Not another "which shifter" thread...

Notchthis · Oct 14, 2011

i think a better nob might help as well. something more substantial to really grab on to. I've got a hurst shifter (came with the trans when i did my swap) and i custom made a handle for it and use a pool cue-ball. I cant really give much review on different shifters because the hurst is all i've ever driven with on a t-5, but the shifts are pretty crisp. I think a lot of that has to do with the ball, because I've seen people rage on the hurst shifter (and I dont think I've ever seen anybody recommend it in the modern era haha).

heres a pic of my knob:

90lxcoupe · Oct 14, 2011

I think nic's handle is good, its definitly less bulky than the pool ball style ones

Mustang5L5 · Oct 14, 2011

Have to agree that the Mach 1 knob does make shifting "feel" more crisp. I like running it.

Right now, i have one of those ford racing 5-spd Cobra knobs. I like it as it feels great, but thinking of putting the mach 1 knob back.

Plus i like how the silver knob contrasts in an all black interior

Crappy Iphone 3G pic..

Ford Racing 5-spd

5.0Droptop · Oct 14, 2011

Nik it could just be the t5 getting tired....... I had trouble with my D&D upgraded t5 from power shifting it. I sheared off the 3-4 sync keys and broke the shift fork ear. I put billet keys back in to prevent key failure from happening again......

Anyhow..My ADD kicked in... My point was As the syncronizers wear out it will not like to shift fast.....

5.0Droptop · Oct 14, 2011

striker911 said:
Im for pro 5.0 and a Hurst "T" handle. Your handle looks good but seems like a bad choice for racing.

I have the pro50 power tower and a short stock handle with a B&M t handle... I like it.

90lxcoupe · Oct 14, 2011

When the 3rd synchro wnet in my TKO it bacame really easy to powershift and would grind every time i didnt double clutch it under regular driving. I dont think the transmission is his problem

5.0Droptop · Oct 14, 2011

90lxcoupe said:
When the 3rd synchro wnet in my TKO it bacame really easy to powershift and would grind every time i didnt double clutch it under regular driving. I dont think the transmission is his problem

So your saying what we all really think.... Nik is just a piss poor driver?

NIKwoaC · Oct 14, 2011

5.0Droptop said:
So your saying what we all really think.... Nik is just a piss poor driver?

Pretty much.

FastDriver · Oct 14, 2011

No, actually, there is definitely truth to what 5.0Droptop is saying. I was going to mention it at first, too. The same thing happened to me from powershifting in the TKO. I had it rebuilt and it shifted smooth as butter again. Now, after a couple years, it's time for me to go back through the tranny again.

Here is the most reasonable explanation I could find regarding my shifting issue.

It initially occured to me that this may be your problem, but I really want you to double check your clutch engagement first before you go replacing parts in the transmission unnecessarily.

TKO 600 transmission shifting problem

Chris

90lxcoupe · Oct 14, 2011

Lol, not really what i was trying to say. I think with some tweaking to the clutch adjustment and his driving style he will be good. Only problem is that if he listens to me the T-5 will break soon lol.

NIKwoaC · Oct 14, 2011

FastDriver said:
No, actually, there is definitely truth to what 5.0Droptop is saying. I was going to mention it at first, too. The same thing happened to me from powershifting in the TKO. I had it rebuilt and it shifted smooth as butter again. Now, after a couple years, it's time for me to go back through the tranny again.

Here is the most reasonable explanation I could find regarding my shifting issue.

It initially occured to me that this may be your problem, but I really want you to double check your clutch engagement first before you go replacing parts in the transmission unnecessarily.

TKO 600 transmission shifting problem

Chris

That's a TKO 600, not a T5, though. Would/could the same problem apply?

I dunno, I've driven a few T5s, and mine feels like any other. My current T5 was built by Astro Performance down in Florida, and it's always worked pretty well, and it's got some miles on it, but it's not "high mileage". I'm just not sure the trans is to blame here.

FastDriver · Oct 14, 2011

I like the way this guy explains how to check to make sure your clutch is properly adjusted.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — Synchro Wear

As far as clutch adjustment goes, I prefer to preload mine slightly at the track or on a race night, but I've been told you don't want to pre-load your clutch on a street car for a couple of reasons: causes excessive wear on the T/O bearing, and reduces the clamping force of the pressure plate.

Thoughts?

FastDriver · Oct 14, 2011

NikwoaC said:
That's a TKO 600, not a T5, though. Would/could the same problem apply?

I dunno, I've driven a few T5s, and mine feels like any other. My current T5 was built by Astro Performance down in Florida, and it's always worked pretty well, and it's got some miles on it, but it's not "high mileage". I'm just not sure the trans is to blame here.

I don't know, Nik. All I know is that with my TKO I definitely remembered wondering why it was getting harder to powershift - felt like I was hitting a brick wall and couldn't adjust the clutch enough to make a difference. I guess what I'm trying to pass along is that if you adjust the clutch and workout your technique and the problem still exists, then you should probably at least consider this, and talk to your tranny shop. I think that's like step 3 or 4 if the other fixes don't work. That's why I was hesitant to raise the point in the first place.

Plus, I'm no transmission pro. I've never disassembled them, myself. I think I understand the mechanics, but wouldn't be comfortable arguing the point with someone.

Chris

5.0Droptop · Oct 14, 2011

This is the interwebz.... Argue all you want....no one can see you

NIKwoaC · Oct 14, 2011

FastDriver said:
I like the way this guy explains how to check to make sure your clutch is properly adjusted.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — Synchro Wear

As far as clutch adjustment goes, I prefer to preload mine slightly at the track or on a race night, but I've been told you don't want to pre-load your clutch on a street car for a couple of reasons: causes excessive wear on the T/O bearing, and reduces the clamping force of the pressure plate.

Thoughts?

I have heard that too much tension on the cable (or, clutch disengaging too far from the floor) can damage the fingers on the pressure plate, because you're pushing it past it's intended range of motion. To what extent do you have to go before it causes damage? I have no idea.

The instructions that came with my Ram clutch said to adjust the clutch so that it disengages as close to the floor as possible while still allowing a clean shift.

The trans in this car is it's 3rd one under my ownership, and technically the 4th rebuild. I know what it feels like to have a broken T5, and I know what the parts look like when they're either worn out or broken. This trans has definitely seen a little abuse, and I'm sure the internals have a little wear, but I don't think it's to the extent that it is really the sole problem with my shifting.

NIKwoaC · Oct 14, 2011

FastDriver said:
I don't know, Nik. All I know is that with my TKO I definitely remembered wondering why it was getting harder to powershift - felt like I was hitting a brick wall and couldn't adjust the clutch enough to make a difference. I guess what I'm trying to pass along is that if you adjust the clutch and workout your technique and the problem still exists, then you should probably at least consider this, and talk to your tranny shop. I think that's like step 3 or 4 if the other fixes don't work. That's why I was hesitant to raise the point in the first place.

Plus, I'm no transmission pro. I've never disassembled them, myself. I think I understand the mechanics, but wouldn't be comfortable arguing the point with someone.

Chris

Understood, and I definitely appreciate the input!

5.0Droptop · Oct 14, 2011

Nik, I have always set my cable to start engaging about 2 inches off the floor and it normally has about 1 - 2 inches of travel to the top once clutch engages.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Oct 14, 2011

If it dosent rain wednesday, Ill have the nitto's sitting out for ya, just go ahead and take the sway bar off now lol.

5.0Droptop · Oct 14, 2011

Does taking the front sway bar off make a big difference? I have never did that.

skunk21 · Oct 14, 2011

5.0Droptop said:
Nik, I have always set my cable to start engaging about 2 inches off the floor and it normally has about 1 - 2 inches of travel to the top once clutch engages.

pretty much how I have always set mine.

Not another "which shifter" thread...

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