Need Help with Cam and Cylinder Heads Choice

[streetstang67]

I'm hoping to finish my car this summer, but that'll never happen. Realistically, I do want to finish my engine/drivetrain. Check my sig for current specs including rear (3.55) ratio. I'm also contimplating EFI, but due to $$$, I'll probably stick with a carb if I can make everything work together reliably. The goal for this car is to be a reliable, practical, and fun weekend car; good for long drives, short drives and mabye daily driving from time to time. My basically stock 289 just isn't "doing it" for me, I need more power. I'm definately going to get a cam. Along with the cam, I need matching Heads. I don't have the $ to spend 1000+ on heads, but I am willing to have mine machined, etc. it that'll work. What do you suggest for cam and heads to match the rear and hopefully stay away from tq. converter if possible.?

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

If I were you I would invest in the heads once and be done with it. It's pricey but a set of crappy heads cost at least half the price. You will not be disappointed on the investment and that will allow you to grow in the future. The cam is cheap and you won't have to worry. If you do decide to go cheap I recommend some 351W C9AE orDOOE heads worked over with a matching cam and you could be decent. You will definatnly want an intake to go with it all the performer is garbage. I would recommend a Weiand Xcelerator and you will definantly feel a kick in the pants increase.

 

[streetstang67]

What kind of headwork could be done to my current heads? What cam would match? And finally, is the performer really that bad? Could I just add a spacer or something?

 

[restomod22]

What kind of headwork could be done to my current heads? What cam would match? And finally, is the performer really that bad? Could I just add a spacer or something?

The Performer is almost the same as stock. I'm dumping mine for an Air Gap this weekend. I agree with the other poster, spend the money now for a good set of heads, instead of buying cheaper ones only to want to upgrade later.

 

[Pbum5]

What kind of headwork could be done to my current heads? What cam would match? And finally, is the performer really that bad? Could I just add a spacer or something?

I was on a budget when I had my heads reworked. Luckily my neighbor at the time was machinist, and did the work for very cheap.
I had my stock 289 heads ported and polished. Installed screw in studs, guide plates, Comp Cams double springs, steel retainers w/ 10-degree valve locks, and Stainless Steel 1.94 and 1.60 valves. I ran a Comp Cam 292 Cam. It was 4 speed so I could get away with not having to change stall converters and I did not have power brakes.
The point it that after all that work they probably still are not as good as a NEW set of after market heads. To do all that work at retail prices would also be near or more than the price of NEW heads.

If you don’t want to go the full aluminum route maybe some Iron heads might be best for you. Complete World heads are $ 939. Or for a bit more you are in Aluminum range.

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...earchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp


Maybe a Comp Cams 260 or 268 might be best for you.

It never ends. You just want to make a slight improvement and next thing you know you are in to you car for a lot of $$$$.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Well I will agree that the compcams is 268H is what I would recommend. Probably don't want ot go above 270H personally that is what I would run. As far as cylinder heads I would search you could manage to find some AFR 165's for $1000 on corral. You will spend close to that for nothing on working your stock cylinder heads. Just don't want to spin that engine too high. Past 5500 rpms could mean trouble on stock bottom end. I would recommend ARP Rod bolts if you can afford doing it. Then you can have fun car with peace of mind.

 

[streetstang67]

what about a cam that would work well with my heads as they are now?

or, could the heads be machined for more compression and still fit the current intake?

 

[LMan]

you cant get too weird on a cam with (near) stock heads and a stock TC. A Performer cam or something similar is what you are looking at, prob ~214 @ .050 to keep decent vac and drivability.

You can also try to find some C90E or D00E heads *cheap* for a boost....they are only cost-effective if really cheap...but they are now, since reasonably-priced iron aftermarket heads have flooded the market. If you do this, you will lose ~.5 - 1 points in compression due to the larger chambers.

I havent kept up w Edelbrocks cams, check to see their current specs.

 

[Dark Knight]

fwiw, I have a set of 66 289 heads, ported with SBC valves, still dont flow close to the AFR 165's I have..

my vert actually runs better with the performer than the RPM.. but I did some port work to it..

 

[streetstang67]

what about milling for compression?

 

[302 coupe]

why? There would be an insignificant difference in performance at your level.

 

[bnickel]

don't worry about milling the heads you should have 58cc chambers on the heads you have you don't really want to go much smaller than that or you will be shrouding the vlaves and making hot spots in the chambers. i'd look at a set of world products windsor jr's and probably a comp 270h or something in xtreme energy line. for the intake i'd lose the performer and go with a weiand stealth, much better intake, but the performer will work with the heads and cam above, you can change intakes any time you want in a weekend and still have plenty of time for tuning, etc. id still recommend going with the holley pro-jection kit, driveability will be much better and mileage will probably be a lot better as well. you should be able to heads, cam intake and pro-jection for 2 grand or less, a grand or so without the pro-jection