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5.0notslow said:

@90lxwhite I plan on doing weld in full length sub frame connectors and torque box reinforcements before the paint.
@FoxMustangLvr thanks for the advice. I'll be checking it out on Thursday hopefully. I don't have air tools so I may have to see of the body shop I take it to can fix that for me.

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It shouldn't take a body shop long at all the adjust the fender and door alignment. It's something a shop would have to do anyways if they were to paint your car so you're taking care of that expense now. I'm assuming you'll get a paint job where they spray the car while the car is still complete (minus some trim), which if done right is still a decent/good paint job.

I would talk to the shop and see what they think is worth it for you to do. Some places do not like when customer do any prep work, as most guys do not know how to tape, mask, or prep a car for paint.


That being said, you can some prep like tape off the weatherstripping, 1/4 windows and inside the jambs, hatch area., remove all the emblems, head and tail lights, mirrors, cowl wipers, cowl cover, moldings. Be very careful with the moldings as they tend to break. I use molding removal plastic tools and there is a special molding removal tool for the outside window A pillar pieces that slides in and engages the clips. The upper door molding are easy to remove- one phillips head at the back of the molding when you open the door. The little bullet door molding pieces are held in with two little clips on the inside of the door skin.

Here is a link to Jrch's blurb for reading codes

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/dont-know-how-to-explain-really.880066/#post-8859307