Looking for Idea/advice on build

a91what said:

Car already has lines, pads, rotors ect... for the 4lug... it still does not stop well enough for my driving style, car is full weight.

I always build my own engines, the cost to outsource the entire thing including assembly is crazy. Engine assembly is very straight forward take your time and follow the spec.

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You are correct, you may have answered your own question.
Engine assembly is very straight forward with competent machine work, I enjoyed building mine.
Seems like 5 lug upgrade is a must for you so guess the only question is stock block or not.
With the power levels your talking about I can't see a stock block lasting very long, aftermarket block
seems to be the way to go.

you don't have anything that'll transfer over to the dart block except the pistons. Stick the same cast crank, and rods back in to a different high dollar block, and you'll be right back where you are presently. Whatever is wrong with your combo is directly related to the recip assy.
An aluminator 4.6 engine combo is a stupidly expensive swap.
4 cams, heads that have to be modified to get rid of some of the factory fuel distribution measures, all cast internals, it won't fit your trans, and after all of that...is still the largest space taken up by 281 cubic inches on the planet.
a 351 was my advice several pages back, and it still is. They're all over the place, your heads, although inadequate will fit, as will your Cam. Your trans will swap, and dimensionally, it fits your car with room to spare.
Ditch the 5.0, even if you buy the dart block, you'll be cheating yourself by stuffing in a potentially bad rotating system. And, by the time you spend that money for the block, you could buy a jy 351, and the upgraded internals to withstand 750 HP forever.
dump the blower, buy a chinee turbo..
Use what you got to build a hot side , and be done.

General karthief said:

I agree with mike on a couple things, 4.6 blaa blaa been done, 351 and a chinee hair dryer? blaa blaa been done, now a 5.0 and a m112, custom intake with other backyard built crap that can fry the tires with 10 lbs of pressure stuffed into it, that is not blaa blaa anywhere you look. Only a few can pull that off and your on that list, fix the engine, turn on the ac and enjoy the ride.

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All the unique in the world doesn't change the fact the a stock block 5.0 was never intended to handle 500 ft lbs of torque. Couple that to the fact that that Eaton probably doesn't like compressing water/meth, was already showing him fuel distribution issues, and upping the boost requires a new belt and pulley (s) and one way or the other, this space ship is gonna end up with " Houston,.....we have a problem".
Hell for that matter he can keep the Eaton on the 351, but that would require making intake manifold spacers to adapt the current intake, and some new bracketry on the front. In the end, compared to the fabrication to make the turbo work, it may be the lesser of two evils. But In my experience, adapters and spacers where oil/water/and air move past increases the potential for a leak of one, or more of any of the three.
A 351 crank is capable enough stock to just prep it and leave it in the block. Better Rods are cheap enough...

300 bucks.
Another 500 gets him a .030 + set of 4030 alloy forged Pistons, pins, locks, and rings..

I'd just about challenge anybody here that I could build this engine short block for the price of a bare Dart block, and have new bearings, timing chain, oil pump, pan, and machine work all in.

*edit...for another 300 bucks, the intake adapter is already out there..


The chassis can be dramatically stiffened with a good set of SF connectors like what I, Dave, and the other guy that overbuilds things have done. Add a side to side floor brace, that ties each side together and you will dramatically stiffen the car.
A roll bar (not cage) in a street car makes for even better side to side stiffness..But add door bars....and you'll hate yourself for doing it. Swing out bars are noisy, dangerous, and the fact that they aren't solid offers jack when compared to the solid versions. Low bars are better than nothing, but anything you do to make it a more safe drag car, makes it a less safe street car.
( drag cars don't typically get t boned at intersections,....t boned door bars make for really good broken legs, and hips.)

Brake upgrades on a street car are overkill....how many times have you been on the street in your present car, where your existing brakes failed to stop your car?
The only reason I upgraded my brakes was because I wanted 5 lug wheels, and it made sense to switch to a bigger brake as a byproduct.