OBD 1 for Nov 84/85 5.0

On an EFI car, OBDI controls that same things as OBDII. The amount of data and types of data available are slightly different. Cars manufactured before 1986 had carbs on them and may not offer as much OBDI functionality as the 1986 and later EFI cars.

Your first step is to get a wiring diagram for his car. I' m lazy long about now, or I would go find it for you. AutoZone wiring diagrams can be found if you are willing to dig through the self help repair section of their website. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...3835D6CFF5E3A5037BBBD332CF445FF.diyprod2-b2c3

Once you have the needed diagrams, see if it controls anything else besides the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) and EGR (exhaust gas recirculation).

With knowlege in hand (or in your head) dump the codes. The following procedure works for 86-95 5.0 Mustangs, and should work for his car as well. Post the code results and I will try to help.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

Looks like it's an EEC-IV with OBD-I.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3

That's good. If it was an EEC-III, then that's a worthless POS system.

So, start with the basics:
1) GET A Ford EEC-IV code reader!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW/?tag=stangnet-20
Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader
Price: $24.99

IMHO, everything you try to do without reading the codes is likely a waste of time and money!


2) Is it a V8 - 302? Is it a carb, or CFI setup? The carbs in an EEC-IV carb systems are junk. Actually, all of those types of carbs are junk.


3) Ford didn't have EEC/check-engine lights in Mustangs until 87+. My '86 also will not show any fault in the EEC-IV system.

4) If it's not something simple/basic, then you'll really need advice from people that know the EEC-IV CFI/carb Stangs. IMHO, that means one place - foureyedpride.com (http://vb.foureyedpride.com/ ; http://vb.foureyedpride.com/forumdisplay.php?f=48).

Good Luck!