Made a small timing adjustment, now it won't start.

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The idle surge thread deals with that, it basically is a systems check for surging, high idle and stalling issues,
It was put together by Jrichker with help from other knowledgeable members to diagnose ill running efi fords with the eec iv computers.
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And for the record: It's not about the surge. It's about ensuring all the pieces and parts are working correctly and that there are no leaks or damaged components.

If those things are all true then you can [not] have a surge problem. The surge is just a symptom that something is wrong, leaking, broken, loose, or out of range.
I found the fuel pressure regulator is bad. Fuel comes out the port for the vacuum hose. I'll swap that out and see how it runs.

How do the salt and pepper shakers come off the intake? The cables are in the way of the 3rd nut on the fuel regulator.
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They are attached to the upper intake with a big plastic retainer that clips on, remove the bolt cover, reach under the two connectors and pull the bottom of the retainer out and the top unhooks when you pull up.
Most of the time the plastic retainer breaks so be careful.
I'm not sure but I think in cold start up it has a set of perimeters the computer uses.
Lets ask a few questions since this is a transplant.
Are all the factory grounds in place?
there are several that are very important, one in the injector harness, two computer grounds, and one that grounds the engine to the firewall, the locations can be found in the 'surging idle checklist'. Is the ACT sensor present? Is the engine temp sensor present? It is located on the heater tube that runs down the passenger side of the intake.
How is the fuel system configured?
Maybe a pic of the engine compartment would help.
Any one ground will cause issues. It's not a fun rat race wire chase but I'm betting it's going to be your issue.
Is there a slick , make it your self , tool to get the back allen screw out and back in? I don't see any way to start that hard to touch one by hand, and when taking it out, I don't want to drop it in the valley the fuel rail goes down. I'm thinking that a 4mm ratching wrench of some sort and a stub of a 4mm allen wrench in it would work. The only single wrench I've found for 4mm is this one.

Amazon product

I don't see how that tool would be able to get in that space. A simple 90 degree Allen wrench needs to be cut down a bit, to have room, to be removed and reinserted for each turn. Getting the screw to be started and tightened again would be another trial.
I got one of these to get the screws out.

Amazon product

It worked great. Getting that back screw in has been a problem. The tool is too thick to be able to angle a bit to get the screw started and unless there is some tension, will not ratchet. I even glued some thread on the tip of the screw and carefully pulled the thread through the bracket and the hole in the new regulator to hold it in place while trying to get the screw started. No luck.

If I could see how to get the salt and pepper shakers off the plastic bracket that holds them to the intake, I may just remove the intake and pulled the fuel rail off and install the regulator that way! If I remove the rail, do I need a set of new O rings for the injectors?
You should have o-rings on-hand [just in case] along with a small tube of lithium grease. [Super] light coat on the o-rings as you press-fit it all back together.

A small bit of engine oil works just as well.
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