New technique to rolling a fender....will it work?

my66coupe

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
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Arizona fountain hills
I was thinking the other day, could you use a torch to heat up the metal, soften it and then bend it in? That would be a great way to get the fenders clear from the tire. I fear that if I use a hammer without heat, it will chip the paint. I used pliers/vice grips to get them to bend up half way, but knowing my luck, they still rub. Any thoughts or negatives to using the heat.... Also what if i simply just cut the metal clear off, with say...a dremel? Thoughts? thanks guys

Mike
 
my66coupe said:
I was thinking the other day, could you use a torch to heat up the metal, soften it and then bend it in? That would be a great way to get the fenders clear from the tire. I fear that if I use a hammer without heat, it will chip the paint. I used pliers/vice grips to get them to bend up half way, but knowing my luck, they still rub. Any thoughts or negatives to using the heat.... Also what if i simply just cut the metal clear off, with say...a dremel? Thoughts? thanks guys

Mike

If you use a torch, you'll probably peel the paint off. Cutting the metal clear is probably not a good idea either at far as looks go: it will be difficult to make it look as good as stock.
 
Well if i do cut it, the metal will be bent up, not revealing the cut. And a grinder would be used to smooth out any jagged edges. I was thinking the torch would hurt the paint, but I might try it in a inconspicuous spot and see what goes from there....any other thoughts??

Mike
 
I have never used heat or any special tools to roll fender lips. A boddy hammer and dolly is all that I have ever used and I can get them almost completely bent back on themselves this way if I choose. The secret is to go slow and do a little at a time the whole distance of the fender lip and then start again only moving it a very little at a time. This method works great and prevents you from making big mistakes that could irreparably damaging the fender or quarter panel.
 
Be careful when cutting, the end of the fender is two pieces. When you cut it you leave the ends open, good palce for rust to start forming. I reallly like the baseball bat trick. A wooden ball bat wrapped in beach towell, couple big guy sttting on the fender and roll the car back kand forth. We rolled the fenders on this car with that method..
wheels4.jpg
 
Ronstang said:
I have never used heat or any special tools to roll fender lips. A boddy hammer and dolly is all that I have ever used and I can get them almost completely bent back on themselves this way if I choose. The secret is to go slow and do a little at a time the whole distance of the fender lip and then start again only moving it a very little at a time. This method works great and prevents you from making big mistakes that could irreparably damaging the fender or quarter panel.

I know its all style and practice but how hard do you tap the metal.... is it a pretty good whack or just a light tap. I plan on doing this some time soon and wanted to get some idea the right way to do it bcause I dont want to sit there and never bend anything because I am too careful.

thanks

or I could use my head to do it --> :bang: :D
 
You have to hit hard enough to move metal but not bash it. Light taps should be fine and keep increasing the strength of blow until it moves the metal a little and then you have the right amount of force....it is a "feel" thing.
 
A torch will burn off the paint WAY before it gets the metal hot enough to become "soft".

I rolled my own fender lips and it came out great. Just follow the advice above.
 
Iv'e always used a baseball bat. It does a great job. DON"T cut it. I did try that on a junker for a test. The metal stretches were it is not cut, but where you cut, just bulges out and you see the point at which at every point. It looks horrible.
 
If you cut it you might run into bondo, if you cut bondo, it might start crumbling off under the paint, then your in for it. Same goes for the hammer, if you are too anxious and miss, you might hit too far over and chip bondo, if you have any. My car is a street ripper, don't care much for my paint job, I used a hydraulic jack handle and went to town. If I did that on a nice paint job, at the crease, the paint would start to crack and eventually flake off. Ronstang is correct, take your time, do it right. The basaeball bat didn't work for me, but I didn't have big guys sitting on the fender so maybe that'd do it. Good luck.
 
I still swear by my Eastwood fender roller. It took aprox. 10 mins. a fender, rolled flat and didn't hurt a thing. A friend of mine is using it now but if anyone would like to buy it from me I will make you an offer you can't refuse. Just let me know!!
I'll try and post pics of what mine came out like!
 
yeah I had the same question as MrBobMarley.... might be an interesting thought for those that need it they could pay a rental fee and shipping (if you trusted them) to use it for say two week period. I need to do a 66 mustang and a 66 impala (wifes car).

just a thought...
 
Billgear said:
Be careful when cutting, the end of the fender is two pieces. When you cut it you leave the ends open, good palce for rust to start forming. I reallly like the baseball bat trick. A wooden ball bat wrapped in beach towell, couple big guy sttting on the fender and roll the car back kand forth. We rolled the fenders on this car with that method..
wheels4.jpg


Damn that car has a great stance! :nice: