MOTOR IN !!!!! Amazing, except a few things.

Dave, thanks for the reply (didn't want to quote it).. I'm getting mixed results here, if the o2 is in the red, and takes a while to get going, could this be the long tube o2 heating issue??? (I've read that with long tubes, it takes a while to heat up??)

I'm going to datalog a lot more today and try to adjust A/F just to make sure I'm not leaning out (worried about being lean, but probably not an issue)..

tx, I really need to get on a wideband !! :D
 
CopMagnet5oh said:
hey man, how much power do u think ure putting down ?

also, wanna cruise to tmp together or something.

- Kons

ps To all, its a sick car hes got, seen it, soon i'll say raced him too :)

hey, tx for the reply.. I want to see your car soon too !! as for cruisin', yeah, I think I'm going to TMP (assuming I'm tuned up by then !?) what time you thinkin' ? I was thinking of getting a dyno session sometime this week, maybe monday..

anyways, I'll keep ya posted.. !!
 
If you are running less that stock fuel pressure it would seem to me that you would be lean.

If you work with your inj low/high slope, breakpoint, offset, min pulsewidth & such to dial in your inj's really close and then change the fuel pressure, all of your work with the inj tuning will be off.

If you don't have a wide band, where are you getting the 19 to 1 number from?

Later
Grady
 
jetuomi said:
Dave, thanks for the reply (didn't want to quote it).. I'm getting mixed results here, if the o2 is in the red, and takes a while to get going, could this be the long tube o2 heating issue??? (I've read that with long tubes, it takes a while to heat up??)
Nah, with longtubes and O2 heating problems, the result is running richer, not leaner. And it really only happens when it's pretty cold, no more than 50* outside. I only have to run open loop idle in the winter, during the summer I can run full time closed loop without any O2 problems.

I'm going to datalog a lot more today and try to adjust A/F just to make sure I'm not leaning out (worried about being lean, but probably not an issue)..
I would be most concerned about making sure that the computer is going into closed loop and that the O2's are working. You can't read too much into what ratio you get from the stock O2 sensors, because they get *very* inaccurate when you get any distance away from stoich (14.7). If you see "switching" going on, then you're okay. (I put that in quotes, because the O2's don't really switch, it's just what the output looks like when the EEC is properly running in closed loop).

Dave
 
Nah, with longtubes and O2 heating problems, the result is running richer, not leaner.

Which may be why his lambse is 19.xx. If the lambse is over stoich, it's running rich. Remember, lambse is the target AFR, not the actual AFR.

jetoumi. . .you may want to consider buying EEC Analyzer. It will tweak your MAF curve based on your kamrf in order to get it to 1 across the board. All you have to do it import your datalog and hit the button :)
 
Zero Signal said:
Which may be why his lambse is 19.xx. If the lambse is over stoich, it's running rich. Remember, lambse is the target AFR, not the actual AFR.
I didn't realize he was referring to lambse, thought he was just reporting what he was seeing coming from the O2's. Upon re-reading what he wrote, perhaps he is thinking of lambse... :shrug: Better rich than lean, at least :D.

Dave
 
Tx guys for replying (no luck on tweecer, bit slower turn around there).. SO here's the replies to quotes..

(1) yes I should have said lambse, I believe that problem is corrected with #2

(2) uploaded J4J1, set fuel pressure at 35, uploaded MAF transfer, lowered fan temp, car runs much better, idle is solid, power is there till 6000, o2's are working properly, except

(3) Check engine produces 512, Keep Alive Memory test failed or something, and, my KAMRF values during datalog are always at 1.00 (which makes sense, those are the long term correction values held in KAM!).. So what is happening is my car is running rich, LAMBSE tells me that, but KAMRF doesn't adjust it, so its still about 15% rich, no problem, just tune it out, but the CE code bugs me, did I blow my memory, or am I missing that base_checksum = 0 value somewhere? My test today will be to bypass the tweecer (setting 5) and see if this still happens, the I start to get worried ???????

(4) longtubes problem of making the car rich, might be adding to my richness problem, but not really a problem, I'd rather be rich than lean like you've said. :nice:

(5) CAR IS LOUD (haha, cats here I come!) stock tailpipes have almost no sound at cruising but when you hit WOT boy do they scream.. (this isn't a problem, yet, haha)

(6) another thing I found when I shift hard 1-2, the car makes a smashing sound in the back, and a crunching sound under the floor.. I'm thinking the rear bushing are shot and the car is too low so the aluminum driveshaft is rubbing..

Other than that, J4J1 fixed a lot of driveability problems, timing is very low, so that'll help boost the power, but that's about it, tx for replying guys, I really appreciate it, and I can't believe how much guessing I'd be doing without stangnet, tweecer, and datalogging !!! (in that order!)
 
Sounds like you're getting a handle on it. You might try reflashing the EEC with a clean new J4J1 calibration adjusted the way you want, see if that clears up the issues you're having. Once you can get the EEC to start doing closed loop tuning, it should improve your A/F pretty quickly.

Dave
 
You can put the closed loop tag if your datalog. If in open loop then 1.00 kamrfs are the normal.The closed loop tag will confirm what is going on. If you are way rich, which a 19 lambse would confirm, it would not surprise me that you are not going into closed loop very much. You can play with the maf points to lean it back a bit but I like working with the various inj tags to get closer to 1.00 kamrfs.

Later
Grady
 
"quote..(6) another thing I found when I shift hard 1-2, the car makes a smashing sound in the back, and a crunching sound under the floor.. I'm thinking the rear bushing are shot and the car is too low so the aluminum driveshaft is rubbing..quote"

Dude you better check that out...the DS is NOT all that thick...i wore a line in mine in short order....We dont need anymore "dumped the DS" stories, ask Jason bout that... :bang: That E bracket it hits, is rugged and will score it right up...
Sound like she's coming round just fine though... :nice:
 
- RIO, with the battery in the back the car sits even a bit lower than before so this would be why its happening now instead of before, thanks, I'll put it on the hoist tomorrow !

- RC, my car does some stupid things before going into closed loop.. start it up, idles fine at 1100, then, after 2 minutes, the car jumps to 2000rpm, idles for 30 seconds at this rpm, coughs, almost stalls, then drops to 900 rpm and is solid from there-on in... doesn't matter if its cold or hot, ACT, ECT, have no play in this.. its almost like the ECU is doing a test or something?

- Grady, I put the CL tag in my data logging, and adjusted my AFPR to 37 psi.. then, when I hit it in closed loop, my KAMRF is between .988 and 1.04, so not bad, definately in the range of the processor to tune..

- Dave, thanks man, I'm amazed at how awesome the tweecer is, and the support out there for it (stangnet, tweecer forums rule!)


SO, to summarize where I got to today, J4J1 program, 4th iteration, I've adjusted fan, idle, fuel shutoff, exhaust pulse delay, timing, and the thing idles rock solid with all accessories on, pulls hard, the LAMBSE of 19 is gone, the o2's are reading fine (do they maybe take like 50 km's to "work in" ?)

So, the two things I need to do is get rid of the 512 error code (going to clear the KAM) and figure out this higher idling issue like I mentioned to RC, I need to datalog every variable during that first few minutes..

AND, finally, TRACK THIS SATURDAY !!!! can't wait..
(ps: gonna finally change my sig!!)
 
OK, I'm all tuned up on the J4J1.. idles solid, runs solid, timing is low (gotta start adjusting that).. maf transfer is bang on, my KAMRF is .998 and 1.008 so that's pretty close !! My CE light is a "non-issue" now so all I have to do is clear the KAM I'm sure..

BUT wow tx guys for telling me about the AL driveshaft, there is like 1/16" inch worn where the e-brake rubs it when it bottoms out.. How THICK is the driveshaft, do I have any worries???