Mild 88GT. Which heads for $1k?

[Cutter1024]

Tax return is comming and should have a spare $1k for a set of heads. My car is not a track car, its a street car thats driven everyday. Right now it has the stock 302 with 90k miles, GT40 upper and lower, 3.73's, mac headers, flowmaster exhaust, K&N intake, MSD ignition, MAF conversion, upgraded 5 speed tranny.

It has the stock heads/cam/injectors. I was thinking of doing a GT40p heads, cam, and 24lb injectors for my budget.... Or should I spend all the money i have and just get a set of heads? How much difference are the twisted wedge heads, or AFR 165's compared to a cheaper aluminum head other companys make? Im going to look for a used set to save some money. What about head gaskets, and 1.7 RR's? Should I do all of that right away? What are my options? Lets say $1200 is my top dollar limit, as i can always add a little. Can you guys give me a few options that would be good for me, and what kind of power im looking at?

Thanks a ton!!!

 

[old_blue]

You cant go wrong with a set of afr165 for a mild setup. You should be able to find a set for about that used. Dont forget thumper heads. For $1000 I would think you should be able to get a cam and heads. I wouldnt worry abo0ut injectors as stockers are good for a mild setup.

As far as your question on the cheaper aluminum no brand heads, you get what you pay for. People have had good and bad with pro comp and cheaper brands but you are hit or miss. I have also heard good things about Edelbrock E-streets. $1000 out of the box aluminums. Only bad thing I have heard about is the springs need to be upgraded to use a decent cam.

good luck I am sure others will chime in with more options.

 

[95BlueStallion]

You can get more of a complete package with the P setup, for your budget of $1200. Depends on your long term goals. I went the P route, cause I want to add a vortech in the future and that will get me to my stock block splitting horsepower whether I did P's or aluminum. If you want to run N/A long term, then I would save for aluminum heads, and then buy your combo as funds allow for a strong N/A engine in the end.

 

[Cutter1024]

Thanks. Also wanted to mention if I can get enough power to pull off a 12.99 in the 1/4 with street tires, that would be great!!

Buddy of mine has a VW supercharged that runs 13.2's in the 1/4 and i just CANT have that thing get me.

Eventually, maybe next tax return I would like to put some boost to the motor.... and eventually do something like a 347 in the future. But for now, im looking to get more power then these E7 heads. I beileve thats what is holding me back right now.

 

[95BlueStallion]

P's, a cam, some 1.6 RR's, and your GT40 intake should be enough to break 12's depending on your driving skill. I personally kept the stock cam and went with 1.7 RR's and still felt a huge difference with my Thumper P's and trick flow intake. I havent hit the dyno cause I am going to wait until I go blown.

 

[Cutter1024]

How much of a power difference will there be between the GT40p and a top of the line head like the AFR165 or the Twisted wedge? If i get a GT40p for a good price, I can even do a mild port and polish job since im sure I will have some cash left over.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Twisted Wedge 170s > AFR 165s > GT40Ps

Personally I wouldn't consider any of the heads mentioned except for the TW 170s, BUT no way in hell are you going to be able to do a TW170s (or even the AFRs) for $1200 with all new parts, even if you don't do a cam right now.

Trickflow heads- $1000
Pushrods- $90
Head gaskets- $50
Head Bolts- $50
Roller Rockers- $200 (at least)

...And you can see you've already blown budget. I didn't even include some other stuff, like if you want to get a new set of valve covers, VC gaskets, new fluids, shipping, tax, etc.

Not trying to discourage you, but realize that 1000-1200 bones will pretty much get you the cylinder heads themselves, and nothing else, haha.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

^^ Yep

I bought my 347 short block used for $1350 and it came with the cam already in it. My total cost was over 2K just in getting it in the car, and i did the work myself/with a friend. Those little things add up fast.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Twisted Wedge 170s > AFR 165s > GT40Ps

Personally I wouldn't consider any of the heads mentioned except for the TW 170s, BUT no way in hell are you going to be able to do a TW170s (or even the AFRs) for $1200 with all new parts, even if you don't do a cam right now.

Trickflow heads- $1000
Pushrods- $90
Head gaskets- $50
Head Bolts- $50
Roller Rockers- $200 (at least)

...And you can see you've already blown budget. I didn't even include some other stuff, like if you want to get a new set of valve covers, VC gaskets, new fluids, shipping, tax, etc.

Not trying to discourage you, but realize that 1000-1200 bones will pretty much get you the cylinder heads themselves, and nothing else, haha.

Thats not even mentioning an intake, you'd be stupid to put a nice set of Tw's on and cork it up with a stock intake.

 

[robo]

look for a set of gt-40 p heads. i bought a fully ported and gasket matched set for my boat engine and i paid 600. they flow 225 on the intake.

at least then you will have enough money left to install them.

 

[stykthyn]

I would just get a set of plain gt40s. Don't bother porting them. By the time you drop cash into them theyb won't flow close to a higher end head and you will be approaching them in price. Upgrade the springs and put some roller rockers on then call it a day.

 

[sbm713]

host: pick a question
you: which heads for One thousand Bob
host: not those to hookers on the corner

sorry I had too lol
And like said buy the gt40s if you luck out you might find some turbo swirls in aluminum complete under your budget

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

People with stock 302s shoot for the moon when upgrading. You'd be shocked how hard a P headed 302 with a Stage 1 cam and typical bolt ons will run. For the majority of Mustang drivers out there, that's plenty fast especially if you already enjoy the stock 302 as it is. It'll be a night and day change and a major seat of the pants gain and you can get it DONE for less than the price of aluminum heads and still have cash for other toys like gears or headers. If done right you're looking at a 14 second car going to a mid 12 second car for less than a grand. Once that gets boring, throw a $500 nitrous kit on it and run 11s if you can keep from breaking everything.

 

[skunk21]

People with stock 302s shoot for the moon when upgrading. You'd be shocked how hard a P headed 302 with a Stage 1 cam and typical bolt ons will run. For the majority of Mustang drivers out there, that's plenty fast especially if you already enjoy the stock 302 as it is. It'll be a night and day change and a major seat of the pants gain and you can get it DONE for less than the price of aluminum heads and still have cash for other toys like gears or headers. If done right you're looking at a 14 second car going to a mid 12 second car for less than a grand. Once that gets boring, throw a $500 nitrous kit on it and run 11s if you can keep from breaking everything.

. P's with a stage 1 is a great combo for short money and pretty much the route I'll go for a fun street motor ( I should have done it the 1st time although my ported heads have been fun over the stock motor). I'm off the afr bandwagon, I have seen some great #'s from other heads within the same price range and there are good used heads out there also.

 

[Cutter1024]

I already have mac headers, and flowmaters. Like I said earlier, all the basic stuff is pretty much done on my car.

I had 2 12 second MR2 turbos, so even though my mustang should run a mid-high 13, it still feels slow to me. I dont think i will be happy untill its a 12 second car.

Anytways.... Say i spend the money and get the twisted wedge heads, and mild cam. What would my power gain be, What if I get the GT40p heads, stage 1 cam, and something else with the extra money left over? What would you recomend getting, and how much power am i looking at.

I also have 3.73 gears.... would it be worth it to put in 4.10's?

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

The gear debate is never ending around here. In my opinion, don't fear the gear, especially if it's not a daily driver and MPG aren't a huge factor. 4.10s are awesome especially if you have an automatic, but since you already have 3.73s just save your money for something else. You're gonna make more power with TW's and the same cam...obviously...but for the money spent you might not be THAT much faster than a P headed car. I mean, what is half a second in the quarter worth to you? That's all i would expect TW's to get you over P's, and that's on the optimistic side IMO. I can't imagine you're gonna make more than 50hp more with TW's than P's and in the long run you might be better off putting that extra money into some control arms for the rear end and maybe some 90/10 shocks and struts and end up faster in the end.

 

[Cutter1024]

50hp is a pretty big difference when your only talking 300-400hp cars. So with a P head say I make 350 horse.... so with a TW head I could make 400? For that much of a difference I would rather save up and get the TW head.

The car also has drag springs, not sure how much of a difference they make at the track, and I put on a set of 15" weld DL's with skinnys in the front and 15x8 in the rear.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Well that makes it sound as if you are planning on going to the track at least a little bit. You might as well save for aluminum to allow for optimal power in the long run, as well as shaving a bit of weight off.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

One of the mags has covered this topic and has power results but i don't have time to dig through my 200 magazines to find the articles.

50hp is optimistic...it would really depend on the whole package and whether or not the P's are really restrictive with the intake and cam you're running with them.

 

[Flavadave4]

I wanted to build a "stealthy" car that would go like hell but look stock under the hood. Long story short; I ended up spending more than I thought due to all the little parts here and there adding up. The car is definatly more fun to drive but it doesn't feel as fast as I thought it would.

My advice...
Make a list of all the parts you will need to make the combo work, and add up the prices. $1000 doesn't go far and with the down time and labor chances are you will want to rip it apart once, build it and enjoy. Going back and adding parts later is no fun and gaskets are not cheap.

Just my thoughts.