Magneticas' Build Process

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I made a trip to home depot and bought some 1.5 inch aluminum stock. Cut it down to 12 inches, wet sanded with 2000 grit, polished with white diamond metal polish, laid my graphic, put on two sides tape, and covered up the holes on the gt strut tower brace.

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I think it turned out pretty good.

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Nice touch!
 
Found out some info for 2019 ecoboosts. The recirculation valve is bigger in diameter so Steeda BOV adapter part # 555-3215 will not fit.

Guess I'll contact LMR and let them know. Smh...

This is one of those bad days for me...thought I'd come home and put a smile on my face after work....

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...but in a lil'while I wont be able to feel my face. Cheers folks.

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Steeda is trying to tell me that this part...

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....will fit inside this part....

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They said their Ford contact says the recirculation valve is the same part from 15 to 19. Guess they machined this one bad then.

I could have it machined...but LMR or Steeda need to get this straight before they sell more people bad parts. I have faith in LMR. I'm sure they'll get to the bottom of this.
 
LMR is fantastic and offered to refund my money. I opted to have my machinist open it up a little so it will fit. Steeda says they are all machined to 1.200...and it should fit. I'm going with my first statement that the BOV changed in 19 and is now bigger ( proven by my measurements ). The 19 puts out more power and has a few upgrades...I think this includes the BOV. The bolt pattern is the same and the adapter fits in the intake tube but the BOV will not go in the adapter.

If you have a 19 don't buy until you measure your recirculation valve. Would be great if someone else with a 19 ecoboost could measure and post here.
 
I wish I had more pics but I was in a zone and forgot to take some.

I opened up the adapter for the recirculation valve. Using a paint pen and painting the inside it was slowly opened up. Found that a mountain dew bottle cap measured almost exactly to the factory recirculation valve. The bottom of the cab by the break off ring was the perfect size. Using that and the paint as a guide I made a perfect fit after about 2 hours. Smh

This was my tool kit...

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The recirculation valve is in a tight spot. This 5mm hex swivel made it easy for removal and install. I didn't have to remove anything else or unplug the sensor. ( the factory has tape wrapped around it that would have to be torn to unplug it ). My car is new so....ah...no.

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I've got to say this thing sounds amazing. The car finally sounds like a turbo car. No check engine light...and no drivability issues. My car is auto and this thing still sounds great. Ford programmed the valve to open or fluctuate between gears when light on the happy pedal. When more pressure on the pedal boost holds and the valve doesn't open until let off.

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Was going to have a friend machine it but it wasn't needed. It's just like porting an aluminum head. Coat with paint or dye. Evenly remove paint....check....coat....grind...check....coat....grind...etc.

I drink too much maintain dew....but luckily I do the dew...

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Steeda has been in contact with me just about every day. Those guys really are trying to get to the bottom of this issue. Today they got my vin number and I gave them the measurement that I opened the adapter up to.

Apparently, the parts department is using the same recirculation valve from 15 to 19. Here's a pic of mine in case anyone can chime in with a pic of theirs and the year of the car.

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Steeda has responded again ( great guys over there ). They are going to open up the adapter a bit so it'll fit all model years. The part number on my recirculation valve doesn't exist yet in the Ford parts bin. The depth is the same and the sealing o rings are the same. Just needed a little more machining.

The guys at Steeda have really been great. LMR has also been top notch through this process.
 
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Um....the line lock on my ecoboost works....

It works really really good....both tires....

Nothing like smoking the factory tires up.
 
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Been a while. How's everyone doin' ?

Anyways, I sold my van Poppa Smurf and have decided to install the 1200 watt amp and 12" subs in the car. Best Buy will match Amazon pricing for Amazon shipped items. Saved me about 150 bucks on install stuff.

The biggest issue I see is the fact that our cars play the engine noises through the speakers and they also have a noise cancelling feature that wreaks havoc on sub installs. I've found several ways to correct this but haven't gotten that far yet.

The most common is to unplug the microphone under the headliner. There's also one that details depinning a couple wires at a module located behind the left kick panel.

We'll see how this works out over the next couple days.

If you have a sub installed in your s550 any advise would be a huge help.
 
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Haha...so they also price match walmart online prices...got 74 bucks off my Kicker install kit.

Anyone that knows me knows I hate hacking up factory stuff. All the videos on YT talk about poking a hole in a big wiring harness grommet on the passenger side....behind the wheel well liner..... Hell naw, man !!!

I found this pretty little grommet on the firewall. Guess its for when we all start swapping big blocks into our cars 'cause it goes right to the back of the throttle pedal assembly. Lucky for us there is enough room to run a power wire behind it without unbolting the pedal.

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Staying true to my reputation I removed the plastic factory grommet and found a rubber one that fit perfect in my parts bin.

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I cut a small hole in that thing and ran the cable through it. Then i cut the wire at the battery power post end with enough to tuck the fuse box down right in front of the battery. Used one insulated cable hanger on an existing stud with a little round push on holder. ( factory ). Also, used some heat shrink from a kit i bought from harbor freight.

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I used some split fabric style wire wrap that i bought from oreilys for my turbo fox to cover about 10 inches going to the grommet.

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Once inside the car i didnt have to remove a single panel. They all flex enough for the cable to squeeze underneath them. The hardest one was getting the cable behind the seat belt anchor ond under the plastic....but it went without a hitch.

Tomorrow I'll cover the wire with some fabric type covering stuff and zip tie it to the attaching point for an existing harness.

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This is where the wire sits at the bottom of the rear seat. I'll get that completely ran tomorrow.

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Very easy and clean install. Im happy so far.
 
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