Braided hose will accept a clamp just fine.. they even make ends that use a clamp and look like a fitting... not my thing.. I use either spring clamps or fuel line style clamps VS the worm gear.
Slip a piece of heat shrink over it and partially shrink it so it can be folded back. to get at the clamp, looks clean as long as someone does not eyeball it too much
Slip a piece of heat shrink over it and partially shrink it so it can be folded back. to get at the clamp, looks clean as long as someone does not eyeball it too much
We'll give this a shot. Now to laser cut it.
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Looks like I need to modify. I need to grab these two mounting tabs to bolt it up. I’ll likely 3d print a prototype first to make sure I have the right location. Setting up the laser cutter program and getting machine time is a PITA
Also, installed the throttle cable. All my “thru-the-firewall” work is done. Dash can go back on now. I want to throw it on first to make sure all plugs where they need to be.
final pedal setup. I plan on remaking the brake pedal later on. The pad comes off, so I’ll design and weld something up that can accept the SN95 matching pad.
Evaporust bath for the spindkes and some other parts. I’m impressed at how well this stuff works. I want them spotless before I throw some paint on.
Also, installed the throttle cable. All my “thru-the-firewall” work is done. Dash can go back on now. I want to throw it on first to make sure all plugs where they need to be.
final pedal setup. I plan on remaking the brake pedal later on. The pad comes off, so I’ll design and weld something up that can accept the SN95 matching pad.
Evaporust bath for the spindkes and some other parts. I’m impressed at how well this stuff works. I want them spotless before I throw some paint on.
Got my brake line that runs from the drivers side firewall union to the rear. Interesting how this setup was done in 2 pieves, but it’s a different routing to clear subframe connectors.
originally I was going to leave this line alone, until I found the worn area. Now I’m glad I’ll have all new SS lines on the entire car. Piece of mind
originally I was going to leave this line alone, until I found the worn area. Now I’m glad I’ll have all new SS lines on the entire car. Piece of mind
So for those who don’t know, I have a 90-93 dash in an ‘88, which means the fuse box bo longer technically has a place to mount. The 90-93 plate doesn’t fit, so I’ll make my own.
So I tweaked my initial design. I didn’t have the car with me, so I ball-parked a rough idea out based on a picture of the two mount tabs I wish to grab.
it fits the fuse box well
But I estimated wrong under the dash. I made some marks and can adjust the model and print another.
once I have the prototype, I’ll laser cut it from .100 Aluminum and maybe annodize it or powdercoat.
maybe I’ll make a few. Depends on how much material I have.
So I tweaked my initial design. I didn’t have the car with me, so I ball-parked a rough idea out based on a picture of the two mount tabs I wish to grab.
it fits the fuse box well
But I estimated wrong under the dash. I made some marks and can adjust the model and print another.
once I have the prototype, I’ll laser cut it from .100 Aluminum and maybe annodize it or powdercoat.
maybe I’ll make a few. Depends on how much material I have.
I evaporusted a set of fox spindles (granted, was like try #4 on that bottle and was really really weak, so need to do it again) but it blackened them. Think bluing steel color. I actually like the look, but know it may change the color
These came out that sort of gray, ductile iron look.
Either way...they are currently being painted as we speak. Acetone wipe down, some self-etch, and a few coats of black. Let them dry a few days, and then they can go on the car.
Steering rack install currently being held up by new pack of Teflon O-rings.
Finished painting the spindles. Got new hardware and new Ford spindke nuts. I’ll give these a few days to fully cure before I bolt them in.
One side spindle torqued on. Got the hub on too. Came out quite nice. Strut is loose because I need to remove it a few more times.
also, PSA on fake bolts. Steering rack bolts. I got the black bolt on McMaster-carr. It’s 5mm too short. Found a slightly longer bolt on eBay.
both bolts are Grade 10.9 and have the same manufacturer head stamp. The black one is nice and hefty. The longer one is noticeably lighter. It feels cheap in my hand. I don’t have the means to prove it, but I would bet it’s a counterfeit bolt.
anyway, I dumped the original rack bolts in the evaporust and it came out awesome! It’s about 2” too long, but screw it I’ll just run it.
also, PSA on fake bolts. Steering rack bolts. I got the black bolt on McMaster-carr. It’s 5mm too short. Found a slightly longer bolt on eBay.
both bolts are Grade 10.9 and have the same manufacturer head stamp. The black one is nice and hefty. The longer one is noticeably lighter. It feels cheap in my hand. I don’t have the means to prove it, but I would bet it’s a counterfeit bolt.
anyway, I dumped the original rack bolts in the evaporust and it came out awesome! It’s about 2” too long, but screw it I’ll just run it.
Good stopping point. Both sides done.
I need to get this steering rack on next. Or back on I should say as it was installed last week already
I need to get this steering rack on next. Or back on I should say as it was installed last week already
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Looking really good, now that I see pictures of the MM K member installed in your car I can see the major differences between it and the UPR I chose for my application..
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