Anti-sneeze on any bolt that goes into aluminum is a really good idea. I prefer the big, silver crayon to the brush cap in a bottle because of less mess, (and maybe I color better than I paint.)
At least grease anything you want to come apart again. Steering and suspension are exceptions to that.
I really like the Molybdenum red stuff. I have been using different thicknesses on different things for a long time, and the auto shows have mostly been using it on wheel bearings etc. for a while now.
Withstands extreme temperature and pressure in wheel bearings, U-joints, and high-angle CV Joints
www.redlineoil.com
And I hate white lithium grease, AKA Lubriplate. It dries up, cakes, cracks and gums up stuff. For door mechanisms, I’m trying dry cable and chain lube next time. If it works on a garage door and chainsaw, it’s going to last at least a while.
The more rust I find the more convinced I am that I'll be doing a frame swap in the future. Gonna sand/POR 15 the bejeezus out of most the cart and see how long it lasts
IDK how a car that's been in western Washington state its whole life has this much rust
A co worker was trying to scrape up some rust from equipment that had been sitting on the floor. They were scraping away with a piece of plastic and I came in with PB/a wire brush and got rid of it in 2 seconds
Things I’m learning from this project are already paying off in other areas of my life
I’ve not used a wire brush wetted with a rust penetrant, but it might help keep the dust down.
(I really like liquid wrench’s results but not the smell).
I’ve not used a wire brush wetted with a rust penetrant, but it might help keep the dust down.
(I really like liquid wrench’s results but not the smell).