MM K-member guys come on in please

[darkside03gt]

I have been re-searching parts for my up comming build this winter. I have finally decided on a final list after much debating and research. My list includes

MMR 900 rotating assy. (already purchased)
TFS heads
blower cams of some kind maybe CMS?
T-56 swap. most likely a promotion 700hp unit
Anthricite FR500s or DD Bullits.
CX racing intercooler for my vortech
built rear with 3.73s
Termi tank and upgraded pumps
MM coilovers

And then there is the MM K-member issue. How much of a difference did you notice in handling after the install?

I dont want to drop the cash on it if the difference isnt that great. It would really help out my budget if I skiped it. But on the same note once the engine is out for a rebuild it would be the ideal time to swap one in and I dont want to put one in with the engine in especially after doing all the work to the engine plus removal and reinstallation. Its the last thing that is driving me nuts because I stuck between my budget and handling so to speak. Help me decide guys.

Thanks.

 

[joshjwc9]

If you are trying to save cash, if I were you, but the UPR K Member and then get the MM A Arms and Coilovers. UPR K Members are on many drag, street and Auto X cars in my area....Make sure you order the K Member through a good seller should there ever be any problems, UPR is normally very good if you buy direct from them or one of their big distributors.

 

[jomull55]

i agree with the above said and i think that it is the ideal time to swap the k member while you have the motor out.

 

[darkside03gt]

Honestly I dont like the UPR piece for a street car. I dont think that it has the same improvements as the MM piece in the handling department. This car will probably never see a strip. I may do some auto x events and what not once in a while but the 1/4 is not my thing. thanks for the advice though.

 

[darkside03gt]

anyone else?

 

[Killa Klown]

?

 

[SRT Handz]

UPR K-Member=Fail

Do some searching and you will find dirty posts about UPR K-members cracking....

Its your life, not mine

 

[joshjwc9]

If you do some searching you will also find some hoods that fly open, and Bilstein Coilovers that break due to the welds on the strut body.

UPR is a company that makes race parts, same with MM, that is why they back up their product should it fail for some reason.

Please realize that anything not OEM might not last as long as the OEM part.

 

[StangYellow]

If you are trying to save cash, if I were you, but the UPR K Member and then get the MM A Arms and Coilovers. .

Dude has about 10K worth of parts listed. I dont think saving $100 on a k-member matters

 

[rpburnette]

I think the point trying to made is how many UPR K-members have broken compared to MM (I am not implying one is better than the other). Everything is subject to failure, but most of us would rather have something that has a better track record of realibility.

 

[darkside03gt]

Dude has about 10K worth of parts listed. I dont think saving $100 on a k-member matters

It actually about $1000 when you add in the A-arms and aluminum rack bushings. I also wont consider anything but a MM piece because of the issues I have seen with others. Plus a $1000 dollars goes a LONG way towards other things.

 

[joshjwc9]

Look at the sheer amount of KMembers that UPR sells, then compare it to the MM pieces, I would say the numbers are between 4 to 1 and 10 to 1. For someone who probably doesn't have a UPR KMember or ever bought one (cough*SRT*cough) to make such an insult isn't worth me responding in a longer post than this one.

I still would pickup the MM KMember because the direction you seem to be taking with your car, also, look into what Epik did after it looked like his wheels moved forward in his Mach1 after a MM KMember/A Arm installation.

 

[StangYellow]

It actually about $1000 when you add in the A-arms and aluminum rack bushings. I also wont consider anything but a MM piece because of the issues I have seen with others. Plus a $1000 dollars goes a LONG way towards other things.

Um, the heads you listed as your project are 2k bucks alone..... nm, nobody got my joke.

 

[Dragstr05]

I dont want to drop the cash on it if the difference isnt that great. It would really help out my budget if I skiped it. But on the same note once the engine is out for a rebuild it would be the ideal time to swap one in and I dont want to put one in with the engine in especially after doing all the work to the engine plus removal and reinstallation. Its the last thing that is driving me nuts because I stuck between my budget and handling so to speak. Help me decide guys

Anyone going to answer his question? Somehow this turned into a MM vs UPR debate.

IMO, first off good choice on the MM. I wouldnt settle for anything less myself, esp if its for a street car. Couple points: IIRC, you need the K member for coil-overs (better ride AND handling) and the whole thing gives a nice drop in weight which will help offset some of your additions like the blower. Plus gives you better header and starter clearance.

So in short, K member = Less weight, better ride and handling (from the coil overs).

 

[EPIK]

Im not bashing UPR, & I personally have no experience with any of their parts, but UPR k members are made more for weight savings & drag racing than they are for handling & street longevity.... If you compare the UPR & the MM K's, you can tell that the MM will last longer on the streets due to the stronger steel & the way it is gusseted & braced.

If you are looking into autoXing your car, look no further than MM or Griggs, as they make & design their parts with that in mind, except Griggs isnt really designed for street longevity either.... My car did noticeably handle better on the streets with the MM K member installed & it lost weight as well..

As far as the MM k member moving the wheels forward, it did move them forward 1/2" or so, but this actually centered the wheels in the wheel better due to the longer wheel base....

 

[LaserSVT]

I have the AJE K-memeber and its a nice looking piece! Great build quality and great price. Too bad the production time on their control arms is a month though
K-memeber+ spring perches+ lower control arms w/ perches+ engine mounts= $670
Also with this setup you dont have to convert to a coil over setup
View attachment 257928
View attachment 257929
View attachment 257930

 

[darkside03gt]

Um, the heads you listed as your project are 2k bucks alone..... nm, nobody got my joke.

NOOOOO REALLY? (catch the sarcasim?)

How about you stop posting comments and actually contribute? On that same note if you dont have anthing to contribute to my actuall question DONT POST ANTHYING.

 

[darkside03gt]

Thanks EPIK thats exactly what I needed to hear. I will most likely buy one but I now have to find another $1000. This project is kinda getting out of hand money wise. But it will be worth it in the end, even if I have to swap in the K member a while after the engine is re-installed.

 

[EPIK]

Thanks EPIK thats exactly what I needed to hear. I will most likely buy one but I now have to find another $1000. This project is kinda getting out of hand money wise. But it will be worth it in the end, even if I have to swap in the K member a while after the engine is re-installed.

No prob...


Here are pics to compare MM k members to the others.. As you can see, MM is the only K member with the bracing & gussets built in....


MM....

UPR....

PA racing....

D&D....

QA1....

Griggs....

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

The AJE has a weird desgin. Where does the motor bolt up at? Where does the rack bolt up at? I missed those spots in Laser's pics.