Fuel Opinion on Fuel lines

Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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In my attempt to save me some money, I started working on the rusted part of these fuel lines. Here is a pic of the before, and where I’ve gotten it so far. I guess my question is whether they’re still safe to run? They still feel real strong where the rust was, with no signs of weakness anywhere.
If they’re good, I’d rather spend the few hours cleaning them up, than the $400 plus for a new set.
2D6EBE73-1796-4395-9265-5E6C44B4ED09.jpeg
31A5C1B4-79DC-4794-B341-9C2D1177C61E.jpeg
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Try cleaning up a small section (one of the worst areas) and see what you are left with. If it's smooth and defect free, send it. If you see pits, I would get new ones. Hard to say how thin the metal is in the area of the pit and if that leads to a failure later on in that spot.
 
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Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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Try cleaning up a small section (one of the worst areas) and see what you are left with. If it's smooth and defect free, send it. If you see pits, I would get new ones. Hard to say how thin the metal is in the area of the pit and if that leads to a failure later on in that spot.
Here is where the worst of it was. Very smooth, maybe a few little “indents”
099A2E0D-489E-41B7-8EE2-7A5371247EEB.jpeg

The rest cleaned up very easy, and shining like new.
1AEC3C52-6B1B-4D11-8A82-FCA581ABDAFB.jpeg


I think I’ll do the supply line next and then make my decision.
 

Rdub6

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And next question is.... are just these plastic/ rubber ends of the hard lines available? All I see the ones for the other end that connect to fuel tank.
2F5B1652-FD11-41E4-B2CE-9E69E88AE90C.jpeg
 

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny
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Since those are not the ones that connect to the fuel tank. I am assuming that they are the ones that will go to the fuel rail. I just swapped engines and had to make my own and was going to use the doorman connectors that would allow me to use the Nylon and slide a rubber hose over them, but in the end I used standard rubber fuel line and the quick connectors.

Dorman / Fuel Line Connector
Part #:800-054Notes:Inlet and Outlet. Nylon Straight. 3/8" x 5/16"

Is this what you are looking for
 

Rdub6

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Dec 29, 2017
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I need the hose, which I have found is not an issue. My issue will be getting the hose back onto the barbs of the line and the fitting. As you can see in the pic, it was kinked pretty good. I had no intention of reusing, so I wasn’t exactly careful getting them out.
I’m open to suggestions on other solutions.
Cut the steel, compression to braid up to the rail?
image.jpg
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Can you have some AN fittings welded onto the ends of the lines?

You’ll need to purge nitrogen through those lines before and during welding if you attempt it.
 

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny
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I would agree with the AN fittings if possible over my next suggestion.

  1. Cut the end where it is crimped and make sure that the opening is flared out to at least the original diameter.
  2. Get some PB blaster for lube and shove the rubber hose back and over the barb then clamp with a hose clamp
    1. or you can heat the hose so it is more pliable and push it over if you don't like to use lubricants with fuel lines.
I even have a friend who went as far to put heat shrink around his connections to ensure they were not going to leak, obviously he did this before he put them back on the car though.
 

Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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I’ve seen some people put new nylon line on by placing it in boiling water, then over the barb. I may try that. If it doesn’t work, I’ll be back where I started, bite the bullet, and buy new lines.
 

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny
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I have all the parts to make the nylon lines, What I used was the part that I listed above and some straight barbs plus bulk nylon line. I tried to make the line 3 times before giving up. I will try again once I get around to it. They are not friendly to work with, you are right that you have to get them heated up and pliable to work with.

DO NOT use the Doorman push in quick connect, it is black and has blue ends, they will leak on you every time.
This was my first attempt to make the lines, here I was using the 90 degree and every time I turned the key the pressure line spewed. I took this all apart and then tried to make it with the barbs instead of the doorman quick connect. The damn nylon is difficult to work with and it will hurt you hands. For now I am using regular rubber fuel line but will make the lines with nylon when I can get the chance. I needed to car to run now over sitting so the rubber was a quick fix
 

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kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny
15 Year Member
Dec 24, 2003
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I do believe that will be a better connection.

I am trying to make sure that the nylon is protected under the hood from heat and general dings and debris. That is why I was trying to make sure I can get a rubber hose over the top of the nylon line. To me just having the bare nylon is not enough for a safety or longevity reason. I also know that just running the rubber line like I have now is also not the long term solution. Luckily, you are just going back to the factory location on yours. I am running my across the rear of the firewall because the fuel rail that I am now using is on the opposite side of the engine bay. So, I need to not only add distance but need to safely make a U bend in the line so that it wont crimp and cause me delivery issues.

If these connections work, post the pictures and let us all know. We all look for solutions that are successful.
 
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Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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Ordered my nylon lines. There is plenty of extra, so I have some trial and error pieces. I’ve seen a few guys use a flare tool to hold the line, some heat, and a c-clamp to turn in the fitting. Hopefully it’ll be here Tuesday if Covid-19 doesn’t shut down Amazon delivery.
Stay tuned!
 
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