Motive 4.10s vs FRPP 4.10s + Bonus question!

Maza4ever14

New Member
Apr 27, 2005
187
0
0
Bay Area, CA
??

i made a post about this but wasnt home for the weekend to see all the posts.

so im set on 4.10s but which should i go for. i was orginally going for the FRPPs but the price was good for the Motives and some people say they are good


also i have an auto 04 GT, what is the correct way to race. all i have been doing is taking the OD and traction control off. some one told me to powerbrake at about 2500 rpm then floor it.

should i start from 1st and at what rpm should i up shift?

ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! thanks in advance
 
I've heard Motives are just as good as FRPP, but I will be buying FRPP 4.10s when the time is right, my opinion about everything is that something is always cheaper for some reason.
 
i dont have an auto, but if I were you I would try and PB it to 2K then push down about 3/4 then if it hooks go ahead and nail it...I would start there and the adjust accordingly at the track...and yes O/D off and TC off...but be warned that you will be darn near the top of 3rd in the traps, the bad thing about 4.10s, so if you have a lot of mods planned 4.10s will hurt you as you will have to hit O/D and besides killing your RPMs, its not good to shift into O/D @ WOT from what i hear. Also be warned that your RPMs will be crazy high with the auto, like 3K @ 70 i think LOL. 3.73s should drop that down to around 2600RPMs, its a big difference and I dont know about you but i cant stand driving around at 3K seems like its taching to much.
 
well it all depends on how you drive, liek if you do a lot of interstate travel and stuff like that. I know a guy with an auto did 4.10s I think and his gas mileage improved a TON
 
it improved a ton? wow never woulda thought of that.

well i am switchin schools soon so i wont do a lot of highway driving. i mostly use my commuter unless im trying to stunt heading to the city

im mostly going to be doing some city driving
 
It improved a ton because on the road he took to work everyday the car was so close to shifting to the next gear, when he added the gears it allowed the car to shift and improved his gas mileage because of this.
 
If its alot of city, then shoot hit the 4.30s. they would be even better with the high gearing of the tranny vs the 5spd (one less gear). I wasnt really refering to the gas milage dropping with 4.10s but was referring to the drivability.
 
Maza4ever14 said:
??


also i have an auto 04 GT, what is the correct way to race. all i have been doing is taking the OD and traction control off. some one told me to powerbrake at about 2500 rpm then floor it.

should i start from 1st and at what rpm should i up shift?

ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! thanks in advance

If you are Bracket Racing then you know it is all about being consistant and not how fast you are. With that said, in a perfect world your main goal is to run the same time everytime you run and be dead on your dial-in ET.

If you manualy shift your automatic you will chance being inconsistant as the computer controled shifts are basicly the same every time. A tuner will be able to change your shift points if you desire more speed.

Bringing your RPM's up at the start (stalling the torque converter) will intensify wheel spin. If you leave from a dead idle there is less chance of wheel spin and therefore you will be more consistant.

Also your reaction time is as important as your dial-in and you need to be consistant with that too. Once you get all your leaving the line reactions down to a consistant state you can adjust what light and when you are leaving to get your reaction times down as low as possible without red lighting. What I am building up to here is if you come off the line with your foot on the throttle stalling the converter vs having you foot somewhat away from the throttle at dead idle, you can get a run on the pedal by having your foot away from it. The time it takes for you to floor it will be quicker than having your foot against it because you can smack the pedal from a distance. This time period might only be a few thousands of a second but in Bracket Racing races are won and lost by .001 of a second!

Faster times are had without the traction control yes but try it both ways and see which is more consistant. Again consistant is the name of the game in Bracket Racing if you want to WIN! I would still leave the OD off as you know since there will be know need for it.
 
Have you considered Motive 3.90s? That would give you a little extra gear running 3rd past the traps. I hear people that have them rave about them as many were those who decided on these instead of the normal 3.73 vs 4.10 gears that most talk about. When I had my gears installed the mechanic tried his best to talk me into 3.90s but I was set on 4.10s. Just thought I'd mention it. It is too bad FRPP doesn't have 3.90s.
 
^i asked my mustang consultant (lol my homeboy) about the 4.10s vs 3.73s and he said maybe go 4.10s.

after reading another post about the problems 4.10s added to a guys car in this forum i was set back down to 3.73s but 3.90s would be great.
 
I have some Motive 4.10's in my '02 GT. They've been quiet since day one. I've had them in for almost a year now and I wouldn't hesitate to buy Motive if I did it again. The Motives are just as good as the FRPP gears. It's all in the install. You get a crappy install and they're gonna whine no matter what brand you buy. With a good install, they should be quiet no matter what brand you buy.
 
hotmustang331 said:
Also be warned that your RPMs will be crazy high with the auto, like 3K @ 70 i think LOL. 3.73s should drop that down to around 2600RPMs, its a big difference and I dont know about you but i cant stand driving around at 3K seems like its taching to much.

With the 4.11s it will be more like 2600 rpm at 70, 2400 @ 70 with 3.73s.

http://www.wcfords.com/stuff/calcs/EGTcalc/egtcalc.php