Progress Thread Manoahs 75 Fauxbra build

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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side note, is there really only two bolts holding the transmission to that crossmember.

Assuming you're talking about the stock pieces: yes, 2 long bolts through the cross member holding that to the body, 2 bolts holding the mount to the transmission, and 2 studs from the mount and through the crossmember holding the transmission down. The long bolts are really the only ones doing much work in the scheme of things, and that's not really work given that the engineers were counting on their shear strength. While there is torque transmitting through that end of everything, it's minimal compared to the engine mounts, so all that stuff is really doing is holding the transmission end of the assembly in place.
 
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Manoah

I’m about 95% sure that I’m ready to pull it out
Jul 28, 2018
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I’m about 95% sure that I’m ready to pull it out. Maybe get to it this weekend. Had to unbolt the exhaust on the right side just to get at that motor mount.
Picked up some chain the other day, and I was planning on bolting that to the left rear head bolt, and the right front head bolt. Sound about right?
 

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extra_stout

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If you mean with head bolts not the bolts that clamp the heads to the block, but the screw holes on the side where e.g. accessories are installed: yes they can be used. But please check twice if is everything sitting tight (lift it up an inch and wiggle hard on the engine). try to find some large washers that will fit cover the chain. Also think about how you put the chain onto the crane. You need different angles to get the engine/transmission combo as a whole piece out and it's :poo:ty if the chain moves trough the hook of the crane. Engine lift plates that fit onto the intake manifold are often recommended to do this safely.

I only did it once as a combo. And that was when I put the engine with T5 into the Mustang II the first time... it's tight and I didn't like it. Beause of the weight of the C4 it also not so nice to get the tranny out, when the engine stays in the car (ask me how i know). But getting the engine out and leaving the C4 in the car was okay. With the T5 (half the weight of the C4) it's much easier to get it out when the engine stays in.

And get some help! It is much more safe if you have another two hands around.
 
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extra_stout

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First time in... Was not so nice:
whatsapp-image-2018-04-05-at-17-47-28-jpeg.jpg


Second time: engine first than transmission on my DIY transmission lift:
IMG_20181102_102917.jpg

getriebeheber2-jpg.jpg


man... i miss the old shed where I was allowed to park and work on my cars. The owner sold his house. Now I only have a tiny garage... :(
ps: before somebody asks: the shinny fox headers didn't fit. Interwebz was right on that.
 

Manoah

I’m about 95% sure that I’m ready to pull it out
Jul 28, 2018
74
52
28
41
San Diego
First time in... Was not so nice:


Second time: engine first than transmission on my DIY transmission lift:



man... i miss the old shed where I was allowed to park and work on my cars. The owner sold his house. Now I only have a tiny garage... :(
ps: before somebody asks: the shinny fox headers didn't fit. Interwebz was right on that.
Engine lift plate! Couldn’t for the life of me remember what that was called! Also, couldn’t find one. I’ll amazon it today.
 
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IICrew

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I prefer doing it as a package. Including headers. 2nd choice with a manual is having headers, clutch and bellhousing on the engine as it goes in. I connect/disconnect the starter wire when its halfway in/out. Your pic is the angle I set the chain to when bolting to heads. I don't have them but a lift plate and leveler is the preferred method.

I set the car up opposite of you though. I start with the car level up on 4 jackstands. I get everything prepped. Once done underneath I use a floor jack under the front crossmember between the legs of hoist. I raise the front of the car up and lower hoist together (install) or lower the nose and raise hoist (removal). It's probably in my mind but its much easier when doing it as a package. It helps the angles and works alot better for me.
 
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extra_stout

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@IICrew your perhaps right, to get it in or out in one package. Forgot to mention that I have a 74 where the radiator support is closer to the firewall... Even with lightweight T5 manual transmission it is difficult to get it in after the engine without some kind of transmission jack. I did it once with my brother and we needed 2h to get it lifted up under the car in the right spot. With my transmission jack its now a thing of minutes.
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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Similar for me also.
 

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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I've never used a lift plate, I've always used a chain with intake bolts ran through the links and snugged down to the manifold. It's a bit of a chore sometimes but I've always done it that way.

And I've gone both routes, installing everything assembled and installing the engine then the transmission. The latter is definitely the way to go, especially if you're running a manual transmission (stock 4 speed or T5). I'd imagine it'd be the same with a C4, but it'll be a bit more challenging to reach the bell housing bolts vs bolting the manual transmission to the bell housing that's already installed. As far as putting the manual transmission in, I've pretty much always been able to bench press it into place. I couldn't say the same with an automatic. The last one I installed was an AOD in the 84 vert I built, I had to use a jack for that heavy beotch. :shrug: Of course this all applies to the removal of everything as well. You'd think I'd improve the processes as I get older..... :jester:
 

Manoah

I’m about 95% sure that I’m ready to pull it out
Jul 28, 2018
74
52
28
41
San Diego
Got the motor out.
 

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Manoah

I’m about 95% sure that I’m ready to pull it out
Jul 28, 2018
74
52
28
41
San Diego
Motors missing a plug on both sides, hope it’s not junk.
 

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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
708
527
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64
Minnesota
Motors missing a plug on both sides, hope it’s not junk.

Well. As long as the block is not cracked you should be good. That's all I gave the builder. If they're any good they'll magnaflux it and find out for sure. Do not throw anything away until you're done. Then offer them up to others.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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Motors missing a plug on both sides, hope it’s not junk.

It's a possibility that the block is still good. I don't remember if you've said where the car is from or where it's been since you've had it, but if it's been anywhere cold and all that was in the coolant passages was water, those freeze plugs did their job. They're designed to pop out if the coolant were to ever freeze. But as mentioned, if you're planning on rebuilding using this block the machine shop will most likely double check to make sure it's worth using.
 
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IICrew

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Woohoo!!!! Another hurdle jumped!

As said above that's why they are called freeze plugs. Just make sure you check the heater core and radiator as well. If water was in the block it was in them as well. They don't have freeze plugs though.
 
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Manoah

I’m about 95% sure that I’m ready to pull it out
Jul 28, 2018
74
52
28
41
San Diego
Lol, I see what some admin type did there. Changing that line under my pic. That’s pretty good, def opened that door up.
 
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