Medusa Megasquirt.... help lol

Good to here that its up and running for you. After you get the tune worked out for idle and part throttle then the fun will beginning.
 
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Ok so i took it for a little longer ride on auto tune its not able to go into zero vac i see when i try to lean into throttle,,, i applied the auto tune at a light and she stalled but fired right back up, my mistake i was in gear,,,, i continued to auto tune about another mile and applied again in driveway... i shut off auto tune and tried to fire it up, it would not fire up... i noticed its at 26 degree on hot fire i think i noticed on the dash ,, i'm not sure if 26 is to much for hot start also i noticed i am cruising at 500 degree at egt temp at 39 degree i used to operate it at 38 on a blow through.. n was about 400 degree egt i'm not sure if that is to much timing .... i am posting the tune in it now and the log.... thank you for any feedback........ ive tried messing with alt have not tried change pulley yet i have to locate one
 

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I need datalogs with no autotune in order to trim fuel.
26* cranking is alot however the gray TFI is 'push to start' meaning that if wired correctly (like factory) the tfi gets a 12v cranking trigger that retards the timing to the mechanical offset. Stock is 10*
 
I need datalogs with no autotune in order to trim fuel.
26* cranking is alot however the gray TFI is 'push to start' meaning that if wired correctly (like factory) the tfi gets a 12v cranking trigger that retards the timing to the mechanical offset. Stock is 10*
ok ill go take a ride in a little bit and data log that one. its wired in with factory harness, the pip doesnt do anything except cut spark if i remove
 
yes that is normal, to set the ignition offset correctly you will use a helper to hold the throttle down [this shuts the injectors off] and crank the engine over while you strobe with a timing light, you will set the distributor to 10* this is the mechanical offset. Then you will start the engine and use the trigger wizard with the timing set to fixed in ignition settings to set the software offset in Tuner studio.
 
i did an auto tune last night was a quick little ride... i have to figure out my alt issue,,, always chasing something.... seems phat at idle n looks like 15.1 on cruise ...but im sure auto tune sees that lol

15.1 cruise is what i have set in ur afr targets. So autotunes gonna match the afr targets set up in the chart.. You could fatten it up if unwanted to but id just autotune the ve table to near perfection then just change the afr targets to what u want.. Easier then redoing the ve to get the target to match... Datas lookin good tho. Not seeing any major problems.. Keep it up. Soon we will get some boost cells rollin.. And whats up with ur timing? That should of been set when we did it. Unless u moved it..
 
Ok i went for a ride. i was reading 15.6 - 16 afr when letting off in turns or down hills unless i stay in throttle... makes me think i have an intake issue , this log was a little bit longer... i can not lean into i. im tearing the engine down down /aaron timing... i have not touched the dizzy
 

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ok, well then i wont bother adjusting the tune file at all... your cam swap is going to completely change the tune requirements. Why did you decide to change the cam? and why is this the first i have been informed of an issue at or above 3400?
 
ok, well then i wont bother adjusting the tune file at all... your cam swap is going to completely change the tune requirements. Why did you decide to change the cam? and why is this the first i have been informed of an issue at or above 3400?
i bought the cam and was going to put it in another engine that i was starting to collect parts for. the cam that is in it is a small rv hydrolic flat tap, the new one is a solid roller .... custom ground for boost . the 3400 rpm issue is something i noticed when i lean into it.
 
The issue at 3400 is likely something in the tune, although i have seen another car with a similar issue.. This may dictate some increased tach rejection in the software. Let me know when you are done with the swap, your car with an RV cam should be idling in the 700 range... not the 1k range i see in the datalog.
 
The issue at 3400 is likely something in the tune, although i have seen another car with a similar issue.. This may dictate some increased tach rejection in the software. Let me know when you are done with the swap, your car with an RV cam should be idling in the 700 range... not the 1k range i see in the datalog.
ok it seemed like the idle was to low when i woild back out of it ...it would want to sorta stall. if you think im not going to gain much ill wait on cam change i just have a chance tmrw to tear it down,, i wanted to try to figure out if it was to much ve under boost. im sorry if i seem all over ive been chasing allot of dumb problems
 
the Idle is all in the tune.... and with an RV cam it should be cake..
Its totally up to you if you want to do a cam swap, the swap will net more HP is thats the goal.. you have my # so shoot me a text if you want to talk it over.
 
omg what a nightmare to do this cam change, but it exposed so many issues i had going on,,, found out the pc was for a 94-95 mustang not a 87-93 and it was not firing on all 8 inj and cyld.... anyway new harness and its pinned out correctly. everything is working from what i see as it should..i had to adjust some fuel to drive it home and did a data log ,, i added a little to ve when i got in driveway to enrich a little.. the cam is deff much more aggressive lol so i think it needs more timing... hope to do a live tune soon... just need some time to recoupe lol thnx for reviewing guys ////// Wilky
 

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