new short block on the way

lol oh I will I'm still waiting to get my block:mad: then once my work bonus comes i get my heads I'm leaning towards the e streets cuz those trickflow heads that FIVEOHWBLOW posted are 950 per head lol not for both. almost had me.
 
so i was looking at cams earlier and I looked at both the trickflow stage 1 and stage 2 the stage 1 is a lil on the small side stage 2 is to big.
I started looking at comp cams and they have a huge veriety of cams my question is is anybody running a comp cam with sumthing along the lines of my build:shrug: thanks again for all the help guys. And once i get the block and heads there will be plenty of pics:D lol
 
The block showed up to day and let me tell you I could not be happier. If anybody is thinking of going this route do it. Cant wait to get more parts, The only thing is that im missing the male peaice the allows the oil filter to be screwed on any one know what its called? Oh and where to get a high volume oil pump, and one more question any body have an opinion on the block color:)
 
For the male piece for the oil filter, call Competition Products, they might have it. Another thing to check for is dowels. There should be 2 dowels for the transmission, 4 dowels for the cylinder heads, and two dowels for the timing cover. You usually have to buy these as part of a "Finishing Kit."

Competition Products

You can get a Melling High Volume Oil pump. It's a part number M-68HV. I usually get them at Advance Auto locally, because then if I have to warranty it out, it's a lot quicker than shipping it back to Summit. Price is about the same, around $40.

Kurt
 
my understanding is that the only time a high volume oil pump is needed is when you are planning on adding on something that has an oil feed, like a blower for example. then you would also be advised to get a larger pan because you definately don't want to pump the pan dry.

if you aren't planning on boosting it, then a standard volume pump is fine.
 
ok well ive just ordered all my oiling system needs pump,pick up tube,oil pan, oil presure sending unit,ARP oil pump shaft, and oil pan gasket. So that pretty much takes care of the bottom end so it can be all put togather :D and get this motor rollin. So i think i found my cam I havent called comp cams yet but i just happend to stumble on it here are the specs.
1985-95 Mustang 5.0/5.8L Comp Xtreme Energy Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller, Fw Xe270hr-12 by Comp Cams

This cam is intended for Mass Air Equipped 86-95 Mustangs with Good Flowing Cylinder Heads, Intake Manifold, and Headers. Perfect for a "bolt-on" Modified Mustang. Your Mustang needs a minimum of a 3.23-3.73 rear-end.

Comp Cams Xtreme Energy XE270HR

For use with 1.7 Roller Rockers

Hydraulic Roller camshaft for use with 1.7:1 rockers. Mild modifications, 3.20 - 3.73 gears, larger throttle body and mass air, good heads and manifold.

270/276 advertised duration

218/224 duration @ .050"

.544/.544 lift (with 1.7 rockers)

112° lobe seperation angle

1800-5800 RPM operating range


what do you guys think?
 
:( no good I think new stock parts should be good enough right? Any opinons on block color?

The block color gets kinda muted out on our motors to me...we have so much peripheral crap you really dont see much...I choose Black as it's easy to touch up. Depends on your choice of intake/VC color and such... I went with mostly Aluminum colors on my parts. Alot of the block is gone once you add your front brackets/accessories. Bout the only area that shows is under your heads...unless your gonna do a wire hiding job and maybe have no AC ???

For example here's mine all built...you see jack once the AC bracket goes on...

built2_1_1.webp
 
so long as you realize (and are ok with it) that it won't be optimal until you upgrade the heads, i can understand your thought process here. it's definately easier to replace the heads with the engine in the car than it is to replace the cam. i think it makes sense to install the final cam now before the engine goes in the car.

... so long as you realize (and are ok with it) that it won't be optimal until you upgrade the heads ...
 
:nono: lol im doing aluminum heads im doin Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads thought i mentioned this on an above thread here are the specs.

Application. The Edelbrock E-Street Aluminum Cylinder Heads are designed to be a direct bolt-on for 1986 to 1995 5.0L Ford V8 engines.

Specifications:

* Combustion chamber volume - 60cc
* Intake runner volume - 170cc
* Exhaust runner volume - 60cc
* Intake valve diameter - 1.90"
* Exhaust valve diameter - 1.60"
* Valve stem diameter - N/A
* Valve guides - Manganese bronze
* Deck thickness - 5/8"
* Valve spring diameter - 1.25"
* Valve spring maximum lift - 0.550"
* Rocker stud - 3/8" with guide plate
* Guideplate - Hardended steel
* Pushrod diameter - 5/16"
* Valve angle - N/A
* Exhaust port location - Stock
* Spark plug fitment - 14mm x 3/4 reach, gasket seat

Technical Notes. Use with hydraulic camshafts .550" max lift. Recommended spark plugs 14mm x 3/4" reach with flat gasket seat. Requires hardened pushrods. 289-302 cid with 7/16" head bolts requires #9680 head bolt bushing kit. 1.90" heads are ideal for stock pistons; 2.02" heads require additional piston to valve clearance.

By the way RIO5.0 that motor is breath taking lol
 
I took pics last night and hey will be up today girlfriends B day comes first lol
Revhead347 its ok lol. The cam seems pretty healthy but im wondering how the computer will like it? But it will be tuned no matter what on a dyno.
 
My FTI cam has more lift and the same LSA at 112...mine runs fine. I do get low speed bucking in 1st or 2nd, but had that with my Steeda 19 cam...I still run a the stock puter and its fine...Not saying a chip wouldn't help.

Your doing a chip so I won't go into other things you would get....:D