' on a issue they are having and come across miss information and folklore that came from racers in the late 80's trying to understand the computer system and go faster, not doing the research it takes to find what works and what causes issues with drivability.
I have said many times here, buy a good repair manual, not the Haynes or the Chilton book that gives general info and not detailed enough.
Or just join Stangnet.com
you know I have more to say but I have to go, it's monday and they is a car to pickup someplace and I'm the man for the job.
oof so personal but i have fixed my drivabilty issue... that air box is the facory box acting as an air dam and was my issue the whole time.. no manual will tell you that... and i do research online... every night... and yes sometimes i may ask ehat seems like stupid questions but im not a mechanic.. just a 30 year old guy that needed this car running right.. yes it was a mistake to buy a 30 year old mustang and expect it to not be messed with and thrown together but it was only 1400 and made 500 off of extra parts.. and the 140 mph dash to my knowledge only was made for the 89 gts i believe 87 annd 88 was stock 85 mph.. if you take a 90 to 93 140 mph dash it will work but your guages wont work look up 87 to 89 swap to 90 to 93 on google... btw my block is a roller with flat tappet cam and that was the firing order problem.. look up fixin foxes on youtube i have recorded everything ive fixed got like 15 vids to edit together lol but my car is 110 percent fixed... that being said i have being being more active and will continue to be cuz ngl this is imo the most relieable car i had.. mainly cuz only one i could google and or ask fb or forums whats wrong with my car it go vroom vroom suppose to go vrrrrom vvvrrroooooooom berkkkkkkk lmao i do appreciate everyones help
 

AydenTv

Member
Nov 19, 2020
57
1
18
30
Alabama
On especially 87- 89 GT cars check the multifunction switch connector, headlight / fog light switch connectors, ignition switch connector...also switch body for looseness, 10 pin connectors back side of intake, and AC cut relay connector at right inner fender by air box. Disconnect negative battery cable. Clean all of these connectors with electrical contact cleaner...take a small screw driver and close the female pins slightly....and apply dielectric grease. If any of the connectors are melted replace them. Do not cut the wires is you don't absolutely have to. The new connectors come with sections of wire in them. Take pictures and remover the connector lock with a pic or small screw driver. Using same small screw driver or pic gently release tab holding wire pin and pull wire out of the back of connector. Install in new connector in same location. If wire insulation is missing near connector clean with electrical parts cleaner and add liquid electrical tape to naked wire.

On the GTs it's best to add a relay to carry the load of the fog lights. Factory cars had all types of problems because the harness would overheat and melt connectors and wires. It's a simple solution.

I've seen a bunch of cars hacked up because inexperienced people try to cut and splice factory wires. To do this properly you need raw wire crimps....and a good wire crimper. Solder is not used in most cases...just crimp and heat shrink with insulating glue ( the good stuff ). The crimps with plastic covering are usually garbage unless they are the type that heat shrink. Those flip top butt connectors are garbage and will fail. Electrical tape will usually unravel over time unless you use super glue to glue the end down....or use really good tape.

Take a pice of masking tape and make a tab on the added wires telling what they go to. That will help you or another owner know what it's for later down the line.
i had to retake up my o2 sensor harness... messed with car then wires was touching muffler... yeah lol taped and ziptied to not have this issue amymore lol
 

Potomus Pete

Gretchen Whitmer is eating at me
Mar 7, 2019
1,592
538
123
56
Sarasota Florida
I wen"t for a ride yesterday with my very nice running fox yesterday. The thing dies at a light with crank no start. I push it out of the way,and let keep trying to start it. Battery is starting to go down, and it mysteriously starts. I test drive it all around neighborhoods. Nothing wrong so far. To me this is the usual issues with a fox. Mine runs different on different days.....But I know that what ever that was its coming back to get me.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
7,492
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oof so personal but i have fixed my drivabilty issue... that air box is the facory box acting as an air dam and was my issue the whole time.. no manual will tell you that... and i do research online... every night... and yes sometimes i may ask ehat seems like stupid questions but im not a mechanic.. just a 30 year old guy that needed this car running right.. yes it was a mistake to buy a 30 year old mustang and expect it to not be messed with and thrown together but it was only 1400 and made 500 off of extra parts.. and the 140 mph dash to my knowledge only was made for the 89 gts i believe 87 annd 88 was stock 85 mph.. if you take a 90 to 93 140 mph dash it will work but your guages wont work look up 87 to 89 swap to 90 to 93 on google... btw my block is a roller with flat tappet cam and that was the firing order problem.. look up fixin foxes on youtube i have recorded everything ive fixed got like 15 vids to edit together lol but my car is 110 percent fixed... that being said i have being being more active and will continue to be cuz ngl this is imo the most relieable car i had.. mainly cuz only one i could google and or ask fb or forums whats wrong with my car it go vroom vroom suppose to go vrrrrom vvvrrroooooooom berkkkkkkk lmao i do appreciate everyones help
No on the cluster . Mid 1989 v8 cars got a 140 cluster when the federal standards changed, also got the 25th anniversary running horse on the dash. My coupe had a 140 speedo in it from day 1 .
It would make it much easier to read your posts if you formed them in actual sentences rather then typing something out with 3 periods in between each thought . I used to do this too and i see old posts and it makes me cringe .
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
7,492
7,402
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S.I.NY
I wen"t for a ride yesterday with my very nice running fox yesterday. The thing dies at a light with crank no start. I push it out of the way,and let keep trying to start it. Battery is starting to go down, and it mysteriously starts. I test drive it all around neighborhoods. Nothing wrong so far. To me this is the usual issues with a fox. Mine runs different on different days.....But I know that what ever that was its coming back to get me.
You have a harness , distributor ( tfi or pip ) , ecu , or a fuel issue . Either way it isn’t normal in my opinion . I have owned 3 of these cars and all 3 were a daily drive at some point including my coupe . Anytime one of those cars left me anywhere stuck it was of my own doing . These cars when they are right are fairly reliable in mostly stock form.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Yeah, @AydenTv, too much info is not a good thing unless you're able to siphon off the BS. I have run across boobtube video's that were total crap concerning our cars, that is why I got the magic book and a subscription to stangnet.
I've never had the urge to punch the book, I can't say that for some interwebz experience.
Don't take it personal, we try to keep it light around here but factual info with personal experience and results.
Members will 'call you out' when they know something said is inaccurate, like the 25th anniversary badge, my 89 does not have one, I do have a badge I scored from the dash of a 90 gt that I got from the original owner but was ravaged by rust.
Note: anyone can read and understand my post, compare this to the one sentence, one paragraph post of yours. Again, not a criticism, just pointing out that you may need to take a breath, proof read your post before you hit that send button.
Oh, and pm me a link to your youtube channel, if it concerns our cars I'll watch it, I may learn something.
 
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