New steering wheel pic!

Do like this genius did and take the whole column cover off! Looks more tech-y

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WTF is wrong with that guy, is he color blind or something?????:bang: :notnice: :lol:
 
Therian - By newer model do you mean "new edge" or s197. I will have to look into that either way, I have alway hated the headlight know and wiper/signal knob controls. They are ugly, and bulky, but I guess I am stuck with the wiper/signal controls but I will look into the headlight knob.

I meant "new edge"...I would imagine that the S195 wouldn't be compatible.

Let me know if you come up with any ideas...mine is totally nasty, and I could use something to make it look cleaner. From what I recall, the wiper/signal arm is pretty expensive to buy new...I don't think we'd have any luck with replacing it unless another ford arm is compatible...

it'd probably still be ugly though :shrug:
 
the MGW one looks like its good quality. mayve paint the outside parts black and leave the center silver

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It's been awhile but it seems to me:

The horn should have one wire leaving going to the relay. I'd create a jumper wire to ground on the other horn button terminal (so you ground the OEM wire when the horn button closes the circuit). Tom can verify if that sounds about right. You can probably use an OEM ground wire so a jumper/rig-job isn't even needed.

I like a black and/or brushed look for a headlight knob. It's classy that you don't go for all that chrome stuff (IMHO one either has to do it all the way or not at all).
 
In MD, you are NOT REQUIRED TO HAVE AN AIRBAG on a pre 1998 vehicle last time I checked. Don't know about other states..

I really like it!!! BUT the fitment onto the column would bug the hell out of me. Anyone have links to a better way to fit that wheel or the other one in that green stang with some sort of fitment kit? I like the look overall.
 
I thought the horn wire was in the clock spring wire thingy. I desrtoyed the harness on that thing putting the wheel on so this could get messy? Wait now I remember...the MOMO hub blocks oiff all the wiring to the center clock spring wire thingy,etc. On the back of the hub there are shiny metal rings that you could maybe soder some wire to? I think those rings were meant to have brushes of some sort or some other contact dohickeys rub against them (so the rings spin with the hub, but the other end is always in contact so you dent endup with twisted wires snapping/fraying) which is completely different from what we have on stangs...69 clark should know what I'm talking about since he just did the install. This prolly makes no sense to anyone else. I will find pics if I can. I may just end up wiring a horn button on the dash...I dont use it much anyways.
 
I just went and took a peek at schematics to make sure this is as accurate as possible (in the event that my memory was bad). It looks like my last post was accurate. The horn relay receives a ground input from the horn button.

The part that will be hinky is dealing with the adapter and however it's slip-ring is configured. (By slip-ring, I'm referring to what some might kinda call a clockspring - it's a metal wafer on an aftermarket wheel hub. It normally has a wire soldered to it to allow a horn connection to be maintained with a steering wheel. On a stock wheel, its equivalent is an electrical connector and 3+ rings/circuits in the slipring, IIRC. It's been awhile since I looked at the back of a stock wheel though.

Anyhow, you simply need to attach a wire inside the cavity that the horn button covers. I've slipped a wire under a mounting bolt that connects the wheel to the adapter, etc to achieve this. This goes to one side of the horn button. Then with a normal steering wheel adapter, there's a wire coming from the slipring (metal wafer deal) up to the area of the horn button; connecting this finishes the wiring.
Do your adapters have a provision for this wire? As Go-stang noted, that's the crux since you cant run wires outside the wheel.

I have all the stuff for the fox laying out so I can take pictures of the 'slipring' and all that if needed. And in a week or so hopefully I'll be removing the 94's steering wheel and can take a look at what's going on inside there.

Sorry to not remember how things are better. If this were for a fox III, I'd be able to give exact wire colors and continuity testing for you to keep your cruise control and everything. I normally just have to check schematics and do lots of meter testing to figure out what is needed though.

This didnt help much - let me know where I was too ambiguous, along with any extra info about any wiring provisions that can be done with your hub adapters.
 
Does anybody make a racing steering wheel that you can still have cruise control? I want to switch to a racing steering wheel on my fox coupe but, don't want to sacrifice my cruise control.

I am doing it very soon on the '88. I have all the wiring mapped out (I'm going with a Saleen-style CC mount) and just need to get some time to actually swap wheels and rewire things. I found no info about this when searching so I'll try and take pics and write a how-to about how to test the slipring terminals, how the aftermarket adapter needs to be modified, what wires to trace, cut, resolder, etc.