New to the Fox game

So to recap:

Currently I have a 93 LX with the stock engine. I am looking to replace with this engine, with the one sitting in my garage:

87-92 Stock 302, 1969 351W heads (hardened valves) milled/ refreshed, 93 Cobra 1.7RR, Crane cam (similar to B303), shorty headers, new water pump, seals

If I stick with this setup, consensus seems to be:

Keep 19lbs injectors, steel pre-bent fuel lines (due to extensive fitment issues with the AN lines), stock K-member, and upgrade suspension components with Maximum motor sports components (probably one of the packages) with the money saved from the K-member.

The other options is to replace the heads with something newer like the aluminum ones from Ford Racing, Trick Flow etc...

Does this sound about right? Point me in the right direction forum elders!!!!!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


If it were me, I'd use the engine you bought but get a set of heads for it. With a set of heads you'll likely need to get new injectors, 24# should work. I'd also definitely go through the engine to be sure it's up to snuff. Maybe it's just me, but I don't trust anyone's work by their word unless I know them well.

As for heads, here's a link for you to an article where they're looking for 350 HP. I realize this is a little more than you're looking at right now, but it's also another resource you can reference.


And here is a link to my post from last week about heads. There are a few different brands mentioned that would work nicely for what it sounds like your intentions are. There are also a few different links you can use for research.


As I stated in that thread, I'm leaning heavily toward a set of FloTek heads. They can be had for around $800/pair. There is a link to Speedway motors for those heads in that thread or here is Flo Tek's direct link. I've not researched deep enough to know which way is the cheaper route once you include shipping and taxes and such. I have a feeling direct from Flo Tek's site may be the way to go.

 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
It's hard for me to tell you to change your setup, because essentially i'd be telling you to start over.
I too have absolutely no faith in anything I didn't personally have some type of connection to.
I've gotten a lot of used things from my buddy who owned a mustang shop, but his machine shop was my machine shop so the paper trail was clear cut.

For simplicity, I really like the trickflow package.
All quality parts, all made to work together and it's all pretty much there i think other than the throttle body injectors (you need 24's), and a pro m meter calibrated for 24's.
You'll also need a 155lph pump.

Slapping a bunch of random parts together rarely works.
There is an off chance that they parts you have make less power, not more than a stock engine.

Heads are the basis for most of the power gains on 302, without them, nothing else you add will have much effect.
 
All valid points, thank you for chiming in. Because I have never done this before with an SBF ( im used to the B Series Hondas and such, all plug an play) I think that is sound advice. Going to have to re-think my strategy here. The cost of the trick flo setup is a about 1K shy of a brand new crate motor, think my wife would kill me if I had 3 engines sitting around.

Have to think this through, and where the best value for my money is. You all are correct that throwing in an unknown engine is a recipe for taking a ride on the money pit slope. I had that happend to me back in high school when I attemepted to build a 300zx with a friend.

Decisions decisions.....
 
I don't think you have to abandon your shortblock.
Maybe just have it checked out or if you are qualified, check it yourself.

It's just for me, it's a gamble to assemble and install it without knowing it's condition.

300rwhp should be the minimum goal of any build IMO.
It will be fun and quick with at least a little future proofing.
 
after thinking about it, I’m going to go with the truck flow top end kit and the engine rebuild kit from summit. Should be 3k total for the build. My friend who is a certified Volvo mechanic offered to help me build it and bring his tools that I don’t have. He agrees it’s a huge gamble to trust someone else’s work and a large waste of money should it not work out.

I’ll spend more upfront now, but it’ll pay off later. I appreciate all the input guys!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
So I have the old engine out, got rid of the SBF I originally bought and am starting again, this time with the stock block. The way I see it I have 2 options moving forward, any advice on which one might be better/ more cost effective?

Option 1. Take the stock block (needs to be cleaned, redone etc..) spend the money at a machine shop.
Option 2. Trade the old block in for a core charge (https://spprecision.com/products/ford-50l-302-short-block-engine-sale.html) for a fresh one and start there.

BTW has anybody heard of XP1 engines? Are they reliable or another BS supplier?

Now that I have my new plan thanks to all the comments, I can start on this after the Holidays when I get some more time.
 
I've never heard of them.
Price seems reasonable.

With that said, for an online purchase I prefer to stick with one of the bigger names, which will obviously cost more.
Or I just like to use someone reputable local. This way if there is an issue, it doesn't involve phone calls and shipping.
 
I've never heard of them.
Price seems reasonable.

With that said, for an online purchase I prefer to stick with one of the bigger names, which will obviously cost more.
Or I just like to use someone reputable local. This way if there is an issue, it doesn't involve phone calls and shipping.

I would prefer local but most of the machine shops I have called said it would be more cost effective to buy a new one online. I am not sure if its the area I live in (Alexandria, VA), but most of the shops are super pricey even for simple tasks. And of course the "custom" specialty car shops in the area charge ridiculous fees which is why I am leaning on just starting with a fresh block from an online source.