Mods to do w/Supercharger in Mind

Silvergto2

Member
Jun 8, 2005
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I would like to eventually super-charge the stang, but in the meantime, would like to do some other (cheaper) mods. What does everyone recommend? (See sig for current mods) I am looking to get a kenne bell in about a year or so. I dont want to buy stuff and then have to take it off when I get the supercharger.
 
if you want the kenne bell you don't need any power mods.

rear end build up, tranny/clutch upgrade, forged bottom end are about all you need. you could do some supention upgrades.

there is really no need for other power mods. you more need strenght mods.

If going 9pi kit I would probably run 3.73 gears. 4.10's might require a raised limiter which KB themselves do not recomend.
 
Don't stop at gears, get 31 spline axles and diff too. A few other smart upgrades include new brakes (Cobra/R seem to be popular), long tube headers & shorty mid-pipe, 75mm throttle body, rear upper and lower control arms (Maximum Motorsports is a fav of mine), SCT Xcal 2 (or DiabloSport's product if your local tuner prefers) as you'll probably want to get a dyno tune instead of running with the supplied chip from KB, and if you really want to be prepared for lots of boost a built short block!
 
I'm going through the same thing, except I've got the HP twin turbo kit in mind. I can't even slap a CAI on there without having to throw it out later on.

If it's not your only form of transportation and you have about 3k, I'd do a forged shortblock first off (assuming you want to put a decent amount of power in to the setup.) The only problem is, unless you do stroked or something, you probably won't notice a power difference.. so it'll be like giving somebody 3k, doing all the work replacing it, then feeling nothing until that supercharger goes on.

Suspension is about the best one to work on for now. You can start now, will get some benefits now, and will hopefully have better traction, which as said earlier, will result in needing more rear end strength.
 
Buy 3.73 gears, no higher. Don't waste your money on anything if you're going KB. Get exhaust mods, cams, and/or heads. A bigger throttle body won't hurt 75mm. Don't buy a CAI, underdrive pullies, plenum. You'll end up throwing them away.
 
How much power were you looking to make? Over 400 rwhp, and you should buy forged internals.

Mos def beef up your rear end. 31 spline axles, and diff. Weld your torque boxes, subframe connectors, LCAs.

Don't forget about your fuel system. New injectors, pump, etc.
 
Thanks for all of the replys, the information is really helpful. I think I will get started on the suspension then, first up though will be the magnaflow x pipe to pair up with my magnapacks.
 
Depends on the type of blower. KB no gears, Cent at least 3.73's maybe even 4.10's.

As for the rest of the mods:

Engine

Fully Forged Bottom end
P&P heads
Blower Cams
Intercooler
Headers
Mid pipe
Cat back

Suspension

Rear upper and lower arms
Springs
Subframes
30 Spline axels ( a good Idea, not necessary )
It would be a good idea to upgrade the tranny too

It all depends on the power goal of the car as well. SOme of the above isn't needed on a 400HP street only car.
 
WOT said:
Depends on the type of blower. KB no gears, Cent at least 3.73's maybe even 4.10's.

As for the rest of the mods:

Engine

Fully Forged Bottom end
P&P heads
Blower Cams
Intercooler
Headers
Mid pipe
Cat back

Suspension

Rear upper and lower arms
Springs
Subframes
3ONE Spline axels ( a good Idea, not necessary )
It would be a good idea to upgrade the tranny too

It all depends on the power goal of the car as well. SOme of the above isn't needed on a 400HP street only car.

:D. Upper control arms on a street car? Don't they tend to be unforgiving on harsh roads?
 
I dissagree on the longtubes. you can make well over what the stock shortblock will like just on the pullies.

waste of money with the KB because you already get tons of low end.

on a centri I would do the longtubes.

control arms and rear end build up is where I would start. I just did the rear end on mine becasue of wanting a 9spi kit. I could not rationalize just doing gears when the axles would be a week point as well. welded the tubes also.

I would stay 3.73's becaue 4.10's only give you a 112 trap speed limit @6000rpm. 373's will give you some trap speed margin without raising the limiter

I think I would buy all KB recomended intake upgrades as if staying with there tune you don't need a certain aftermarket maf, or cold air messing with the tune.
 
Stang|ess said:
:D. Upper control arms on a street car? Don't they tend to be unforgiving on harsh roads?


Yes I meant 31 spline, but anyway yes uppers too. You start making power with a blower and the suspension loads up and you end up with no traction.

Just because you have uppers doesn't mean you loose your ride quality. Going with all spherical bushings maybe but otherwise no.
 
WOT said:
Yes I meant 31 spline, but anyway yes uppers too. You start making power with a blower and the suspension loads up and you end up with no traction.

Just because you have uppers doesn't mean you loose your ride quality. Going with all spherical bushings maybe but otherwise no.
You may not lose ride quality, but swapping out your control arms aren't going to do anything but increase your ability to buff ash vault without doing tires, springs and shocks as well. I might consider boxing up the factory upper and lowers, but I’d stick with the stock rubber bushings until the rest of the suspension can be addressed.
 
if going boosted I would just beaf up the car. 31 spline axles, gear it for the intended power level, rear control amrs, subframes, transmission, clutch, forged pistons, rods.

The reality once you go boosted you stock heads, cams, exhaust are all still good to 500hp+ with enough boost and the right intercooler. the rest of the car is not.

for example I am going to get the KB intercooled kit eventually. I can go to 14psi and like 500hp with just that kit. my stock rear, clutch, rods, pistons, tranny proably would not like that. so I did the rear, will do the tranny and the clutch next. will probablay try to run the car to 100k to 120k at 9spi and then do a forged motor if it lives that long then run 12psi or so.