I had to try two different WP's when I did my top end as the first one also stuck out.
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Actually, it looks like I need to space the pulley out a tad. Spent some time staring at it at the WP pulley is definitely set back 1/16” to 1/8”.
Aparently the offset from the crank is causing it to ride up the rear ridge of the pulley.
I know they make water pump spacers, so I’ll pick up a kit to try out.
Aparently the offset from the crank is causing it to ride up the rear ridge of the pulley.
I know they make water pump spacers, so I’ll pick up a kit to try out.
Still waiting on pulley spacer.
Another LMR Black Friday order showed up. One of the last pieces to make my 5-spd swap as official and close to OEM as possible. Always bothered me how I couldn’t bolt up the inner boot properly. This should fix that
Another LMR Black Friday order showed up. One of the last pieces to make my 5-spd swap as official and close to OEM as possible. Always bothered me how I couldn’t bolt up the inner boot properly. This should fix that
Detail work now. New seal for the stock airbox. I was going to go a quick 2k grit wet sand on this first and see if it can restore some of that shine.
I do have to say though, now that my engine looks good, the stock airbox really isn’t appealing to me. It looks old and grungy. I think I might need a CAI just for looks.
I know the Anderson power pipe os the big one, but I’ll be honest…it looks fugly.
The BbK black CAI is growing on me. I dunno.
What do you think? Stock or some sort of CAI?
I do have to say though, now that my engine looks good, the stock airbox really isn’t appealing to me. It looks old and grungy. I think I might need a CAI just for looks.
I know the Anderson power pipe os the big one, but I’ll be honest…it looks fugly.
The BbK black CAI is growing on me. I dunno.
What do you think? Stock or some sort of CAI?
I like my chrome BBK CAI, but do wish it was black instead of chrome, so that’s my vote.Detail work now. New seal for the stock airbox. I was going to go a quick 2k grit wet sand on this first and see if it can restore some of that shine.
I do have to say though, now that my engine looks good, the stock airbox really isn’t appealing to me. It looks old and grungy. I think I might need a CAI just for looks.
I know the Anderson power pipe os the big one, but I’ll be honest…it looks fugly.
The BbK black CAI is growing on me. I dunno.
What do you think? Stock or some sort of CAI?
One of these days I’ll attempt to paint it.
I think the stock air box balances the dog house, battery on one side, air box on the other.
but then,,,,, a nice black pipe fore and aft of the maf with a filter hidden in the fender well looks good to.
but then,,,,, a nice black pipe fore and aft of the maf with a filter hidden in the fender well looks good to.
Let me clean it up a bit and then pass judgement. The Motorcraft sticker is gone now (it was falling off) and a quick wet sand does make it look a bit newer. Let me work on it and give it another shot
Built a Mr Fusion smoke machine.
Puts out tons of smoke, draws 5amps when running and smells like a citronella candle. No idea if it will go up in flames but keep an extinguisher handy.
Waiting on some tubing and then I can do a quick smoke test just to cross off that box
Puts out tons of smoke, draws 5amps when running and smells like a citronella candle. No idea if it will go up in flames but keep an extinguisher handy.
Waiting on some tubing and then I can do a quick smoke test just to cross off that box
Nice! That’s the one from Brew2l?Built a Mr Fusion smoke machine.
Puts out tons of smoke, draws 5amps when running. No idea if it will burn the garage down but I keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Waiting on some tubing and then I can do a quick smoke test just to cross off that box
Starting to get into the finishing touches now.
New grill. Amazingly these are still available. Tasca Ford has them for $55. I did pick up new hardware from LMR, as my screws were all rusty.
Unfortunately my plan stalled out trying to get these originals out. They don’t come out easy. Not sure how hard I’ll try as they still work, but I just want to ditch the 34 year old rusty ones.
Decided to check out my original grill , to new Ford production. I checked out the markings on the backside and they were spot on. 30 years separation.
Original on top. Check out the scratches on the part number.
New grill. Amazingly these are still available. Tasca Ford has them for $55. I did pick up new hardware from LMR, as my screws were all rusty.
Unfortunately my plan stalled out trying to get these originals out. They don’t come out easy. Not sure how hard I’ll try as they still work, but I just want to ditch the 34 year old rusty ones.
Decided to check out my original grill , to new Ford production. I checked out the markings on the backside and they were spot on. 30 years separation.
Original on top. Check out the scratches on the part number.
Decided I wanted to try and eliminate some useless codes. Made some resistor plugs for the TAD and TAB
Lopped off the ends of a junk pair of TAB/TAD I’ve had in a box of spare parts.
Next up, exposed the terminal ends and then drilled a small hole in each
Added a 75ohm resistor and soldered it in.
A little heat shrink and done.
Plugged them in and zip-tied out of way. I realize this is quite useless, but I had the parts so why not? This will eliminate the code 81/82 during KOEO code reading.
You will still get toe code 41/91 during KOER testing though. Nothing you can do about that other than put the air pump back on.
Lopped off the ends of a junk pair of TAB/TAD I’ve had in a box of spare parts.
Next up, exposed the terminal ends and then drilled a small hole in each
Added a 75ohm resistor and soldered it in.
A little heat shrink and done.
Plugged them in and zip-tied out of way. I realize this is quite useless, but I had the parts so why not? This will eliminate the code 81/82 during KOEO code reading.
You will still get toe code 41/91 during KOER testing though. Nothing you can do about that other than put the air pump back on.
Still working through the EGR not working. I know it’s getting removed eventually but I still need things to work.
Saw that those EGR resistor plugs are now $100, so I figure I’d try to build one or two myself. I’d rather get the EGR functional for now, but I wanted to see how it involved it would be to build 2 or 3 of these.
So found the plug kit online
Aokus Compatible with Ford Mustang egr EGR harness connector plug - 1986-1995/86-95 5.0L V8 and 2.3L four cylinder Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091Z453GT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RWPQBC094QMCEXRFATZD
Unfortunately whoever is putting these kits together is supplying the wrong pins. They send them out with female pin. Unfortunately you need male pins.
So I found these
25 Wedge Lock Terminals 20-18 Gauge .110 Male Pin Dia. Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040D0R7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MTHHDGWCWQ4VSZ09EF0P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This pin will work. Now to wire it up like the diagram shows
Quick project one night, and test it out. My understanding is the resistors simulate a fixed closed position which prevents the CEL from lighting, but also turns off the EGR function in the ECU.
Saw that those EGR resistor plugs are now $100, so I figure I’d try to build one or two myself. I’d rather get the EGR functional for now, but I wanted to see how it involved it would be to build 2 or 3 of these.
So found the plug kit online
Aokus Compatible with Ford Mustang egr EGR harness connector plug - 1986-1995/86-95 5.0L V8 and 2.3L four cylinder Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091Z453GT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RWPQBC094QMCEXRFATZD
Unfortunately whoever is putting these kits together is supplying the wrong pins. They send them out with female pin. Unfortunately you need male pins.
So I found these
25 Wedge Lock Terminals 20-18 Gauge .110 Male Pin Dia. Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040D0R7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MTHHDGWCWQ4VSZ09EF0P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This pin will work. Now to wire it up like the diagram shows
Quick project one night, and test it out. My understanding is the resistors simulate a fixed closed position which prevents the CEL from lighting, but also turns off the EGR function in the ECU.
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As far as the EGR not working,what was used in the way of intake gaskets?
Are the gaskets blocking off the EGR passages?
Are the gaskets blocking off the EGR passages?
I want to say I wouldn’t have goofed up and put intake gaskets that lacked the EGR port, but it’s possible. I’m trying to look back at my thread or find a receipt but S/N for some reason is not loading my older posts.
The reason I think you might be right is because I manually opened the EGR valve at idle and nothing changed. It seems like there is no flow at all. The heads do have the ports, but maybe I did slap gaskets that blocked them off
In that case, EGR resistor plug and block off plate and call it a day.
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