normal idle for e-303 cam?

[fox-gt]

My car currently idles around 600 to 700 RPMs. What should the idle be for my setup (see signature). It always feels like it wants to die when I come to a stop.

I have also read adjusting the fuel pressure and advancing the timing will help with this cam.

What should I try first?

 

[GreatWhite]

Turn the idle screw on the t-body?

 

[JChalfan]

My car currently idles around 600 to 700 RPMs. What should the idle be for my setup (see signature). It always feels like it wants to die when I come to a stop.

I have also read adjusting the fuel pressure and advancing the timing will help with this cam.

What should I try first?

I had an E303 in a '94 Cobra motor (1.77RR's). It idled pretty rough, I don't think it idled as low as 600-700. I want to say it was more like 800 or 850. It's been a couple years though so I don't remember for sure.

I ended up having to disconnect my IAC and just raise the idle with the idle screw. Something was screwey and the IAC kept making my idle surge really bad. Disconnecting it's not the right way to fix that problem, but it worked. Made cold starting a pain though.

Jeff

 

[savegoodautonfg]

Maybe your IAC was bad. probaly not right but just a thought.

So are these e303's any good?

 

[blkcobra50]

I recently built my 331 with the e303 w/1.7s. I like the cam alot. I love the way it sounds when idling but there is no way I would be able to a get 600RPM idle on this thing. I was very surprised that my computer didn't get angry with the cam, I was thinking I would need a tune badly but its seems to iddle fine around 800-850. The only thing I have noticed is that I got a hanging idle. It would idle around 1200 when I got up to a light then drop to normal idle a few seconds later. I played around with the IAC screw and got the idle to come down to 800 without it hanging but on cold start up it would surge and then die. I then turned the IAC screw out a bit more which seemed to solve the cold start issue but I have a slight hanging idle again.

As far as power, I like the power it make up around 4000+. I know my tires spin throughout 1st and 2nd so I think the ecam is a good choice if you can get the car tuned. I still need to talk to a guy that tunes these things. Most likely put it on the dyno too.

 

[Fett]

I have an e-cam and 1.7 rockers, when I first built the motor it idled horribly at 700rpms. So I set the idle to 1000rpms and it runs fine. Before setting the idle, it would surge horrible at initial startup, and when my e-fan would kick on at idle, it would surge.

So when the motor was normal op temp, I disconnected the IAC, adjusted the screw until it was at 1000rpms, reconnected the IAC. Then I checked voltage on my TPS and adjusted it to .9v. Now the car idles at 1000, but it doesn't surge, when the fan comes on the engine doesn't miss a beat. Runs much better now. Sure it idles high, but it runs smooth.

 

[mikey5.0]

Good thing iam carbed have mine set at 600Rpms nice

 

[Henceforward]

E-303

900 RPMs works great.

It seems that many people have trouble with the way their 5.0 Mustang idles. Symptoms are usually a stumbling or rough idle which may be the result of modifications, or any number of other factors that may contribute to the problem. Clogged Emissions Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valves or Idle Air Bypass (IAB) solenoids are often to blame. A bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) will cause the engine to “hunt” for a proper idle setting. If you are experiencing idle problems first check the IAB. If it has large amounts of carbon deposits in it you may need to clean it using regular carburetor cleaner. You will have to remove it to do this, DO NOT clean it while it is on the car! If you have checked to make sure that your EGR, IAB, and TPS are clean and properly set and you are still experiencing problems try the following:
1. Clear the EEC-IV’s idle memory by disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes.
2. Disconnect the Idle air bypass solonoid
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM with stop screw on throttle body (900 rpm works great with E303 or larger cam)
5. Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid*Optional — set TPS to 0.90 - 0.95 volts (Do not exceed 1.0 volts MAKE SURE!) Use a digital volt meter!
6. Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on.
7. Turn off engine for two minutes
8. Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with every accessory turned on.
9. Turn engine off again. Your computer should have now re-learned the new idle settings. This procedure assumes that you have a clean IAB valve. If it is carboned up then you may need to remove it and clean it with carburetor cleaner.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

I like 8-900 idle. If it won't idle that low adjust the idle for about 1k.

 

[Black1987Stang]

I would raise the idle up a tad but thats me, mines at about 800-850rpm, if u do raise the idle u need to readjust the tps also (I have a voltmeter and a timing light if u need it)...I dynoed the stang last night at my school...was at 277rwhp then bumped up the timing to 15 degrees and made 280.6rwhp...kept the fuel pressure at 42psi...I have a adjustable fuel pressure regulator ill sell u cheap if u want it if you dont have one. Btw I saw ur stang outside some restaurant today in hendersonville.

 

[TheUser]

I have an E303 in my GT in my sig. No surges, no hanging idle, no high idle, no dying at lights...perfect idle around 650-700 rpm. I used to have all of those problems, though. After verifying TPS settings and all of that, I bought the idle air adjuster at the local ford dealership for $35 and it lets you let some additional air past the throttle body without opening the butterfly and inreasing the idle. The adjuster was actually a recall item that ford put on Mustangs because it was cheaper to do than than to clean the IAC. My 1990 LX 5.0 has one of those on it from the recall.

It doesn't work for everyone, but it works for some. Worth the $35 in my book. I also stepped down from the 30's to the 24's when I built the enigne a few months ago. No more rich idle.

 

[fox-gt]

I have an E303 in my GT in my sig. No surges, no hanging idle, no high idle, no dying at lights...perfect idle around 650-700 rpm. I used to have all of those problems, though. After verifying TPS settings and all of that, I bought the idle air adjuster at the local ford dealership for $35 and it lets you let some additional air past the throttle body without opening the butterfly and inreasing the idle. The adjuster was actually a recall item that ford put on Mustangs because it was cheaper to do than than to clean the IAC. My 1990 LX 5.0 has one of those on it from the recall.

It doesn't work for everyone, but it works for some. Worth the $35 in my book. I also stepped down from the 30's to the 24's when I built the enigne a few months ago. No more rich idle.

I cleaned the IAC this weekend and bumped up the idle, it is a little better but I think I will give this a shot. Is the part listed below the one you mentioned?

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S1X50LUPI776181325014a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000081a

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-9939A 1&comp=LRS

 

[$uperstang]

The answer to your question is 850-950

 

[91notchback5.0]

I just gapped my plugs at .54 and that helped me.

 

[MAC'n89Blckstng]

DONT TOUCH THE IDLE SCREW!!!!!!! If you do this, you mess with the TPS readings, and then you run into problems that you cant really figure out. I messed with the screw when i first bought my car (i was 17) and now I cant get a good base reading from the TPS. Its all messed up which is why I think Im having bucking problems.

 

[MyBad70]

im running a E cam with 1.6s and idling at 9-950. really cuts up and gets attention at redlights

 

[Black1987Stang]

DONT TOUCH THE IDLE SCREW!!!!!!! If you do this, you mess with the TPS readings, and then you run into problems that you cant really figure out. I messed with the screw when i first bought my car (i was 17) and now I cant get a good base reading from the TPS. Its all messed up which is why I think Im having bucking problems.

Its easy as hell to readjust, all u need is a philips screwdriver and a voltmeter. adjust it to .98, tighten the screws back up and ur done

 

[fox-gt]

I have an E303 in my GT in my sig. No surges, no hanging idle, no high idle, no dying at lights...perfect idle around 650-700 rpm. I used to have all of those problems, though. After verifying TPS settings and all of that, I bought the idle air adjuster at the local ford dealership for $35 and it lets you let some additional air past the throttle body without opening the butterfly and inreasing the idle. The adjuster was actually a recall item that ford put on Mustangs because it was cheaper to do than than to clean the IAC. My 1990 LX 5.0 has one of those on it from the recall.

It doesn't work for everyone, but it works for some. Worth the $35 in my book. I also stepped down from the 30's to the 24's when I built the enigne a few months ago. No more rich idle.

I know this thread is old but I installed my adjuster plate last week. It made a major difference. No more surges or dying. Hopefully this will help someone else also.

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