New best ET (can it get better)

[red95aodevert]

I have a new best personal ET that I made on 6-30. My car is basically stock other than:

4:10's
B&M 3000 stall converter (junk)
UD pullies
1 5/8 headers with 2.5" H-pipe, flowmasters and 3" dumps
JMS custom chip (because of the 4:10's)
BFG Drag Radials

It is a AODE vert so it was very slow to begin with. After I got the chip last year I had a best of 14.84 @ 90.14 MPH 60ft. 2.129. When I went out last week I did everything as I normally would other than I really heated the DR's up real good and launched at about 2,400 RPM. My run was 14.651 @92.02 60ft. 1.964 and the icing on the cake was my best RT of .511. My question is given my mods do you think this is as good as it gets or is there something more. I currently have 24LB injectors, a C&L 73mm Mass Air Meter and adjustable FPR to add in the future with H/C/I. Would there be any benefit to adding the 24's, meter, FPR and an intake spacer now or should I wait.

Current shift points are 5400 1-2, 5200 2-3.

 

[SuperDust22]

I would wait on the injectors 24# would be sort of an over kill. That is a really nice time you have. Mostly due to your 60'. Your mph is low though. When I just had my CAI, shift kit, 373 and some exhaust I ran a 14.9 at almost 94 mph but I had a 60 of 2.2. I haven't been back to the track since the intake install. What is the Mass Air calibrated for 19# or 24# injectors? I like to see AODE guys get good times.

Dustin

 

[yellow5.0cobra]

those times are hideous and wrong.

something is definantly wrong somewhere.

 

[Stump1000]

I'd say your about right on for an aode

 

[yellow5.0cobra]

that is DEFINANTLY NOT right on.

he should be at LEAST 14.2.

but then again, he got too high of a stall for this combo. 2400stall would be SOOO MUCH BETTER.


plus he got DR's and some host of bolt ons, that time is not good.

this isnt the honda forum where high ET's are the norm.

 

[Stump1000]

well, for one.. aode's suck, and there's a lotta variables that make a big difference in ET. Its hard to get on here and argue with someone over 6 or 8 tenths of a second. Whats the elevation of the track where he runs? What kinda engine temp is he running? If its a cool motor with an iced intake it would be a lot stronger. You see my mods in my sig. I know my car will run 14.20's like it is. My car is also a 5 speed with the same mods as his

 

[SuperDust22]

Yeah aode suck ass. He does have a stall converter though which helps out alot and with the 4.10s I can see where to 60' is coming from but with the kind of low mph it seems your car starts to die at the end. I am guess that is becuase of the 4.10s. Do you have a shift kit at all?

 

[Stump1000]

Whats your 1/8th mph?

 

[SuperDust22]

not to menton aode's can be hard to launch will out a trans brake. And yellow5.0cobra is right a 3000 stall is a little high right now. Once you get your car to breathe better the stall will work better for you. You are not makong the power that high yet.

Dustin

 

[red95aodevert]

Wow! I was gone for a whiel and have many responses:
Dustin- Thanks for the opinion on 24# injectors. Mass air is currently for 24 but I can get a smaller tube for it. My MPH is low. I think my fuel pump is going weak, do you know if that could be the cause?
Super Stallion- Sorry my car doesn't measure up to your expectations. When I bought it it ran a 15.6 95 AODE convertable they don't get much slower, so I am pleased with the progress. Thanks for the opinion on the stall but I am still building my car and hope to grow into it more.
Super Stanger- Car does die, as I told Dustin, teh fuel pump is showing signs it's getting old, could this be a problem? No shift kit.
Stallion- I will post all stats tomorrow (info is at work).

Thanks again.

 

[SuperDust22]

When you say Super Stallion you mean yellow5.0cobra right and Super Stanger would be Stump1000. Your pump could be the problem but I doubt that. I would still take a look at it though. Like Stump1000 asked what was your 1/8 mph? Your mph is most likely low because of your gears. Without an intake when you get in the higher rpms your car just doesn't have the HP. You might be able to get away with putting on the mass air meter and the injectors and putting on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and then turn down the fuel pressure until you get an intake or head and cam. Get a shift kit too. And if you can watch the videos in my sig. Look how my car grabs 1st to 2nd. The whole back end comes out.

Dustin

 

[SuperDust22]

And give a complete list of you mods. Do you have a CAI or anything?

 

[red95aodevert]

1/4 mile stats:

run 1 run 2
.745 .511 RT
2.129 1.964 60 ft
6.076 5.942 330 ft
9.417 9.304 1/8 ET
72.94 73.16 1/8 MPH
12.344 12.205 1000 ft
14.84 14.651 ET
90.14 92.02 MPH

Only other mod that was not listed above is K&N filter, no CAI. I should clarify that this is my daily driver in the summer. It is a convertable GT AODE with all the options and nothing was taken out (spare tire, back seat and such) when passes were made and I'm not exactly skinny (230lbs.). I imagine if I lost the AC and power options removed the jute and bought a short belt I may be close to a high 13 but then it wouldn't be a car I drive often.

 

[SuperDust22]

Did you take out the silencer? The 73mph is still kinda of low. But I really think if you got an intake that thing would really wake up. And a shift kit.

Dustin

 

[SuperDust22]

Oh and next time you go to the track, take out your front seat and spare and you can run a short belt. You can put all that back on when you get home. You have a really high race weight I am guessing. Maybe that is why you mph is so low. You could also do some free weight reduction mods like remove the dogbone weight, etc.

 

[yellow5.0cobra]

silener isnt going to WAKE IT UP LOL
how much does the car weigh?

i'd keep all the junk in the car as you would be driving it daily... its not like if you decide to race someone... oh yea hold on let me remove my seats, spare tire and junk out the back... and oh yea let me run around town for a little so my gas could be close to Empty.

judging by your times... it sounds like you are about 230hp to the wheels more of less a couple HP.

 

[Black95GTS]

silener isnt going to WAKE IT UP LOL

We're gonna give him the benefit of the doubt and say he means a new intake manifold.

While I dont consider myself much of a bench racer, and I rarely chime on these posts, I agree with yellow 5.0 on this. Removing the silencer will get you roughly 2 horsepower to the rear wheels on a cold day. Before we start talking about stuff he can add to his car, I think he should tune what he's got first to get it running right.

 

[SuperDust22]

I said if he got an intake it would really wake it up. I meant intake manifold. And it is easy just to take out the spare tire and other junk out of the car before racing. The front seat is a little harder but if he wants to get a better ET it is a cheap way to get there.

Dustin

 

[yellow5.0cobra]

but whats the point of doing all this temporary removal if only when he gets home hes slow again?

i would understand if he did this to a dedicated race car, but its pointless to do all this removal only to add on the weight again and gain the ET's you shaved off again.

throw that thing on the dyno...

like i said i will bet $20 that you can be making 225-230rwhp easily... only problem is its not getting to where it should be... the rear wheels(its somewhere, just not there).

 

[SuperDust22]

I just take everything out because it takes five minutes. I do not have a dedicated race car by any means. I just like to get the best ET while I am there. That's when I run higher timing and better gas. And when I get home I put the stuff back in the car and put the timing to 8. I don't really race or drive fast on the street. I am too scarred of getting a ticket. And I completely agree with you about the dyno thing. I don't go to the track that often but when I go I try to make the best of it. And red95aodevert do you know where your timing is at?

Dustin