Magical Disappearing Brakes - 92 Mustang

BTW, dealers have used a multi-quart Diaphragm-Type Pressure Bleeder Tanks for ~15+ years. That alone should say something.

As for ***hats like the one in the video, many local mechanics do many things half-*ssed and very dangerously. Just because they don't get killed immediately and their customers don't die immediately from the BS repairs, that does NOT mean that it's the right way to do things.

I always think back of the local mechanic that was in his late 40's, had a wife and kids, and was working late by himself. From the scene in the morning and police reports, it seems that the mechanic used a prybar to remove a rear spring. The spring sprung out, took a bad/deadly path, hit the mechanic in the head, and he likely died shortly after the blow.

I remember that incident EVERY time I read about some idiot suggesting using clamps or a prybar on the front springs. Yea, the local mechanics, that likely didn't even graduate high school, may do that. But, that does NOT mean that it's a correct or SAFE way to do things.


I often wonder if everyone else in the world does some simpleton job that any moron can learn how to do perfectly with only a day or two of training. Wow, and some of those people make very good money! I must be doing something wrong!

Or maybe, just maybe, "many people" are so foolish that they think that know as much as someone that took 5 years of Mechanical Engineering, has over a dozen years of professional experience, and has the use and experience using million dollars worth of software and hardware and support personnel.


In other words, you have some choices:
o Listen to the high school drop-out local mechanic
o Listen to the BS often on forums and on the web
OR
o Do what the ASE dealer mechanics do (as suggested by the engineers that designed the cars).
o Do what the factory manual says and as suggested by the engineers that designed the cars.
(Yes, factory manuals do have typos and mistakes. It's called living in the real world.)
 
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To be blunt, you did a bad/poor job bleeding brakes - period.

I will admit that it's near impossible to find the correct method to bleed brakes. An example is that video. Reverse bleeding is BS. Still, it's better than the very foolish method of vacuum bleeding.


Before you go claiming "I found out something NEW", think for a while.
o Ford produced MILLIONS of cars with those calipers EACH YEAR.
o After ~7 years of being made, there were additional MILLIONS replaced EACH YEAR by dealers and mechanics.

The problem of having a slight/small air bubble in the top of calipers is well known. That's why people will suggest tapping the calipers while bleeding if the pedal is still a a little soft after bleeding.

From your problems, you had a large amount of air in the calipers. Again, don't forget, these forums have been around for 10+ years, and replacing calipers is super common.

My guess is that you were "penny wise and pound foolish" in bleeding the brakes. How many pints per wheel did you use. My guess is that you used less than a pint for all four wheels. Yea, save ~$10, and have dangerous/sub-standard brakes.

Also, you never mentioned "what pressure bleeder you have and how you used it". My pressure bleeder costs ~$250+. And, I go through at least TWO to FOUR+ quarts for all for 4 wheels. I bleed at least a pint from each wheel per time (cycle around the vehicle).

I am sorry that you had to go through all of that time and money because, as far as I know, there isn't a good detailed reference for the proper/correct way to bleed brakes.


Best I can say is:
o Use a multi-quart Diaphragm-Type Brake pressure Bleeder.
o Bleed at least one pint per wheel, and do that 2+ times.

Here is the new model:
http://www.kd-tools.com/KD_BrakeBleeder_Flier.pdf
KDT3795 - Google Search
KDT3795.jpg




Here is the previous model - the one that I have and have used a lot (I fully bleed the brakes of my 3 cars each year):
7-Qt. Diaphragm-Type Brake Bleeder Tank.
Tank has 10 1/2in. hose with quick-coupler and shutoff valve. Relief valve prevents damage from excess pressure. For standard and power brake systems. Ship Wt. 25.0 lbs
Item# 158057 Sold Out | Northern Tool + Equipment
158057_lg.gif


Picture of my pressure bleeder, and the universal adapter plate.
KD_Bleeder_2222.jpg

to be blunt, Thanks for you bs post DICK!

and as you know, if you read any of this thread, you would know that I DID pressure bleed it, numerous time, and I DID use one of your fancy and expensive diaphragm style bleeders. also, I used over 2 GALLONS of fluid during the process. and also, if this is such a common problem, then why didn't nobody suggest the solution to the issue for three damn pages.... you're obviously here to help people I guess :bs: since your so quick to try and call me a dumbass.... when you, again, didn't read the thread. and please, if you did, please direct me to the post where I claimed to have "found something NEW".The problem wasn't just replacing the calipers, but the poor design of the bleeder not being the highest point of the unit itself.

And finally, I don't want it to be stickied or used as a reference b/c I apparently "don't know how to bleed a system", but because it explains various troubleshooting techniques it diagnosing a problem with a brake system. So, in closing.... :Zip2: next time you post in about a topic in a thread as lengthy and detailed as this one has been, how about you read through the post and find out what exactly has been done b4 you jump to conclusions that you know all and everybody else knows nothing..... nothing you posted was new information that was not already covered. its people like you that give mustang owners and bad name, and make people like me think its not worth it to ask others for help. Have a nice day.

--Ryan