Now that just don't make no sense.....What does a tuning drive have to do with whether you have to sit down to pee or not?
Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread
- Thread starter 95BlueStallion
- Start date
All this time I thought the smaller the number, the leaner. Learn something new everyday.
Kinda odd that I’m running 30 lb injectors and it’s lean. It’s a baby headed 347... Thought I may have gone overkill with them.
Kinda odd that I’m running 30 lb injectors and it’s lean. It’s a baby headed 347... Thought I may have gone overkill with them.
That’s quite lean . Usually target 14.2-15.2 ish at idle depending on what the car wants .
My guess is my unplugged vac line from the valve cover to the throttle body. Only way it will idle steady right now. Plug it in and it surges like a MF. Guess I won’t be running it anymore until tuning time.
I spent my lunch break driving to the post office and back to work to get the Microsquirt which was waiting for my signature. Gotta love businesses that are only open during the hours you work. So I let my tuner know I got it and will be hooking it up. We discussed my unplugged breather hose and the lean condition. I will be playing with my TPS and IAC tonight to see if I can get it to idle properly with that vac hose actually hooked up. If I can, then I will be out going for some cruising this week to get some break in miles on the clutch.
I think you should move the wb sensor to a place where it will read correctly...
Put it in place of one of the factory sensors and see what it reads. No further than 12" from the collector on shorties and IN the collector on longtubes.
Put it in place of one of the factory sensors and see what it reads. No further than 12" from the collector on shorties and IN the collector on longtubes.
Sounds good, I will try that tomorrow.
I elongated the mounting holes of my TPS sensor and set it at .91 volts. It was originally at 1.2v. That did allow the car to idle well at 850 rpm with the vac hose plugged in from the breather to the throttle body. With that done, my AFR was exactly the same at idle. I went and bought a fuel pressure gauge to test my FP, but it came with the wrong fitting for the schrader valve. Said it was for Ford schrader valves, but apparently not my Ford...
I will swap the factory O2 and the wideband tomorrow and see what it says. I will measure how far from the collector it’s mounted, but it’s only 5 or so inches further downstream than the factory O2 sensor on the left bank. Also, I did do the calibration process, and it stated it was completed correctly (according to the blinking then solid green light.) May just recalibrate it tomorrow for giggles.
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I still don't buy adjusting the TPS voltage. It reads the initial voltage and sets that as baseline. The only time I could see it being a problem is when it peaks at 5v and the throttle isn't all the way open. But at that point, who knows.
I don’t know man. My car literally would not idle with that breather plugged into the throttle body before I adjusted it. But the electronics aspect on cars is over my head.
- Jul 7, 2005
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Settings it to the .99 volts thing is a fake but it does need to be below 1v so the computer doesn't think it's in part throttle.
Welp, I have 39 lbs of fuel pressure at idle at the schrader valve. Went to swap my wideband and factory O2 sensor as Steve had suggested, but my O2 sensor is already seized up in the brand new BBK h pipe. It threaded in by hand, and I snugged them with a wrench, but is coming out really hard. Headed to advance for some anti seize so when I get this b*tch out I don’t f*ck myself again.
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So I learned two things tonight. 1) Never be too lazy to install O2 sensors sans anti seize. My threads on both the bung and Motorcraft O2 sensor ended up fubared getting it out just to interchange with the wideband. I did swap the two threading them super lightly, and the wideband showed 13.x to 14.x at idle. 2) @a91what knows his 
.
That being said... Innovate’s instructions state to install the bung at least 24” down stream from the exhaust port on the head, but ahead of the H or X in the midpipe. Pretty vague... My initial install was only 4” downstream from the factory O2 sensor in the H. Where should I install the new one Steve? Where on the down pipe, and what orientation from the factory O2 sensor?
.That being said... Innovate’s instructions state to install the bung at least 24” down stream from the exhaust port on the head, but ahead of the H or X in the midpipe. Pretty vague... My initial install was only 4” downstream from the factory O2 sensor in the H. Where should I install the new one Steve? Where on the down pipe, and what orientation from the factory O2 sensor?
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how long until you get the standalone installed?? If you plan to run the car for any length of time on the stock ecu just ignore the WB reading for now and when ready for it place it in the factory O2 location.
The other thought i have is that the bung was very long before the installation, you can try cutting it down by about a 1/4 with a cutoff wheel. this will expose the O2 to more of the exhaust stream and may be just enough to get by for now.
The other thought i have is that the bung was very long before the installation, you can try cutting it down by about a 1/4 with a cutoff wheel. this will expose the O2 to more of the exhaust stream and may be just enough to get by for now.
