Many, Mods, and More - The 3 worst friends your car can have.

895.0monterey831

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I currently have an 89 5.0 with a F Cam stock 302 block headers exhaust pulleys Gt40 heads Brand new 24 pound fuel injectors,brand new fuel regulator, brand new upgraded field pump and and street burner intake manifold with 75mm throttle body and 75 c and L maf qnd a custom tune from American muscle!
 
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895.0monterey831

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Jan 8, 2019
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I have a 1989 5.0 stock 302 block with A F Cam GT40 heads exhaust pulleys herders 24 pound fuel injection brand new brand new fuel pressure regulator brand new upgraded fuel pump I have A 75 MM C and MAF And A75MM throttle b ody with a trick flow street burner and take Running 75MM! The problem started when I put the new intake on The check engine light flashes on and off M when it does Flash on the car loses power and the rpm drop but the card does not die and since then my feel pump will not work like maybe there is a short somewhere so that's when I put in the new field pump and it ran good for a little bit, I was wondering if anybody ever had the same issue if I am running too much air to the motor should I be running a Turbo or a supercharger what that in take just looking for opinions I also think it might be the fuel but I also did just buy her a new fuel injectors 24 pound! If anyone could please help I would much appreciate it or even a mechanic I'm located in Monterey California
 

Noobz347

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If I am reading this correctly, it seems as if you've thrown a bunch of parts onto a car without really understanding what each of these parts is for or how it effects the car.

You say you changed heads, cam, throttle body, and meter but said nothing about the calibration of said meter, brand, or anything regarding a tune.

I think what you have now is an engine with a mixed of new and used parts thrown on it. Is that correct?

Who installed these parts? What are they all, exactly?
 
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90sickfox

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I see you have a tune. Do you still have the stock intake or the gt40 intake ?

Pull a spark plug and take a pic and post. These computers are known to have issues after 30 years. Really may have worked out better to get an aftermarket ECU like PimpXS or MegaSquirt PNP2. If you can pull the computer open it up ( a few little screws ) and check the circuit board for burn marks ( pics also help ).

The fuel pump relay could be acting up...its under the drivers seat. Is it an auto or 5 speed ? I ask because people run into problems swapping from auto to stick with o2 harness differences.

Can you pull the codes ? They would be a huge help. There are a bunch of things that could cause your issues. First, pull codes before replacing parts and post here.
 
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895.0monterey831

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Sorry ment to be a little more specific, I put the parts on, the maf sensor came with the c and l tube its is supposed to be calibrated to the my 24 lb injectors, I I have GT40 heads they are not ported, I was running A GT40 explore intake manifold on the car and it ran fine once I switched over to the trick flow street burner intake manifold it opened it to 75mm and that's when I started having issues
 

895.0monterey831

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Jan 8, 2019
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I see you have a tune. Do you still have the stock intake or the gt40 intake ?

Pull a spark plug and take a pic and post. These computers are known to have issues after 30 years. Really may have worked out better to get an aftermarket ECU like PimpXS or MegaSquirt PNP2. If you can pull the computer open it up ( a few little screws ) and check the circuit board for burn marks ( pics also help ).

The fuel pump relay could be acting up...its under the drivers seat. Is it an auto or 5 speed ? I ask because people run into problems swapping from auto to stick with o2 harness differences.

Can you pull the codes ? They would be a huge help. There are a bunch of things that could cause your issues. First, pull codes before replacing parts and post here.
I have the trick flow street burner intake and I bought the custom tune from American muscle I told them my set up and I plugged it into the chip and I bought a new fuel pump relay because I started having issues with fuel pump coming on and off and had my buddy test the inertia switch he said it was getting power, when I start the car it idles good like it's getting a read on the computer but then when I start driving the checking engine light comes on then I lose power but the car doesnt die and it does it so much to were I cant drive the car, do I need to pull the codes if t bought the timer chip? If so I can tomorrow
 

895.0monterey831

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If I am reading this correctly, it seems as if you've thrown a bunch of parts onto a car without really understanding what each of these parts is for or how it effects the car.

You say you changed heads, cam, throttle body, and meter but said nothing about the calibration of said meter, brand, or anything regarding a tune.

I think what you have now is an engine with a mixed of new and used parts thrown on it. Is that correct?

Who installed these parts? What are they all, exactly?
I did get a tune from the American muscle after I put my new trick flows to burner and take on there and I did all the work and part of what you said is true yes at the beginning I didn't know nothing and that was about 3 years ago since then I've had a kid and I'm a single dad in my car's been out of commission for a year since that try putting this new intake on their I've had nothing but issues I would honestly like and try to find a Mustang expert mechanic around my area I live in Monterey cali, thanks bro
 

Noobz347

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I did get a tune from the American muscle after I put my new trick flows to burner and take on there and I did all the work and part of what you said is true yes at the beginning I didn't know nothing and that was about 3 years ago since then I've had a kid and I'm a single dad in my car's been out of commission for a year since that try putting this new intake on their I've had nothing but issues I would honestly like and try to find a Mustang expert mechanic around my area I live in Monterey cali, thanks bro
You are likely going to need a better tune than that. Each and every modification gets farther away from a "canned tune"'s baseline. What I mean is, you told them what your parts were and they modified the tune based on an approximation. They probably also assume that there's no leaks or codes.

You should try finding a dyno-tuner in your area and see what they charge.

The alternative of course, is to get even more cool stuff and tune it yourself (after much trial and error). :D

Most of these guys will probably talk you into the DIY method. If you plan to continue to modify then it probably is the best way to go.

I wouldn't consider either method to be "cheap".
 

895.0monterey831

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You are likely going to need a better tune than that. Each and every modification gets farther away from a "canned tune"'s baseline. What I mean is, you told them what your parts were and they modified the tune based on an approximation. They probably also assume that there's no leaks or codes.

You should try finding a dyno-tuner in your area and see what they charge.

The alternative of course, is to get even more cool stuff and tune it yourself (after much trial and error). :D

Most of these guys will probably talk you into the DIY method. If you plan to continue to modify then it probably is the best way to go.

I wouldn't consider either method to be "cheap".
I'm honestly thinking of just going back to the GT40 intake because when I had that the car was running fine, I just want to enjoy my car again
 

Noobz347

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If the intake was the [one] thing that made everything go south then I would suggest that, that intake is leaking or vacuum lines are misrouted.

If other things were changed in the process, that's harder to diagnose. Honestly, the intake shouldn't make that huge of a difference but I'd be willing to bet that the GT40 makes more power across the RPM range than the TrickFlow. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice intake but it's also pretty big for 302.

Your MAF I think you said is 75mm. Good. Your throttle body would probably perform better as a 65mm but the difference is not enough to worry about. One thing that the larger throttle body will make a little more difficult is tuning for low speed, low RPM on a motor that moves relatively low air volume (in comparison to what a 75mm is capable of). Again though, it's not a huge issue.

Your meter. You have a C&L with the removable tubes? That meter is infamous for Gremlins. Hands down, one of the biggest pains in the ass I've ever seen or heard about. You should really consider a meter with a fixed sample tube and accompanying 30 point transfer function printed out.
 

895.0monterey831

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Yeah I heard bad things about the C and l meters myself I have a stock one I believe I could put on their instead..... The tune i got from American muscle is tune for 24 pound fuel injectors, The fuel pump isn't turning on either all the time I think I might have a short but I have power going to the and enertia switch, Do you think if there was a short some where in the field pump wiring it could cause the check engine light to come on and off and me to lose power when I drive?
 

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Dan02gt

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Yeah I heard bad things about the C and l meters myself I have a stock one I believe I could put on their instead..... The tune i got from American muscle is tune for 24 pound fuel injectors, The fuel pump isn't turning on either all the time I think I might have a short but I have power going to the and enertia switch, Do you think if there was a short some where in the field pump wiring it could cause the check engine light to come on and off and me to lose power when I drive?
I agree with everyone on C&L nothing but problems with them. Also if your tune accounts for the 24s you don't need the meter calibrated for them. Try your stock meter and I bet it runs alot better.
 

Olivethefet

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I had a lot of similar issues with my car when I first got it. The pump would prim some of the time and would not others. I was ruining all over checking everything pulling my hair out! These guys know way more than me for sure, but what my issues ended up being in the end was bad capacitors on the ECM. If you installed the American Muscle chip you have already pulled the ECM out of the passenger side kick panel. If it isn't that hard for you to do again it might be worth your time to pull it out and inspect it. You will have to completely remove it from the car and open the module up and look inside. there are three capacitors on the board. look for leaks and corrosion. In my case two of them had legs that were completely eaten through. I bought all the stuff to do it my self and changes out the capacitors. It's not that hard or expensive, but not a guarantee either. I ended up having to send my unit to Cardone to have it refurbished. Cost about $200, but now everything works fine. There are some vids on youtube of people doing this. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Here is a link to a video.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2kt0qI99N0
 

895.0monterey831

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I just wanted to say thank you to everybody for the help and ended up being my fuel pump connector was bad and corroded and And the small negative wire which is the ground for the computer did not have a good connection to the thunder wall so I think that had and part of it to do but it is running cherry and I am happy thank you guys for all your input
 

kuda6772

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I currently have an 89 5.0 with a F Cam stock 302 block headers exhaust pulleys Gt40 heads Brand new 24 pound fuel injectors,brand new fuel regulator, brand new upgraded field pump and and street burner intake manifold with 75mm throttle body and 75 c and L maf qnd a custom tune from American muscle!
No valve clearance issues?
 
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