The (edit “fumes”) from zinc in weld through primer and galvanized metals should not be breathed in while welding. Adequate ventilation without blowing sway the shielding gas is required if you do not want to feel sick from breathing in the fumes.
The metal itself should not be breathed in either, but that’s not usually a problem on this planet’s temp ranges. Oops!
The metal itself should not be breathed in either, but that’s not usually a problem on this planet’s temp ranges. Oops!
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Yeah, it’s nasty stuff. I get a good breeze with the garage door open and back door open, but I rigged a fan above the work area to blow the fumes out and would work quick while holding my breath and then back away til the fumes clear.
I won’t be using any more of this stuff. I got better welds on bare steel to steel welds
I won’t be using any more of this stuff. I got better welds on bare steel to steel welds
Wasn't aware that was zinc weld through. Same thing with galvanized metal, too
Welding: if you aren't burning or blinding yourself, have some fumes instead.
Has anyone here tried the UPOL weld through primer?
This guy on youtube is building a Camaro and I've been watching every vid. He's very meticulous in what he uses, even found new sheet metal showing up with rust in between some of the sandwiched panels. Lots of episodes to go through, and he's not the best at giving a vid description but I'm learning a ton (even if it's a bow tie):
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHSEpq-Hitg
U-POL Weld #2 - Weld Through Primers
U-Pol Weld #2 - Weld Through Primers are special types of products that have high adhesion and superior conductivity to help protect welding applications like SPOT, MIG, and TIG from corrosion. The two types of primers available have a high amount of zinc or copper respectively and are both...
www.autobodytoolmart.com
This guy on youtube is building a Camaro and I've been watching every vid. He's very meticulous in what he uses, even found new sheet metal showing up with rust in between some of the sandwiched panels. Lots of episodes to go through, and he's not the best at giving a vid description but I'm learning a ton (even if it's a bow tie):
This is what we use at work, it's better than most, but I still prefer bare metal to get a better weld
Also, I put this together for $50.
seller sold it as parts only because the faceplate was busted and a tape was stuck inside. Got it for $25. Found an NOS faceplate for $20. Got the tape out, tested it and it works.
into the pile it goes. I
seller sold it as parts only because the faceplate was busted and a tape was stuck inside. Got it for $25. Found an NOS faceplate for $20. Got the tape out, tested it and it works.
into the pile it goes. I
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So, planning the hydroboost setup with the ATS front and Taurus 43mm calipers.
This is a hydroboost issue, so don't correlate this to vacuum setups.
The 2004 Cobra hydroboost uses a 1 1/16" bore MC. When installing the ATS and 43mm rears, you are increasing the surface area of all the pistons being used. Normally they requires an MC upside in bore diameter. Except there isn't one with hydroboost.
Except there is now.
That's an expensive ass master cylinder. But, it would be technically "right" for the brake setup. Why are cars such money pits?
We will try the oem hydroboost MC first
This is a hydroboost issue, so don't correlate this to vacuum setups.
The 2004 Cobra hydroboost uses a 1 1/16" bore MC. When installing the ATS and 43mm rears, you are increasing the surface area of all the pistons being used. Normally they requires an MC upside in bore diameter. Except there isn't one with hydroboost.
Except there is now.
That's an expensive ass master cylinder. But, it would be technically "right" for the brake setup. Why are cars such money pits?
We will try the oem hydroboost MC first
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BTW, I need to update you on the answer to this.
That's because apparently it was. When I was trying to install my lower K-member brace, in talking with MM and taking measurements, we discovered that my k-member was in fact bent. At some point in the car's life, the driver's wheel either hit something hard, or a curb, bending the rear of the k-member inward. The rear k-member pad was tweaked slightly, but I was able to fix that by bolting a 2x4 onto it and straightening it out. The MM k-member now bolts up fine.
But, it appears my k-member was bent on the driver's side putting the driver's side wheel slightly back in the wheel well. Good catch from back in the day.
i think the Fox one is spot Welded in a more complex way meaning it would be painful to try and dissect it. I believe it can be done. But SN cars do rust out as well, so not sure it’s worth it.
if someone didn’t have a donor at all, id day go out and find the same year span fox panel. 79-86, 87-89 and 90-93 and use that as your splice panel. Just ensure it’s a rust free donor and spray tons of frame coating inside.
the SN frane is probsbly easier to locate right now, but extra work to relocate the holes. Also, I have no idea when ford made the frame rail simpler internally. Could be 94, 96 or 99
Once again no work on the car being done due to social distancing on the lakes...
and when in Maine....
and when in Maine....
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