Maf Identification?

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

jrichker said:
Did you get a code 67 when you dumped the codes? That would explain why you can't get the engine running codes to dump.

Code 67 –
Revised 2 Nov 2012 to add definition of the NSS functions for both 5 speed and auto transmissions

Cause of problem:
clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine Running tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

Yes, I did get the code 67 during koeo. I know the NSS is disconnected. I have stuck my hand up on top of the tranny multiple times trying to figure out where to plug it in at...but I cant feel the connector. I need to get a little inspection mirror to shin up on top of the tranny to look.

jrichker said:
Did you get a code 67 when you dumped the codes? That would explain why you can't get the engine running codes to dump.

Code 67 –
Revised 2 Nov 2012 to add definition of the NSS functions for both 5 speed and auto transmissions

Cause of problem:
clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine Running tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

Thanks for the info! I did get the 67 error code. I expected it as the NSS is unplugged. I have had a heck of a time trying to find where it goes on the trans. All of the pics I have found shows it at the top front drivers side of the trans. I have felt all around the trans and can't feel anything. This weekend I was planning on bypassing it for now to see if that is the cause. I thought I read somewhere that as long as you have the clutch pushed in, the disconnected NSS is OK. I'm finding out from my research that it's not the case.

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

jrichker said:
Did you get a code 67 when you dumped the codes? That would explain why you can't get the engine running codes to dump.

Code 67 –
Revised 2 Nov 2012 to add definition of the NSS functions for both 5 speed and auto transmissions

Cause of problem:
clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine Running tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

Yes, I did get the code 67 during koeo. I know the NSS is disconnected. I have stuck my hand up on top of the tranny multiple times trying to figure out where to plug it in at...but I cant feel the connector. I need to get a little inspection mirror to shin up on top of the tranny to look.

jrichker said:
Did you get a code 67 when you dumped the codes? That would explain why you can't get the engine running codes to dump.

Code 67 –
Revised 2 Nov 2012 to add definition of the NSS functions for both 5 speed and auto transmissions

Cause of problem:
clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine Running tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

Thanks for the info! I did get the 67 error code. I expected it as the NSS is unplugged. I have had a heck of a time trying to find where it goes on the trans. All of the pics I have found shows it at the top front drivers side of the trans. I have felt all around the trans and can't feel anything. This weekend I was planning on bypassing it for now to see if that is the cause. I thought I read somewhere that as long as you have the clutch pushed in, the disconnected NSS is OK. I'm finding out from my research that it's not the case.

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

mikestang63 said:
the sensor is a stock fox body MAF from 90-93, hence the 55 in the serial #. Go check the EEC, if it is A9l or A9P then the car is setup for 19# injectors, If it is X3Z then 24#. See if you have a chip attached to the EEC. What color are the injectors? What raggedGT provided applies to C&L MAF's and you have a factory Ford unit.

Also, get rid of the MAF attached cone filter and put back the stock or Aftermarket CAI.You are sucking in hot engine air.

The EEC is a A9L for standard car, which this one is. There is no tuning chip on the EEC. I am currently in the works of getting all the needed info off the car to get one ordered(my goal for identifying the MAF make/size). The injectors are gray, 24# Siemens Deka. I'm in the processes of replacing the cone filter with a different CAI. Thanks!

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

I am working on resolving this issues as well. I had to order a different cap that was made for enclosed case that had a spot for me to connect the vac line from the TB. The aftermarket valve covers on it now didn't work like the stock ones do. No place to connect the vac line so I had to find a oil cap that provided a way. Thanks!!!

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

mikestang63 said:
well since we are picking the car apart.............lol.. serious... you also need to install a fan shroud.

Lol, ya that's on my list for this weekend

Thanks!

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

karthief said:
I reread the entire post. My obsevations, if you get no codes, meaning computer is not giving you anything, I would replace it with a known good one and see if you can dump the codes.. that computer is suspect do to the back is open. Get your vacuum line from the tb to the valve cover installed.
And replace that damn fan shroud, its really bother'n people!
Why do you think you need it tuned?

Yes...I keep getting responses on the fan shroud. I'm fixing it this weekend. I think it needs tuned because the car is running rich; it smells so strong when I drive it. With all mods on it(and issues) I know it's all compounded and causing the issue. My plan is to get everything hooked back up appropriately, get all the vac lines hooked back up right, make sure the o2 sensors are working then get a tune chip for it. Thanks!

mikestang63 · Oct 18, 2016

its running rich because your O2 sensors are bad and you have a vacuum leak with the open breather element. Fix those two and see what happens

jrp27540 · Oct 18, 2016

mikestang63 said:
its running rich because your O2 sensors are bad and you have a vacuum leak with the open breather element. Fix those two and see what happens

Thanks! Totally agree. I have that on my list, but before I started throwing parts at it, I want to comb it over well and find all possible issues that needed fixed then work down the list. Thanks to everyone's help, I have a solid list to start on.

RaggedGT · Oct 18, 2016

mikestang63 said:
the sensor is a stock fox body MAF from 90-93, hence the 55 in the serial #. Go check the EEC, if it is A9l or A9P then the car is setup for 19# injectors, If it is X3Z then 24#. See if you have a chip attached to the EEC. What color are the injectors? What raggedGT provided applies to C&L MAF's and you have a factory Ford unit.

Also, get rid of the MAF attached cone filter and put back the stock or Aftermarket CAI.You are sucking in hot engine air.

Oops my fault, I saw your chart and didn't know it was c & l specific.. I'll stop stealing your things now
lol

vristang · Oct 19, 2016

a ton of chaos in this thread, so first things first... Your MAF sensor and MAF housing are mismatched. It doesn't matter what injectors you have, it those 2 parts won't work together. I wouldn't even run that combo if I had a tuning chip, but that is the only way it could be done.
The sensor is from a Fox body 55mm housing (standard stock parts), and the housing does look to be from a 93 cobra, but a few other vehicles used it as well, IIRC.
The C&L chart was posted, but it has nothing to do with your combo, as that is a stock Ford housing.
You won't likely get any codes from the MAF sensor/housing mismatch. However, with the housing/sensor mismatch and the 24lb injectors, your ecu is going to be pretty confused.

there are 3 options, unless you want to get a tuning chip...
1. Buy a C&L Housing (tell them your ecu, sensor part number, and injector combo)
2. Buy a stock 94-95 Mustang MAF sensor (F2VF-* part number), and switch to 19Lb injectors
3. switch back to stock 55mm housing and 19lb injectors

The open breather will cause issues as well.

Some more reading for you, if you are interested...
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,21309.msg202794.html#msg202794
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,32539.0.html
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,4177.0.html

mikestang63 · Oct 19, 2016

The car is not going to run optimal with the mismatched injectors and MAF. The EEC is programmed for 19# injectors. The MAF sensor is calibrated also for the EEC and 19# injectors. Swapping the sensor from a 55 to 70MM housing will cause the car to run lean as the sensor measures airflow and the larger diameter housing will throw the reading off. Your computer MAY be able to try and adjust for the mismatched parts but I assure you that the 24# injectors are part of the problem- causing the car to run rich, so you have the MAF tellingthe EEC one thing and the injectors dumping too much fuel. I am dumbing this down a bit as I dont think you need to get bogged down in the technical aspect here.

Here is what you can do

Swap back in 19# injectors and
swap back in a stock 90-93 MAF and housing or find a 94-95 MAF and housing - both are calibrated to 19# injectors

OR

Find a Cobra EEC and matching Cobra MAF sensor or
get a tune to fix your mismatched parts.

But I doubt you need 24# injectors unless somehow your motor is making over 275hp..

Mustang5L5 · Oct 19, 2016

Damn. Missed that one. Stock electronics on a different meter.

This is an oem 55mm MAF

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5.0specialist · Oct 21, 2016

Mustang5L5 said:
Damn. Missed that one. Stock electronics on a different meter.

This is an oem 55mm MAF

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Very small. lol I'm actually running a 95' mustang gt 70mm maf. The screen that came with it was busted, so I actually took the screen out of the stock one and glued it into the 70 mm maf with RTV. Fit's very nicely into the outer edge of the narrowing inlet.

Maf Identification?

jrp27540

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jrp27540

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jrp27540

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jrp27540

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jrp27540

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mikestang63

jrp27540

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RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

vristang

mikestang63

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

5.0specialist

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Maf Identification?

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Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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