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Ok. Got the rest of the stuff I needed in.



Took apart the lines to apply the Nylog. The stuff is very gooey and hard to use. It has the consistency of a fishing lure. Managed to devise a system of spreading it on the o-rings and reinstalled my lines.

Hooked up my fittings and started my vacuum. Took about 1 hr to get it down to 1000 microns. I didn’t want to go crazy chasing 500 just yet because I’ll need to redo this later on.



The above fitting on the left leaked. It was a shraeder valve depressor so I could isolate the high side. Leaked like a sieve so couldn’t go with that plan.

At 1000 microns I filled it with 100psi of nitrogen out of my tank


I should be able to test pressure in a few weeks to see if it’s holding. The N2 will help purge the system the next time I pull a vacuum as well. I’ll have to do another DEEP vacuum later to remove this all, but at least it can sit pressurized for now so I can see if it’s leaking. Considering it’s winter, no real rush to fill the system with R12 and see if it blows cold air when it’s 10 degrees out.


Core tools. Fun little thing if you know HVAC. I needed it to attach my micron gauge and to try and speed up the vacuum. Helps to remove and replace shraeder under vscuum. I removed the core to pull the vacuum, added the nitrogen, and now am putting the core back in under pressure.





That’s it for now. I’ll borrow a high accuracy positive pressure guage for work, take a reading, and then take another one in a few weeks.
 
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Borrowed a high accuracy guage. Will let it sit for a few days. And see if this holds as a way of leak checking.

Ambient temp will affect this pressure. Currently 45 degrees in garage. This should hold steady through the weekend…I think.

I realize I’m doing steps your average person wouldn’t do to charge their AC system, with tools the average person doesn’t have. Sorry.

 
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Yeah well is cool to see dedication and attention to detail.

I’m sure if I had consecutive time to work on the car you would t see as much detail work. The car would probably be driving with ac right now, but half the level of detail the car has now.


Life’s too busy with work, family, and other stuff that these 10-mins here and there and planning is what keeps me sane.
 
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It’s a bit on the high side, especially considering it’s a stock 98 4.6 SOHC. If it was high teens it probably be sold, but winter time is hard to sell a Mustang in MA.

I’m only looking for a cruiser though. Stock, convertible, unique.
 
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That’s NICE!!
 
Still looking into that Saleen. Wife is giving me the stink-eye on it though considering I’ve been complaining about wanting to get a new DD the last few months.


Anyway. AC system helps pressure fine. Didn’t lose any psi. Likely the last AC post til warmer weather when I can pull a DEEP vacuum and charge it and actually see if it works.


Played with the strut tower brace a bit.


Tight here. Will need to bend this AC hose up slightly




But here it is.




If I remove the front cap on the MC it clears fine. So I plan to just scallop out the underside of the brace and fill it in with welded material. This likely means I’ll need to repowdercoat the STB. Need to decide if I stay flat black or maybe do it the same as the intake? Maybe another color?

Marked where I need to start and end my underside cut

 
Before you cut: What about cutting the bracket where it joins to the cross bar and then re-welding it a couple of inches to the right closer to the strut tower? You might have to take some length out of the tube going back to the firewall, but it would keep the tube in tact at a constant diameter. The way it mounts with a single bolt seems like is has some room to rotate. You have a better view of the geometry in person so that may not be possible - not enough rotation to clear the second cap, but I just wanted to throw out another option.

That engine compartment looks great! I love how you went with the significantly upgraded and clean stock-ish appearance.

I have mixed feelings on the type of powder coating for the brace. I'm all for black because it blends in and leaves the focus on that gorgeous intake like a91what suggested. The issue is crinkle finish or smooth gloss. I've had both on different cars, and I like the look of the crinkle finish better and it seems more durable. The problem is that it can shred rags and paper towel when you wipe it down to clean up the engine compartment. A smooth gloss finish wipes clean easier, but also scratches easier. It's sort of a coin toss for me.

Good luck! Everyone looks really awesome!
 
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My original plan was to move the bar, but after looking at it in the bay and mocking it up with a piece of white pvc pipe, I wasn’t a fan of the potential finished product. I think keeping it where it is gives it symmetry.

Plus the gusset and the bends across make moving it over a little tricky. That AC hose also starts to get in the way.

 
Could you just cut the bar and add in swing outs like on a roll cage door bar?
 
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