Once and For All.....Door to Body Weather Stripping Shootout

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Mar 2, 2015
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I'm waiting to order my replacements until I see how this plays out.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

5 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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Cuba, AL
The terms anger, frustration, and mad as a hornet (not technically a term) come to mind. I have spent the last few days doingtrying to do something I've done a million times. <Rant> In 2007 I was blessed to do the photography for the Alabama State Park system and created beautiful new postcards that were in all the welcome stations. I also had the honor of working with the Harlem Globetrotters for that same year doing photography for them while they were local to me. Now as a former kid basketball player, being in the back gym spinning basketballs around with the Globetrotters before the show was almost mind-blowing to me. They were the nicest folks. And then that same year was also the 2007 Bass Masters Lay Lake Tournament that I was also lucky enough to shoot. Back then I had a photography business and did tons of sports photography mostly. It has been a long time side hobby of mine that allowed me to do some pretty cool things. What the heck does this have to do with weatherstripping? NOTHING!! But for the life of me, I cannot get pictures of these small hollow black pieces of rubber! I'm so mad right now I can barely type this but I have to get the notes below out. I've made every kind of lightbox, darkbox, etc. My flash on my “big” camera was over $500 just for the flash. It's always served me well. I've tried light backgrounds and dark backgrounds. I even tied one in the air and tried no background. Awful. Just awful. So I'm whooped guys. <Unrant>

Here's the bottom line. Which one(s) work on the door? That was my original plan anyway. Get weatherstripping...Test weatherstripping. So I'm moving from product photography and measuring to door testing. Heck, I'm sure most of you just want to know that anyway. So I'm posting this post with a few things on it and then I will be finishing up the door installs. Those have to be on the car for a few days to give each a fair shake then a different one put on. I'm already finished with one and will have the second on tomorrow.

Thanks for hanging in there.

Here are the notes I made as I was examining each product. WS=weatherstripping

LMR has small holes along the bulb of the WS. The thickness of the rubber on the bulb is the thickest of the group. It is very bouncy feeling. This is the WS on the car presently and I can tell you that bounce is terrible. The bulb is way too thick. More on door results later.

Metro has small holes along the bulb of the WS. The thickness of the rubber on the bulb is not thick and bouncy feeling. It compresses pretty flat between your fingers. This seal feels like a well-made product that mashes flat enough to allow proper door closure.

Fairchild also has the small holes. The thickness of the rubber on the bulb is a little bit more spongy than the Metro. This seal will be going on the car tomorrow as the second one in the test.

Daniel Carpenter also has the small venting holes. The DC holes are big enough to blow thru which will aid in venting the bulb when the door is closed. The other products holes were smaller holes and when they were punched it doesn't appear that the punched out centers were cleared. The thickness of the rubber on the bulb is about the same as the Metro WS. Also noted is that the DC WS is in a spool and has not creased. I didn't observe this earlier as it was in a bag. Once pulled out though it was very pliable and maybe this kept it from getting a crease.

SoffSeal also has the small venting holes. These holes are also big enough to blow thru although I did have to clear some material out before it was possible on some of the holes. The thickness of the rubber on the bulb is comparable to DC and Metro. Of note on this product is the presence of three small raised lines running the full length of the bulb. This leads me to believe that this is a stand-alone product and not just a repackaged one. None of the other products have those lines. As far as the “feel test” goes, this seal has a great feel to it.

For bonus credit here are some pictures of a jig I made a while back for replacing door pins/bushings etc when working alone. I don't ever seem to be able to find anyone to help when I need it. My bushings were fine but I needed to replace the roller and spring that holds the door open. While I was there I went ahead and replaced all the bushings just to be sure they were all perfect for the upcoming test. And now for the jig construction. I took a single 2x6 and laid it flat. Then cut a 2x4 into 4 short pieces and made a V out of them to sit the bottom edge of the door in. After that I stood one 2x4 up vertically and screwed it in. I put a block on this piece once in place and barely rested it on the upper door frame. Once in line, it got screwed in as well. This piece had a soft cord wrapped around it and the upper door frame and that held the door straight up once it was not attached to the car. In the pic, the window is up but it was rolled down when I used it. I also placed shop towels under the door where they touched just to cushion it against the wood. I place all of this on a flat cart and secured it with a bottom "sandwich" block attached with screws. It worked perfectly. Here are a couple pics.
20181128_135450.jpg

20181128_135711.jpg


And now a Globetrotter pic from backstage.

WRW_3199.JPG
 

Wayne Waldrep

5 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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Cuba, AL
I'm cycling thru the door seals. Just a small bit of info, for now, is that there is a massive difference in door closing ease between the first two. As I said in an earlier post, I'm giving each one several days on the car. I like to drive them for a few days and check wind noise, etc. There is also a difference in the ease of installation. Getting close!! Thanks for following.

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year!
 

GT80

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Jun 19, 2014
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Greenville, SC
I found this thread because I was trying to figure out why my new door weatherstripping would not seal. Gaps all around the top, especially in the bend at the top rear corner of the window and the bend at the mirror. I first bought LMR replacements but found that the part that clips over the pinch weld was way too thick for the plastic trim to go over, and there were gaps between the stripping and door. So I went with Daniel Carpenter. Just installed the one on the driver's side and while the platic trim fits over it fine, the gaps are worse than with the LMR stuff. Guess I need a door adjustment or new hinge pins.

Although I've already tried the LMR and DC stuff, I'm still curious to see what you find with your tests.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

5 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
394
216
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Cuba, AL
I found this thread because I was trying to figure out why my new door weatherstripping would not seal. Gaps all around the top, especially in the bend at the top rear corner of the window and the bend at the mirror. I first bought LMR replacements but found that the part that clips over the pinch weld was way too thick for the plastic trim to go over, and there were gaps between the stripping and door. So I went with Daniel Carpenter. Just installed the one on the driver's side and while the platic trim fits over it fine, the gaps are worse than with the LMR stuff. Guess I need a door adjustment or new hinge pins.

Although I've already tried the LMR and DC stuff, I'm still curious to see what you find with your tests.
Thanks for the post. I'm close to being finished with this project. That is IF it will ever stop raining!!
 
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Wayne Waldrep

5 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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Cuba, AL
Yeah, I'm sick of all my trim being off my car...lol. Last weekend the rain washed my driveway away. I actually have a few days lately with no rain but it's just now gotten better. Craziest thing I've ever seen. I mean we even have a whole thread here called "Is it ever going to stop raining?"
I have to put one last piece in and test it then I'll be done. Been very impressed with the better stuff. Not good with the junk stuff. I'll get in gear and get this done.
Thanks for checking and sorry for taking so long.
 
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JKWilson61

Active Member
Jul 27, 2018
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Summerville, SC
No apologies necessary (at least as far as I'm concerned). Thanks for all of the work you've put into this!

I truly understand about the rain. What y'all get first we get next! It's wreaked total havoc on me getting the convertible ready for paint. The car should have been painted long ago!
 

Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
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california
Glad we across this thread, but troubled to know you may be getting even more rain. We're getting rain out in the west coast now and probably over the next few days. We were planning on driving on out to Chicago at the end May/beginning of June for a religious pilgrimage with the teenage sons (16 and 18) to visit the St Jude National Shrine. But, gotta tell you, the news keeps scaring us a bit with the crazy weather events. (Apologies for going off topic).

In the middle of a 91 Mustang GT project with my oldest (his first car). With the rain we've had, we definitely understand why the floor pan has been getting wet and shows signs of rust. We were talking about the need for WS, but weren't quite sure which we be good for us on the west coast. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Jhp & son
 
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Ford82MustangGT

New Member
Jun 9, 2019
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Washington
I'm following your thread waiting on results. My Mustang is sitting in the shop with trim and door seals removed. The seals I just purchased from 1A Auto aren't good. Door won't close properly. Compressed thickness is too great for the available door gaps. Mostly due to a rib connecting the bulb to the base.
 

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Wayne Waldrep

5 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
394
216
63
52
Cuba, AL
I'm following your thread waiting on results. My Mustang is sitting in the shop with trim and door seals removed. The seals I just purchased from 1A Auto aren't good. Door won't close properly. Compressed thickness is too great for the available door gaps. Mostly due to a rib connecting the bulb to the base.
That rib really shouldn't be there. The bulb should be fused directly to the flange channel. I'm on my last product test.
 

Ford82MustangGT

New Member
Jun 9, 2019
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Washington
Do you have pictures of the seal end view or profile showing bulb thickness and height and if there is a rib between the bulb and clamp. I'm about to the point of ordering the expensive Ford seals but wanted to look at the shape of the lower cost seals first.