OMFG I can't believe this happened!

9646gt · Apr 24, 2009

Well I couldn't stand the strip of trim/molding down the middle of my bumper anymore. So I decided to take the heat gun and remove it....BOTH F'in sides got the paint peeled off! It was full of tiny little bubbles in wha looks like the factory paint underneath and it just pulled strips of paint off! The car only has 52k on it! Would this be something covered under a corrosion warranty?! It's like the paint was not even adhered to the surface properly! Now what do I do? It looks horrible!

9646gt · Apr 24, 2009

I should note that it wasnt't the adhesive that pulled it off. It was actually the area between the two strips of adhesive!

1992 2.3LX · Apr 25, 2009

you used too much heat

02nightmaregt · Apr 25, 2009

What molding do you speak of?

Gearbanger 101 · Apr 25, 2009

1992 2.3LX said:
you used too much heat

Wart · Apr 25, 2009

1992 2.3LX said:
you used too much heat

Gearbanger 101 said:

Click to expand...

Heat guns are awesome, and destructive.

I have two heat guns, one is a regular heat gun, the other a 1200 watt blow drier.

Many times the blow drier is hot enough.

9646gt · Apr 25, 2009

The paint bubbled in the places I didn't use the heat gun. I only used it at 120 deg at the very corner to get it started. I meant to say the trim piece down the middle of my door.

007 · Apr 25, 2009

You screwed up I'm afraid. You may not have even needed heat. I didnt need any to remove emblems or decals. 3M Woodgrain and Strip Remover works great. I though people just peeled them off and then cleaned up with alcohol? Sucks.

02nightmaregt · Apr 25, 2009

9646gt said:
The paint bubbled in the places I didn't use the heat gun. I only used it at 120 deg at the very corner to get it started. I meant to say the trim piece down the middle of my door.

Ahh ok gotcha

9646gt · Apr 25, 2009

Ok I am in the process of repainting it now. Not sure how it's going to turn out. The paint matches color wise it seems. I am having to repaint the entire patch where the trim was because of the color matching issues. But here are some before pics....

DevilGT · Apr 25, 2009

And what did we learn today? We pay professionals to do body work.

007 · Apr 25, 2009

DevilGT said:
And what did we learn today? We pay professionals to do body work.

A million people have taken those off without issues.

9646gt · Apr 25, 2009

007 said:
A million people have taken those off without issues.

My thoughts exactly. I keep catching hell for it too. Thing is...I get the feeling they put them on before the paint was fully cured wich caused them to bond to the paint. Being that I am in alaska paint takes FOREVER to cure! I may have been 50 below zero when this thing had the moldings added to it wich would explain my problem. The paint was stuck to the metal strip on back of the moldings. I am in the process of trying to fix it now. Got it masked and spraying it now. Looks like it may match pretty well. Biggest issue is keeping the lines where it peeled from showing underneath the new paint but we will see. I had the paint shop mix up some touch up of TK code paint in an aersol can and got a can of clear as well. After some research I found this is a very common and very successful method to fix paint in large areas. I never thought I would have had this issue and I have never seen another stang with this issue or I wouldn't have attempted it

9646gt · Apr 25, 2009

Ok I finished one side and it doesn't look to bad actually. But I do have a fine line where the old paint meets the new. Can someone give me the details on blending it? Should I simply tape a small amount above and below the line leaving some old paint showing and respray the clear to blend it or what? You can for sure tell a tape line was there.

9646gt · Apr 25, 2009

Well....here is the way it looks as of right now. Don't think there is any making it match. Looks like I am stuck like this until I can get it repainted Any tips before I do the other side?

9646gt · Apr 25, 2009

that was three base and three clear btw. Hard to match faded paint and I am a newbie to this so I have no idea if I could have feathered it in to be less noticeable or what

007 · Apr 26, 2009

I would leave the other side, and buy a can of 3M Woodgrain and Stripe Remover. Soak it with that and wait a while. It looks messy, but it'll break down the adhesive and you might only have to pay for one door to be sprayed. It might still go as badly as the other side, but its worth a shot.

9646gt · Apr 26, 2009

Both sides are removed and f'ed up. I thought surely it was going to be a freak thing with the one side but it wasn't

notchnut · Apr 26, 2009

these things happen, no biggie. However you WILL be having it blended and paint matched at a body shop. There is just no way to match that right now. Did you wet sand the whole door with 1500 grit? if not, try that. Wet sand the door so that it is completely dulled, making sure to only sand off clear coat(it should be milky looking as your sanding) also be carefull as Ford did not use alot of clear coat on these cars. Once done with that buff it out with rubbing compound using an orbital buffer. That will get you the best results. Based on your pictures you will still have a visible blemish though. For a shop to blend that correctly they will add color to the door and blend clear into the fender and rear quarter. Because the molding stretched the lenghth of the door it will be tough to color match and blend just on the door without going into the fender and quarter. You can save money by prepping the car yourself before bringing it to the shop, remove door handles, locks, moldings etc and that will save them labor time and you money. You dont need any body work so you should only be looking at 3-400 bucks. Hows Alaska? I lived in Kodiak from 05-08, loved it!

bwahl602 · Apr 26, 2009

get the whole door repainted

OMFG I can't believe this happened!

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