Made a small timing adjustment, now it won't start.

If I could see how to get the salt and pepper shakers off the plastic bracket that holds them to the intake
The easiest way to remove the salt and pepper shakers is to remove the cover plate on the top of the manifold and carefully pry the plastic bracket clip over the edge. Then push the whole bracket down. It has a U-shaped clip underneath that hooks to the underside of the manifold. Then just tie the shakers and clip up out of the way.

If you're gonna replace the injector O-rings, now would be a good time to clean and rebuild the injectors. I just did mine and I followed this procedure. It was really very easy........

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg


I used this kit and I rubbed a light coat of Vaseline on the O-rings to help them seat.........
 
  • Useful
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


Any source for the under intake crankcase hose? Part# E7ZE-6N664-AA. It's the line that connects the two connectors mounted into the upper intake.

Once it took it out and inspected it, I found cracks.
Just pick up some vacuum line from your local parts store that is the same size. You don't need preformed hoses unless you're concerned about having all OEM concourse pieces.
 
Posting back with more info and symptoms.

We tested the hoses on the upper intake and they held pressure. The cracks I saw were just in the outer surface, I guess. I put new o-rings on all the injectors. I made an error and got a little silicone grease inside one injector. I had very lightly lubed them with it and when I worked the o-ring on it scraped a tiny amount of the grease off the 0-ring and deposited it right in the hole of the injector. Couldn't get it out. If that is the cause of my current symptom, I'll be glad.

Once I got the car back together the big surges I had before were gone, but it will not stay running without me manually giving it gas. I wanted it to warm up enough to do the base idle reset and got tired of being the throttle control. and I removed the connector to the idle valve on the throttle body. It held it's own idle then. However, it sounds and feels like it's not running on all cylinders. I would have though the dab of grease would have been forced out by now after running it so long and reving it.

Another test I did was to pull the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. i didn''t hear any difference in how the engine ran. I thought it would change slightly.

Chasing these changing symptoms is getting tiring. Is it possible that I am dropping a cylinder because that injector needs to be properly cleaned?

Thanks for the continued help.
 
Not sure which is misfiring. I am pretty sure I know which one I got grease in. I'm hesitant to pull the plugs on the driver's side. One of the middle 2 was hell to get in properly. I believe the heads are aluminum and I think someone messed up the threads. It took me close to 40 minutes to get a new one it and not feel like it might be cross threaded. I wasn't going to use a socket wrench on it until I could get it in a decent amount by hand or holding only the center part of the wrench. Could I have " straightened " out the threads getting it in correctly? I hope so. I was never more happy that when it started snugging up after a bunch of rotations. I didn't super torque it down either. Just tight enough.

I'd feel more confident in just replacing a few injectors than pulling that plug out. Yes, someday it will need to be changed. I hope not any time soon.

I did try listening to the sound of the exhaust at the back, but because he has a cross over pipe between the two exhaust pipes, it may combine the sounds. I couldn't tell if one was popping more than the other side.

I suppose I could pull one injector at a time and see if they all squirt the same.
 
Last edited: