Motor Teardown Question

[JamesBaumann]

This is not 2.3 Mustang related, but it is Mustang related and it's a pretty general question. I have plans to start tearing apart a 351W here in my shop. I haven't got any specialty tools for this type of project just yet, so this is where you guys come in. I need to know, outside of your basic wrenches and sockets what types of tools I am going to need to purchase for this project. I know that I am going to need a breaker bar and perhaps air impact tools to break loose the head bolts and the main bolts, but are there any other specialty tools that I am going to need. For example, a friend was telling me that I may need some type of bearing remover for when it comes time to pull off main bearings, cam bearings and all the rest. Also, when I was pulling apart my 2.3 at my buddy's machine shop last year I cant remember if we used a special tool to take off the cam followers or not. Do you need one, or do they just come off with basic tools and a little force? I'm not going to need any re-assembly tools such as a torque wrench etc. because I am going to leave that to the pros. But can anybody think of any other tools that I am going to need to do this tear apart project? Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

 

[stackz]

why not let the pro's take it apart then?

you don't have cam followers, you have rocker arms, they come off after their bolt/nut is removed.

Cam bearings need a special tool to be removed/installed.

You might need a crank pulley puller if it's frozen onto the crank end snub.

that's about it.

 

[98blueoval]

might need a ridge reamer..but what does it matter if ya bust the pistons getting them out..bore it and put new pistons in anyway..

 

[Ray III]

You do not need any special tools, as long as you have a good day getting the crank pulley off. The only difficulty you will encounter with hand tools is anchoring the rotating assembly while removing the bolts in either end of the crankshaft.

Do not try to remove the cam bearings. Let the machine shop change them for you.

When you are removing the main bearing caps, raise the cap bolts up enough to use them as a handle by squeezing them together and wiggling the cap off. Engine bearings just slide out, or if they stick you can use a hammer and screwdriver to VERY CAREFULLY tap at one end to get it started, without touching the surface that holds the bearings.

 

[Ray III]

and make sure you keep pushrods in order and mark all other parts for where they came from

 

[351wcoupe]

Let me know your budget because I have a really good combo that can be done for the same price as a stock rebuild.

 

[JamesBaumann]

might need a ridge reamer..but what does it matter if ya bust the pistons getting them out..bore it and put new pistons in anyway..

I am putting in new pistons. Not sure which ones yet, but something high performance. I want to pull 300-350 hp out of it.

 

[JamesBaumann]

Let me know your budget because I have a really good combo that can be done for the same price as a stock rebuild.

I'll be sure to let you know what my budget for the project is once I actually get the project started. I dont want to go too overboard with internal engine parts. I'm thinking right now that the only aftermarket parts that will go into the motor will be pistons and cams. The rest of the engine work will probably just consist of having the cylinders bored out, the heads getting ported, polished and milled. But 351Wcoupe, I'll be sure to talk to you before I get this project a rollin. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[JamesBaumann]

why not let the pro's take it apart then?

you don't have cam followers, you have rocker arms, they come off after their bolt/nut is removed.

Cam bearings need a special tool to be removed/installed.

You might need a crank pulley puller if it's frozen onto the crank end snub.

that's about it.

Thanks for the help. There are many reasons why I am pulling it apart myself. It's cheaper, it's a learning experience, I dont have to deal with the people at the machine shop and it'll feel better once it's done knowing that I did a lot of the work on my own. Thanks for clearing up the cam follower/rocker arm fiasco. I'm still learning about these things, keep the responses coming.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

You do not need any special tools, as long as you have a good day getting the crank pulley off. The only difficulty you will encounter with hand tools is anchoring the rotating assembly while removing the bolts in either end of the crankshaft.

Do not try to remove the cam bearings. Let the machine shop change them for you.

Words to live by I always let a machine shop deal with the cam bearings because its WAY easy and cheap.

If I could just throw one tool in hear that I think is a MUST have...get a 1/2" break bar This will let you tear that thiung down with barely breaking a sweet

 

[351wcoupe]

here's the deal.
Stock bottom end parts will turn 350 hp a longtime as long as you don't turn too much rpm.

Use a Forged 10-1 302 piston(shorter deck height) cheap on ebay
Stock 351 rods shotpeened(stress relieved)
Buy an aftermarket crank made for a 392Windsor. Not on ebay... definately know the quality of the crank.
Stock block cleaned
Find a locked up 302 from a 88-up crown vic(I get them for $50) and there's your roller cam conversion.
Then buy a cam kit(cam, lifters, and valve springs) that lifts about .530 or so with a good duration.
You "can" use your stock heads just port them within an inch of their life, and be sure to convert them to a scrwe in stud(anything over .500 lift cam will pull the studs out.)
Now that I think about it you'r going to have a 7/16 pedestal mount rocker. Instead get the conversion kit to switch it to adjustable rockers...summit sells that.
I used an edelbrock RPM Performer (bought new) and an edelbrock 600 CFM 4brl that I found in a buddy's junk yard for $60.

That will net you an easy 350 hp. if you turn it about 6500rpms and Its all with cheap parts.

 

[Ray III]

you can make 300 easy on the stock block and cam with some cheap aftermarket heads and a decent intake. There is a guy who posted a question on corral.net (5.0/5.8 engine tech) asking about how to get a little over 300 out of a 351 without doing too much to it.

 

[351wcoupe]

Ford heads suck but I don't think heads are needed.
However if you come across a set of "CHEAP" GT-40P heads they came on 302 explorers. Not great and had a small exhaust valve but they make good torque numbers.

 

[titanio]

Thanks for the help. There are many reasons why I am pulling it apart myself. It's cheaper, it's a learning experience, I dont have to deal with the people at the machine shop and it'll feel better once it's done knowing that I did a lot of the work on my own. Thanks for clearing up the cam follower/rocker arm fiasco. I'm still learning about these things, keep the responses coming.

Don't want to teal with the people at the machine shop eh James? haha

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Ford heads suck but I don't think heads are needed.
However if you come across a set of "CHEAP" GT-40P heads they came on 302 explorers. Not great and had a small exhaust valve but they make good torque numbers.

They put GT-49 Heads on a Explorer These heads are nice and you kind find a few sets on ebay for a fair price. I would look for some ment for a Mustang if they did put some on a truck because the mustang verison will be closed chambered with more compression. (Its the same way on the 4.6L also.)

EDIT

Hey when you tear the motor down make sure you keep the rod caps with the rods they came off of as well as number the main caps. They maybe a little different by a few thousands of a inch so mixing them up could cause a issue

 

[JamesBaumann]

I'll be sure to keep everything and let the pros at the machine shop take a look and we'll go from there.

 

[titanio]

Hey guy, when you planning to tear into this beast?

 

[JamesBaumann]

Hopefully in the next month or so I'll start taking it apart.