Made a decision....finally

[GameCock5.0]

So anyone that has been following me or talking to me here on Stangnet,
knows that i've changed my mind about 100 times trying to decide which way I want to go with my newest fox.

Supercharger, turbo, 351W, 347 stroker, auto-x, strip car?

Trust me, i've been thinking about it all day, every day.

So i've sat down the past couple of days, set a budget that i'm going to stick to, thought about my uses for the car, and did research on all of my different options.

She will be my daily driver, the a road trip every now and again (never over 4-5 hours tops), and to hit the strip a couple of times a month.

Before I start my list, I should let you know what is currently inside of her at the moment and what i'm building on.

306 Stock block, rebuilt with new bearings, seals, piston rings etc. about 40,000 miles ago
F 303 Cam
GT40 Heads (No porting or polishing at all)
Ford Racing Pushrods, Valve Springs, and 1.6 Roller Rockers.
GT40 Intake
Stock MAF
65mm TB
Underdrive's
MSD Coil
19# Injectors
BBK Shorty Headers
H-Pipe into Flowmasters
Eibach 2.5" Lowering Springs
Spec Stage 3 Clutch
Stock T-5
Stock 3.08 gears


The top end is less than 3,000 miles old, and only about 1,500 on the new clutch.

So, I set my budget for upgrades at 6k. That being said, here we go.

Vortech V3 SCi
255 lhp Fuel Pump
60# Fuel Injectors
MM Street & Strip Grip Box
3.55 Gears

I've linked each to the the sites I plan on buying from Late Model Restoration and Maximum Motorsports. Two of the best in the business in my previous experiences.

I know i'm going to need a stronger tranny before too long, but planning on saving for a T56 or either TKO600 down the road.

With all of the above, I am sitting right at $4,500 spent.
That leaves me $1,500 to play with so far.

I know I still need a new MAF, and TB, but not sure what sizes to go with (suggestions?) as this will be my first F/I car.

I do all my own work so labor cost isn't an issue. If I can't figure it out or get it done, I know someone who can help me get there for a couple of beers and dinner.

After getting those two, I should still have plenty left for a tune and dyno.

Id like to be around 400/420 on the dyno, and be in the low 12's - high 11's by the time i'm done.

Any input about my current selection of parts would be appreciated. Let me know what you guys think of it, if you think i'm going to reach my goals, and any possible problems I could run into with this set up.

Thanks guys!

Ryan

 

[mustangman9812]

Looks like you got it figured out, not a bad build if i should say for a daily driver. If it was a weekend warrior I prob would go down a totally differnet road, but it looks like everything listed is pretty mild so I believe you will be fine with that setup and proper tune.

btw - It is your car and do what you wish but if it was me i would take 6k buy me a dependable DD then mod the stang

 

[GameCock5.0]

Looks like you got it figured out, not a bad build if i should say for a daily driver. If it was a weekend warrior I prob would go down a totally differnet road, but it looks like everything listed is pretty mild so I believe you will be fine with that setup and proper tune.

btw - It is your car and do what you wish but if it was me i would take 6k buy me a dependable DD then mod the stang

Thanks man.

I will be getting back for good in mid summer. I have my bike as my DD while I mod my Fox.
But I absolutely love driving my mustang as a DD.
I love the older vintage feel to the car, the power under my right foot, the looks I get when I rumble past a playground full of kids.

I've admired the fox bodies every since I remember. One day I plan on have one as a DD and one as a weekend warrior. But for now, this one is going to be a little of both.

 

[mustangman9812]

haha Got ya i know what you mean

 

[txstang84]

The MM stuff is awesome, but I'm pretty sure you could probably trim off some cost with just the chassis/suspension parts going with UPR, unless you're dead set on MM stuff. If you talk to Rick91GT, he probably has some of the stuff you need available-like a bigger PMAS (Pro-M) MAF cal'd for the injectors. For the TB, I'd probably go 70 or 75...again, just me. I can't recall what all other parts you said were installed regarding cooling system or brakes, but if you're still rockin' the stock 2 row brass/copper radiator, you might wanna consider upping that to a 2 row aluminum version. I'm pretty sure you said you're going back to SC, and I know it gets toasty there, so the underdrives might be hurting more than helping you. The brakes might need to be better too-depending on how much you like to stop/slow down from the full throttle blasts you'll likely be doing with a Vortech installed.

Pretty sure you already figured in some subs torq box reinforcement and some chassis stiffening unless it's already done. As far as your estimate for what you'll spend-account in an extra 50%...that ought to cover all the nickel and dime crap you'll need to get to make certain parts fit, or some other unplanned contingency.

 

[GameCock5.0]

The brakes are still stock, as well as the radiator.
Was planning on upgrading them sometime after the swap, but this stuff is just at the top of my list for now.
I'm gonna be out of work for about 2 or 3 months after this deployment so I was figuring on tinkering with the brakes/radiator/better exhaust during that time. I know I need all this, but I am just planning the for my basic built and will slowly build up everything else with all that free time on my hands.
And I was wondering the same thing with the underdrives. Think i should just go back to stock?

Yea, FL sub-frame connectors are in that kit. What other torq box reinforcement would you recommend? I would like a torque bar/panhard bar sooner or later, but just not at this stage unless i can find one for a really good price.

I was wanting MM because they have some of the best quality parts, and I really like the way they package different Grip Boxes together. Never had, or heard much about UPR. I'll have to check em out. How do their parts stands up against MM part's?

 

[txstang84]

Well, it's up to you if you want to keep your U/Ds...if you start driving it with them and the supercharger and it never heats up bad or doesn't have problems charging, then don't worry about it. I'm only speaking from observations of friends with them. I kept my stock pulleys after watching three different people with serviceable vehicles crater batteries in the winter and overheat on Texas summer afternoons.

With the torq box stiffening, there are tons of kits available, but at the very least, weld up the control arm mounting pounts. There are folks on here who've posted pictures in the past depicting torn ripped or cracked metal surrounding their mount points after a few dozen trips to the track. On the flipside there are probably thousands that never had a problem, but an ounce of prevention...

And even if you don't have busted boxes, you can still wind up with floorpan and chassis cracks after extended periods, which leads to corrosion...and no one likes rust.

You're right MM does have excellent parts. I just know that when I was shopping for suspension stuff, they were consistently the most expensive stuff I really looked at buying. UPR has been making parts for a pretty good while now, and I think their quality is good. However, I'm only one guy...and based on some recent postings, I've also been the exception for certain other parts that have ritually failed others. I would say try searching through here and finding how many are running UPR and if they're displeased with their purchase and for what reason. I'm running a mixture of parts though...Lakewood UCAs, Lakewood traction action lift bars, MM full length subs, eBay torq box reinforcements, UPR camber caster plates, Granatelli coil over kit and tubular front control arms, QA1 k-member (soon to be replaced by PA racing for the 4.6 swap)...

...time to go to work...yuck.

 

[txstang84]

Oh, and a UPR bump steer kit...

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

So anyone that has been following me or talking to me here on Stangnet,
knows that i've changed my mind about 100 times trying to decide which way I want to go with my newest fox.


Any input about my current selection of parts would be appreciated. Let me know what you guys think of it, if you think i'm going to reach my goals, and any possible problems I could run into with this set up.

Thanks guys!

Ryan

But you've only made 111 posts. And you've changed your mind 100 times already? Do you have a problem after leaving the house wondering if you left the iron on?

 

[GameCock5.0]

But you've only made 111 posts. And you've changed your mind 100 times already? Do you have a problem after leaving the house wondering if you left the iron on?

lol, sarcasm. it happens bro.

not all of my post are about MY project. i've commented on alot of peoples post, asking questions and giving what knowledge i do have out.

 

[bentley429isBAC]

Sounds like a good way to go to me. Dont know anything about those MM kits but I am guessing its pretty expensive.

 

[GameCock5.0]

Sounds like a good way to go to me. Dont know anything about those MM kits but I am guessing its pretty expensive.

yea, really expensive actually. txstang84 has got me lookin at the UPR kits now.

how about the 60 lbs injectors? one of the guys here was tellin me they were a bad idea with such a smaller charger on it. Said they couldn't be tuned down low enough for my application

 

[bentley429isBAC]

42's would do the trick. Sounds like you shooting for 400-450ish depending how much boost right? Do a bigger intank or a pusher pumper in addition.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Sounds like a good plan, dude.

For throttle body, I'd go with a 75 on that intake, but it will take a little bit of grinding to port match it. For MAF, run a 97mm Abaco. Best meter on the market for many reasons. I have one on my car and it has been great. FYI, it requires 4" intake plumbing.

 

[txstang84]

Yeah, 75mm will take about an hour to mate it up...that's taking your time and blending, it would help get the most out of your combo too. 42s would be enough for what you're doing, I believe. I don't think you'd have *that* hard of a time making it idle or have nice manners down low with 60s, but they're a little much for what you need-hell, I'll be running those for making 500-550rwhp (fingers crossed). I ran 42s with about 10-12psi boost on mine...I had the same heads, and a slightly smaller cam and never had issues feeding it.

 

[GameCock5.0]

I ran 42s with about 10-12psi boost on mine...I had the same heads, and a slightly smaller cam and never had issues feeding it.

How much HP/TQ were you puttin to the wheels on that setup?

 

[txstang84]

Nearest chassis dyno was two hours drive and I just didn't ever go...wasn't really that concerned by numbers. But, I don't believe it was over 400rwhp, and I was perfectly happy with that at the time...I knew damn good and well if I installed better heads and pulley'd it up, I'd make more but didn't feel like risking the block. Best estimate from friends with much faster vehicles varied it anywhere between 360-420, but like I said, I just didn't ever make it to the dyno. Oh-the 10-12psi is because I live in Abilene and our density altitude SUCKS...it can vary so much day to day because of the weather fronts that swoop through. I saw it hit 12 a couple times when high pressure fronts moved through (and I'm here to tell you-you KNOW when you have good air), but more often then not, it was 9-10...regardless it was tons of fun.

This is only my take on it, so feel free to disregard...at the time, I just wanted a mid 11 sec DD...unfortunately, I never made it to the track either. This time I *want* 500-550rwhp with my turbo'd 4.6 swap and whatever times come with it will make me happy.

 

[GameCock5.0]

good deal bro. Did it feel like it was strong enough to run mid 11's?

And i can't wait to hear about how that 4.6 swap ends up for ya. sounds like a pretty sweet set-up.

 

[bentley429isBAC]

Every car is different remember. My car was running out of injector at 492 with a turbo. A1000 pump feeding it. At 400 it ran out of pump with just a 255 in tank, this is when it had a S trim. 42's 255 intank and 255 inline anderson got it to 475 and wasen't on a fine line. This was with a performer, F303, World seniors, S trim at 11-12 psi. Your car should be pretty comparible when completed.

 

[txstang84]

good deal bro. Did it feel like it was strong enough to run mid 11's?

And i can't wait to hear about how that 4.6 swap ends up for ya. sounds like a pretty sweet set-up.

Well, according to three different guys who all had 11 sec or faster vehicles said it was solid 11s, possibly low 11 with new slicks and a good launch.

I can't wait to get the damn thing put together, but I still have a few thousand $ yet to pour into finishing the engine and set up the turbo and fuel system...


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