Making the Stang handle better

40th GT · Jul 3, 2005

My car has way too much body roll in the corners and I want to start out by changing out the shocks/springs/struts. I was looking at the H&R SS/Bilstein combo and was wondering how they are as far as handling goes. Any of you with aftermarket springs/shocks wanna drop a comment?

BTW, I ruled out the Bullitt kit b/c the drop is not enough; I want something between 1.5-1.75".

arkansas mystic · Jul 4, 2005

I dont have suspension yet, but am fixing to do it and have done quite a bit of research. the kit you asked about is one of the most common. do a search and you should find several forums that discus difrent kits and how they ride/drop measurements.

SRT Handz · Jul 4, 2005

Eibach Sportlines
Tockico 5 way adjustable sport shocks
Front and Rear sway bars

they you will handle

tomustang · Jul 4, 2005

SRT Handz said:
Eibach Sportlines
Tockico 5 way adjustable sport shocks
Front and Rear sway bars

they you will handle

errrrr, wrong.

Your three best handling parts are subframes, Panhard Bar, Cobra Sway Bar. Besides taking the Cobra IRS swap.

I suggest buying springs, shocks/struts, and a cobra sway bar to start off.

ak_sn8k01 · Jul 4, 2005

weld in the subframe connectors

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension2.htm#Chassis

JohnyD05 · Jul 4, 2005

Suspension

I am very close to buying a suspension, I am looking at

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=134
Stage 1,2,3 about a thousand bucks
also
maximum motorsports starter box
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/giab.asp
its about a thousand too... but you don't see to get as much
the stang suspension uses steeda springs which are 650 linear springs in the front and 200-250 progressive springs in the rear.
the MM uses like HR race springs wihch are like 850 front and the rears are pretty stiff.

has anyone had any experience with either of these?!

QUICK91LX · Jul 4, 2005

you wanna handle? read my sig

only downfall is the coilovers can produce a rough ride. a good spring/shock setup will work just as well and ride better

JohnyD05 · Jul 4, 2005

If you don't mind me asking what does a setup like that run you?

300bhp/ton · Jul 4, 2005

40th GT said:
My car has way too much body roll in the corners and I want to start out by changing out the shocks/springs/struts. I was looking at the H&R SS/Bilstein combo and was wondering how they are as far as handling goes. Any of you with aftermarket springs/shocks wanna drop a comment?

BTW, I ruled out the Bullitt kit b/c the drop is not enough; I want something between 1.5-1.75".

DO YOU WANT IT TO HANDLE BETTER?

Or mearly look like it MIGHT handle better.

Running oversized alloys and slamming the car to the deck is NOT they way to make any car handle.

IRS ultimatley should be the best option, but live rears can be made to behave. Ride quality and refinment will never be strong suits though.

If your not serious about this then don't look any further.

The best setup I've seen is the tri-link setup using a Watts linkage from Evolution Motorsport (do a sear with google you'll find them).

Add the braces, anti roll bars and matched shocks/springs and you will have a very capable car.

Simply slamming the ride hight down leaving overstiff shocks with poorly calibrated shocks and no suspension travel is POINTLESS.

Even high end supercars like Ferrari's don't have slammed suspension like that - BECAUSE IT DOESN'T WORK ON THE ROAD.

The suspension is there for a reason and should allow movement else its just not doing its job.

DBMSTNG · Jul 4, 2005

a good set of shocks/stuts and springs will greatly reduce body roll. add sway bars, a stut tower brace, and subframes and you'll be on your way.

40th GT · Jul 4, 2005

300bhp/ton said:
DO YOU WANT IT TO HANDLE BETTER?

Or mearly look like it MIGHT handle better.

Running oversized alloys and slamming the car to the deck is NOT they way to make any car handle.

IRS ultimatley should be the best option, but live rears can be made to behave. Ride quality and refinment will never be strong suits though.

If your not serious about this then don't look any further.

The best setup I've seen is the tri-link setup using a Watts linkage from Evolution Motorsport (do a sear with google you'll find them).

Add the braces, anti roll bars and matched shocks/springs and you will have a very capable car.

Simply slamming the ride hight down leaving overstiff shocks with poorly calibrated shocks and no suspension travel is POINTLESS.

Even high end supercars like Ferrari's don't have slammed suspension like that - BECAUSE IT DOESN'T WORK ON THE ROAD.

The suspension is there for a reason and should allow movement else its just not doing its job.

I do want it to handle better but I always thought lower=less body roll, so better handling. I know slamming it isn't the way to go but I just think Mustangs have to be lowered that much since they're so high from the factory.
I may just stick to a 1.5" drop because I don't wanna be scraping.

YardSpecial · Jul 4, 2005

I went H&R SS springs
MM panard bar, CC plates, Tokico D Spec shocks/struts

On my 2002 Vert, she handles sweet......

DerekStangGT · Jul 4, 2005

tomustang said:
errrrr, wrong.

Your three best handling parts are subframes, Panhard Bar, Cobra Sway Bar. Besides taking the Cobra IRS swap.

I suggest buying springs, shocks/struts, and a cobra sway bar to start off.

listen to this guy, he knows what he's talking about, plus he was to mustangs ( )

my suspension mods are in "my garage". my stang handles head and shoulders better than a stock stang. VERY noticeable difference. ive heard the MM panhard bar is one of the best things you can do to a solid rear. im currently trying to save for panhard bar and the tq arm from MM

DBMSTNG · Jul 4, 2005

40th GT said:
I do want it to handle better but I always thought lower=less body roll, so better handling. I know slamming it isn't the way to go but I just think Mustangs have to be lowered that much since they're so high from the factory.
I may just stick to a 1.5" drop because I don't wanna be scraping.

being lower does help, so long as the correct springs and shocks are used. you just need to be caerful to leave enough suspension travel.

NewEngPatsFan · Jul 4, 2005

I have the MM panhard bar, and it made a huge difference...and I still have the stock springs.

QUICK91LX · Jul 4, 2005

let me tell you what that MM panhard bar really helps to plant the rear...my car can outcorner the tires that are on it...damn continentals

DerekStangGT · Jul 4, 2005

QUICK91LX said:
lmy car can outcorner the tires that are on it

what does that mean?
would you mind explaining the the panhard bar some more? im really close to buying one. how hard was install? does your car have a tendancy to understeer now? as much as you can tell me is great!

EDIT: can you also analyze your K-Member brace too please? $100 isnt bad if you can tell a difference in stiffness. how do you like yours?

COBRA90GT · Jul 4, 2005

Make sure you get some full-length (welded) subframe connectors at some point.

FWIW, here's a helpful overview of the 'stang suspension:

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

ScottyG00GT · Jul 5, 2005

I second the weld-in subframes. They are the only handling mod I have so far (unless you count my tires). They made a huge difference and protect the integrity of the car for the long haul. At 71k miles my car has no squeaks/rattles.

If you're not building anything other than a fun street car and you're not going to beat on it all the time, quality regular subframes do the trick (e.g. Kenny Brown like mine) - full-length are great for something more serious but will reduce your ground clearance a bit if you're into slamming . . .

DerekStangGT · Jul 5, 2005

ScottyG00GT said:
I second the weld-in subframes. They are the only handling mod I have so far (unless you count my tires). They made a huge difference and protect the integrity of the car for the long haul. At 71k miles my car has no squeaks/rattles.

If you're not building anything other than a fun street car and you're not going to beat on it all the time, quality regular subframes do the trick (e.g. Kenny Brown like mine) - full-length are great for something more serious but will reduce your ground clearance a bit if you're into slamming . . .

i have full lenth subs and a slammed whip, and my subframes are the LAST thing to scrape in order of scrappage it goes: dumps, swaybar, G-Trac bar, LCAs, then subframes.

Making the Stang handle better

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