Trying to get my car ready for pinks allout this summer and need to get my car to at least 12.99 to be able to race. I want to do this without juice. How and what could i do? I currently have a 99 gt stock motor with underdreive pullies, spec aluminum flywheel, king cobra clutch, and a built rear end and run 13.4s and 13.5s. What do you guys suggest? I was looking into upgrading injectors to maybe 30 lbs, i know i have to get a new mass air, what else would i have to upgrade to do that install. I have above average wrenching skills and can do most of the installs myself? Thanks in advance stangnet members:SNSign:
need some advice
- Thread starter ninjastang125
- Start date
02nightmaregt
To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
Ok well first free up that exhaust w/ some lt's, midpipe, and catback. A short throw will help. If you just want to drop your e.t., you could do some weight reduction and remove the front sway bar. There is no need to upgrade injectors or MAF. Remember suspension is huge when trying to lower et. If you're running 13.4-5's with just whats in your sig, than your doing pretty good.
02nightmaregt
To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
Just a mid pipe probably wouldn't yield the power you're looking for at the track. If you did Long tubes too than it would help.
squeak93
15 Year Member
I dropped .3 just from a mid pipe swap.......
Tires are you friend. Get some big and littles. Drop more weight off the front of the car. If u havn't already move ur battery to the trunk. Get some Lower and upper rear control arms for even more traction. U can get to where u want on just susp/tires and weight loss alone. Oh, a mid pipe is a must as well. Long tubes and a nice o/r pipe will go a long way as well.
Tires are you friend. Get some big and littles. Drop more weight off the front of the car. If u havn't already move ur battery to the trunk. Get some Lower and upper rear control arms for even more traction. U can get to where u want on just susp/tires and weight loss alone. Oh, a mid pipe is a must as well. Long tubes and a nice o/r pipe will go a long way as well.
98COBRA281
10 Year Member
Stark77
Member
HiTec stage 2 cams alone will get you to 12.99 I think. If you have the cash for an intake manifold + cams + longtubes that would be even better. HiTec stage2 cams don't require upgraded valve springs and they have gotten several people with basic bolt ons into 300+ rwhp.
Or you can get NOS for a fraction of the price.
Or you can get NOS for a fraction of the price.
SaleenGT2001
Well-Known Member
spray it.
it will be cheaper and easier to reach your goal.
good luck on getting into the pinks all out race. all 430 spots filled up here in less than 20 min
it will be cheaper and easier to reach your goal.
good luck on getting into the pinks all out race. all 430 spots filled up here in less than 20 min
SaleenGT2001
Well-Known Member
spray it.
it will be cheaper and easier to reach your goal.
good luck on getting into the pinks all out race. all 430 spots filled up here in less than 20 min
it will be cheaper and easier to reach your goal.
good luck on getting into the pinks all out race. all 430 spots filled up here in less than 20 min
You definitely need to do some exhaust work as that will free up some E/T and you will notice it every time you ride in the car 
Can't go wrong with some light weight wheels (skinnies in the front and a 15" rim out back) as rotational mass is never good. What kind of 60' times are you cutting currently?
Can't go wrong with some light weight wheels (skinnies in the front and a 15" rim out back) as rotational mass is never good. What kind of 60' times are you cutting currently?
squeak93
15 Year Member
squeak93
15 Year Member
105 is more than enough to hit 12.90. I traped 104 and ran 12.90s running like poo.
Suspension is your friend. It will go a long way trust me. Simple HPM Mega jr's/FRPP lca will do it. Long tubes and o/r midpipe. Sticky tires. I used bfg drag radials and the worked great. Fit stock wheels pretty good too. Or u can go big and littles for even more.
Do some testing and I bet u find urself well into the 12's.
Suspension is your friend. It will go a long way trust me. Simple HPM Mega jr's/FRPP lca will do it. Long tubes and o/r midpipe. Sticky tires. I used bfg drag radials and the worked great. Fit stock wheels pretty good too. Or u can go big and littles for even more.
Do some testing and I bet u find urself well into the 12's.
What he said. You're already in the 12's, in theory.
Sticky tires, maybe some 15" steelies from a V6 for the front, and pull the sway bar. Test, Test, Test.
thanks for all the help im going to upgrade my suspension for better launches my problem is i accelerate quickly but its seems as my power dies off at the top end what could i do about this? i would like to fet as good as a time as possible not just 12.99 i just need that time to be able to race my car there. im not a big fan of nitrous and really dont want to use it. what lift cams with stock heads should i buy
If you're really serious about drag racing it, I'd start with tires and traction and run, run, run it until you're sure you've squeezed every last tenth out of your current combo.
There is no sense in throwing mods at the car if you're not understanding how each is helping you. Seat of the Pants or guesstimates don't count, unless you're verifying gains by dyno (expensive and not as fun) or at the track (cheaper, unless you break, and more fun.)
If you are shifting at redline and feel like you're dropping power up top, its because you are. The PI GTs make power closer to redline than the non-PI GTs, but they don't pull all the way to redline the way an LS1 would.
If you've dynoed the car, I found that shifting 10% above peak hp is a good rule of thumb (at least as a starting shift point until you can make multiple passes and see what works.) If you haven't dynoed it, just trying lowering your shiftpoints and seeing how it responds. Shifting at redline will cost you precious hundreths of seconds, and that counts at the top of the track.
There is no sense in throwing mods at the car if you're not understanding how each is helping you. Seat of the Pants or guesstimates don't count, unless you're verifying gains by dyno (expensive and not as fun) or at the track (cheaper, unless you break, and more fun.)
If you are shifting at redline and feel like you're dropping power up top, its because you are. The PI GTs make power closer to redline than the non-PI GTs, but they don't pull all the way to redline the way an LS1 would.
If you've dynoed the car, I found that shifting 10% above peak hp is a good rule of thumb (at least as a starting shift point until you can make multiple passes and see what works.) If you haven't dynoed it, just trying lowering your shiftpoints and seeing how it responds. Shifting at redline will cost you precious hundreths of seconds, and that counts at the top of the track.
squeak93
15 Year Member
I have found 5500 is a good spot for a stock car with o/r x and weld in mufflers. (4.30 gears to). I had about 150 runs in that car and found that was the best (Btw I started my shift at 5500 so it was more like 5650ish.)
Don't run to red line. Bad idea. U can buy a plenum and t/b and get a few more rpms but not red line still.
Most stage one cams will help a stock motor quite well, but need a t/b plenum combo.
Don't run to red line. Bad idea. U can buy a plenum and t/b and get a few more rpms but not red line still.
Most stage one cams will help a stock motor quite well, but need a t/b plenum combo.
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