Get some all thread that will just fit the ID of the race and weld it up and slide hammer the 
out of it.
out of it.Engine Obstinate Pilot Bearing removal
- Thread starter FastDriver
- Start date
If the bearing race is hardened steel, I think it will work best welding similar hardened steel to it.
I’m a novice welder beginning just within the last few months. When practicing I quickly learned how much easier it is two pieces of the same metal together. When I tried mixing types of steel it didn’t work well at all. Albeit, that’s novice me with a $99 Harbor Freight flux core welder. It can be messy. An experienced welder with a MIG could handle this easily probably
I’m a novice welder beginning just within the last few months. When practicing I quickly learned how much easier it is two pieces of the same metal together. When I tried mixing types of steel it didn’t work well at all. Albeit, that’s novice me with a $99 Harbor Freight flux core welder. It can be messy. An experienced welder with a MIG could handle this easily probably
And there’s anti splatter compounds you can put on the crank hub before you weld in that area. It will keep the splatter from sticking to the machined crank hub surface. One little bb splatter overlooked could cause the flywheel to not be flush on the hub. So prevent the splatter from sticking in the first place with anti splatter spray. Then when you’re done, double and triple check the flange to make sure nothing stuck to it. You can quickly grind any imperfections off if needed.
Could also arc the bolts and weld them into the crank. A good welder with a tig rig can weld the all thread to the race and it will come out.
Dissimilar metals are easily welded together with the proper weld procedure.
Dissimilar metals are easily welded together with the proper weld procedure.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
That is thin stainless steel crammed into a cast iron hole in a crank
The welder will laugh and say to find a mechanic
Sure, he could weld it to anything, but he won't
The welder will laugh and say to find a mechanic
Sure, he could weld it to anything, but he won't
It's out, and I was dumb. Using the puller requires, 1. remove the center & bearing material, and 2. findinging these designed insert slots and ensuring the jaws open firmly into them.
I noticed those slots on the last couple pilot bearing I installed, now I don't have to wonder anymore.
Sleep at last....
Sleep at last....
I always wondered wtf they were for. I tried the jaws and a slide hammer once and have used bread ever since which has been less than a dozen times.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Me personally I like brioche because the left overs make great french toast.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
I used white bread on this one last Friday on a 1996 F350 7.5
It's way easier than using grease which I learned on
I put a bunch of crust, and the inside white, it took 3 pieces to get the thing to start coming out, then popped right the hell out with the next wad
You can see the remnants of some bread in the photo
It's way easier than using grease which I learned on
I put a bunch of crust, and the inside white, it took 3 pieces to get the thing to start coming out, then popped right the hell out with the next wad
You can see the remnants of some bread in the photo
I mean... How else did you all think it got the name, "Wonder Bread"? 
It's been a minute since I have removed a pilot bushing/bearing. I too learned on grease and a socket snapped on backwards to an extension for a pusher. It has to fit real snug and I kind of remember wrapping electrical tape around the socket to make it fit tighter. I can see where the bread will work. Particularly white bread. We used to smush it into a gooey ball and put it on a fishhook to catch fish. One time I didn't have any grease and resorted to packing the hole with leftover RTV. It setup for a few minutes then it popped out just like using grease.
The last bronze bushing that was removed at our shop, brother drilled a pair of 1/4" holes in it to weaken it up a bit and it popped right out with the slide hammer tool. Yes, bronze is way softer to drill into than what the OP was attempting to drill into, the bearing with the steel outer race of the old roller bearing.
The last bronze bushing that was removed at our shop, brother drilled a pair of 1/4" holes in it to weaken it up a bit and it popped right out with the slide hammer tool. Yes, bronze is way softer to drill into than what the OP was attempting to drill into, the bearing with the steel outer race of the old roller bearing.
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