Maf Identification?

[jrp27540]

I have a 1988 LX with a MAF installed. I dont think this is a CA car, so im going to assume it was converted. Im working on getting a tuning chip, but need to identify what the MAF is. There are no brand markings on it other than the harness connector (Ford information). So question one is, should I just go with stock? Im also trying to figure out the size. The larger end connected to the filter is 82 mm in diameter and the end going into the C&L aluminum inlet tube is 73 mm. Im going to guess that I should go with the smaller end size as that is the same length as the sensor inside?

Thanks in advance for the help!!!

 

[RaggedGT]

Stolen from @mikestang63 out of a thread with almost the same name lol
Hope it helps

 

[jrp27540]

Stolen from @mikestang63 out of a thread with almost the same name lol
Hope it helps

.... I saw that post as well but missed this... Been looking to long... Thanks for passing that on to me.

So based off that chart, this would be the 73mm blue tube for the 86-93 mustang. The fuel injectors that in the car are 24 lbs which match the MAF.

 

[5.0specialist]

That looks like a 93' Cobra 70mm MAF sensor, which came from a motor that used 24 pound injectors. Not sure if that matters though. Sorry to get off-topic, but if I were you, I'll reinstall the factory fan shroud if you are going to keep that clutch fan. The shroud helps to direct the airflow through where it is supposed to flow for proper cooling. Also, sell that hot-air intake filter cone. Go with the factory air box setup with a high flow panel filter (without air silencer of course). Your engine and maf will thank you. I've seen pictures of people using the C&L inlet tube like yours and running the factory air box, so I don't think there should be any fitment issues. Back to your question, if you are running 24 pound injectors, then I would keep that factory 93' cobra maf. It looks like you have a mild combo since you are running an Explorer intake manifold, so it should flow enough to support your setup.

 

[jrp27540]

That looks like a 93' Cobra 70mm MAF sensor, which came from a motor that used 24 pound injectors. Not sure if that matters though. Sorry to get off-topic, but if I were you, I'll reinstall the factory fan shroud if you are going to keep that clutch fan. The shroud helps to direct the airflow through where it is supposed to flow for proper cooling. Also, sell that hot-air intake filter cone. Go with the factory air box setup with a high flow panel filter (without air silencer of course). Your engine and maf will thank you. I've seen pictures of people using the C&L inlet tube like yours and running the factory air box, so I don't think there should be any fitment issues.

I thought the same thing about it possibly being a 93 cobra intake, but it measures bigger than 70mm...unless im going about the wrong way of measuring it.

Yep! The fan shroud is on the list... I have the fan shroud sitting next to the car. I hope to get it back on this weekend. I've only had the car for a few weeks so I have a handful of items to do on it. The intake is on the list as well. I like your idea of the factory air box...but its long gone. I was planning to replace the C&L inlet tube with a different CAI that goes all the way out the fender.

Thanks!

 

[5.0specialist]

You're welcome. You can find a factory 86-93' 5.0 mustang airbox on ebay or in the junk yard. They are pretty cheap. My 91' actually had an old beat-up aftermarket cold air intake and I bought a used factory intake system from ebay as well as a ford motorsport panel filter. Much cheaper than an aftermarket cold air intake and it does the same job (does it better in my opinion). Are you measuring the inside diameter of the maf?

 

[jrp27540]

I thought the same thing about it possibly being a 93 cobra intake, but it measures bigger than 70mm...unless im going about the wrong way of measuring it.

Yep! The fan shroud is on the list... I have the fan shroud sitting next to the car. I hope to get it back on this weekend. I've only had the car for a few weeks so I have a handful of items to do on it. The intake is on the list as well. I like your idea of the factory air box...but its long gone. I was planning to replace the C&L inlet tube with a different CAI that goes all the way out the fender.

Thanks!

You're welcome. You can find a factory 86-93' 5.0 mustang airbox on ebay or in the junk yard. They are pretty cheap. My 91' actually had an old beat-up aftermarket cold air intake and I bought a used factory intake system from ebay as well as a ford motorsport panel filter. Much cheaper than an aftermarket cold air intake and it does the same job (does it better in my opinion). Are you measuring the inside diameter of the maf?

Ill have to take a look out there. Anything to make the car run better on a budget is a happy path at this point

Yes, I am measuring the inside diameter. The MAF has a smaller end and a bigger end. As the air flows into the car the MAF gets smaller diameter gets smaller. The side that connects to the air filter inner diameter is 82mm. The side that connects to the inlet tube inner diameter is 73mm.

 

[5.0specialist]

After closer inspection, the sensor itself came from the factory 55mm maf and they inserted onto what looks to be a factor 70 mm 93' cobra maf housing. It is not good to have the sensor that is designed for a certain maf size to be used on another maf with a different size. What color are your fuel injectors?

 

[jrp27540]

After closer inspection, the sensor itself came from the factory 55mm maf and they inserted onto what looks to be a factor 70 mm 93' cobra maf housing. It is not good to have the sensor that is designed for a certain maf size to be used on another maf with a different size. What color are your fuel injectors?

The fuel injectors are gray Siemens Deka 24# injectors.

 

[5.0specialist]

Ill have to take a look out there. Anything to make the car run better on a budget is a happy path at this point

Yes, I am measuring the inside diameter. The MAF has a smaller end and a bigger end. As the air flows into the car the MAF gets smaller diameter gets smaller. The side that connects to the air filter inner diameter is 82mm. The side that connects to the inlet tube inner diameter is 73mm.

That's weird. The sensor doesn't look ported to me. I wonder what ford vehicle it came from.

 

[jrp27540]

That's weird. The sensor doesn't look ported to me. I wonder what ford vehicle it came from.

Could have came from a Ford Explorer. The Upper and Lower intake came from an explorer...so the MAF could have came along for the ride possibly...?

 

[5.0specialist]

The fuel injectors are gray Siemens Deka 24# injectors.

You are using the wrong sensor then. Here is a thread that I think you'll find helpful: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/70mm-cobra-maf-help.739181/

 

[jrp27540]

You are using the wrong sensor then. Here is a thread that I think you'll find helpful: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/70mm-cobra-maf-help.739181/

Thanks! Ill give it a look. This all started due to the car running rich. Sucker stinks to high heaven when running. I have a feeling there are a handful of compounding issues causing it to run rich, one being a possible bad o2 harness or fried ECU. I cant get the code in koeo... but not koer. Been reading this thread and it matches my issues. The odd thing is that the car is an original 5 speed with the correct AL9 ECU but the o2 harness appears to be from an auto. Anyway...I have my work cut out for me... But hey...wouldn't be fun if there wasn't a mystery to solve or something new to learn!

Thanks again for the help!

 

[5.0specialist]

Could have came from a Ford Explorer. The Upper and Lower intake came from an explorer...so the MAF could have came along for the ride possibly...?

The explorer maf has a flange on the inlet like the stock 94-95' 5.0 mustangs.

 

[5.0specialist]

Thanks! Ill give it a look. This all started due to the car running rich. Sucker stinks to high heaven when running. I have a feeling there are a handful of compounding issues causing it to run rich, one being a possible bad o2 harness or fried ECU. I cant get the code in koeo... but not koer. Been reading this thread and it matches my issues. The odd thing is that the car is an original 5 speed with the correct AL9 ECU but the o2 harness appears to be from an auto. Anyway...I have my work cut out for me... But hey...wouldn't be fun if there wasn't a mystery to solve or something new to learn!

Thanks again for the help!

You're welcome! Having to solve a problem is all part of this interesting learning experience. Good luck!

 

[jrichker]

Did you get a code 67 when you dumped the codes? That would explain why you can't get the engine running codes to dump.


Code 67 –
Revised 2 Nov 2012 to add definition of the NSS functions for both 5 speed and auto transmissions

Cause of problem:
clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine Running tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

 

[mikestang63]

the sensor is a stock fox body MAF from 90-93, hence the 55 in the serial #. Go check the EEC, if it is A9l or A9P then the car is setup for 19# injectors, If it is X3Z then 24#. See if you have a chip attached to the EEC. What color are the injectors? What raggedGT provided applies to C&L MAF's and you have a factory Ford unit.

Also, get rid of the MAF attached cone filter and put back the stock or Aftermarket CAI.You are sucking in hot engine air.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yup, stock 91-93 MAF, 55mm.

Bigger problem I see is you are running a breather on the valve cover, and don't have the TB vent hose hooked up to the valve cover.

Remove the breather, install a standard cap, and connect to the TB vent to the vac line on the cover. Also, see if oyu can relocated the air filter to the fender

 

[mikestang63]

Yup, stock 91-93 MAF, 55mm.

Bigger problem I see is you are running a breather on the valve cover, and don't have the TB vent hose hooked up to the valve cover.

Remove the breather, install a standard cap, and connect to the TB vent to the vac line on the cover. Also, see if oyu can relocated the air filter to the fender

well since we are picking the car apart.............lol.. serious... you also need to install a fan shroud.

 

[General karthief]

I reread the entire post. My obsevations, if you get no codes, meaning computer is not giving you anything, I would replace it with a known good one and see if you can dump the codes.. that computer is suspect do to the back is open. Get your vacuum line from the tb to the valve cover installed.
And replace that damn fan shroud, its really bother'n people!
Why do you think you need it tuned?