get the ford racing cable..its also comes with a brand new shift fork for 50 bucks...its stock oem
Then go with the Steeda cable if they're still made. Probably expensive, though, because they're adjustable, but I know they're quality.
The 'float shifting' technique also works when you've detontated a pressure plate by over-spinning it... I was 17, and I didn't know anything when I decided to engine brake by putting the car in 1st gear going around 65 mph. Didn't know how clutches worked, and thought I was good as long as I didn't let the engine over rev. I didn't realize that one you put the tranny in gear, the input shaft is spinning at that RPM regardless of the clutch. So I blew the pressure plate. A ford dealership replace the clutch, but I never got a look at it. So I don't really know why, but whatever I did to the pressure plate kept the clutch disc engaged to the flywheel.
Chris
Do they still produce the SN-95 cable? It may be cheaper than the Fox cable, and the only thing you have to do to make it work is cut off the plastic peice by the firewall. I don't know if it'll be cheaper than the MM or Steeda cable, though. It's also longer than the Fox cable and was easy to keep away from heat when I had twin-turbos that were between the heads and strut towers. I'd be surprised if Ford stopped producing these, already.
Been following your thread...motor looks great and I love the T-tops. Wanted to chime in on the clutch issue. I just did a rebuild a few months ago and used the Ram HDX too. Motor probably makes about 380-400fwtq (guessing here). Went to the track and had the exact same problems you had, with the addition that my clutch pedal would stay towards the floor. Long story short...my HDX pressure plate was bad. Lost spring pressure and wouldn't disengag fully at track. I thought it was the cable so I parked it for a few weeks, but finally got it out and drove it. Started slipping badly. Pulled trans and clutch, disc was fine. I've replaced it with a Spec Stage II now. I was very upset over the failure of the clutch. I expected to get more than 1500 miles out of it, and I allowed 500 miles for motor and clutch breakin. I hope yours is only the cable!
Anyway, sounds like problem solved.... What's next?
You should get the mechanical stuff done before paint. Working on a car with fresh paint is no fun
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