PLEASE PLEASE HELP!

2000GTHRSE

New Member
Jun 16, 2009
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Colorado
Hello my name is Ryan and im in a big panic right now. I just got done doing a trany in my 2000 mustang GT. I did the whole 9 yards, including, new refurbished T-45 transmission, Spec stage 3 clutch, spec aluminum flywheel, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, energy suspension trany mount and motor mounts, And a Steeda adjustable clutch cable,double hook quadrant, and firewall adjuster. The trany fluid i use was BG Syncroshift2...very exspensive i might add. My problem i am having is when the car is in neutral and the clutch is enguaged there is a ticking coming from the clutch/bellhousing area and as soon as i push the pedal in just a 1/2 inch in the noise goes away. And it sometimes does it when the car is driving but not all the time, or if iv been driving a while... I have the cable on the hook the closest to the firewall cause im using the adjustable cable with the double hook quadrant. The thing i think i have messed up is the firewall adjuster is all the way tightened down as close as it will go to the firewall, and the the cable is adjusted pretty far on the adjutable rod...a little more than half way on the rod. Am i supposed to have the adjuster halfway out and the nuts on the cable not tightened so far? I got confused as to what a "light" tension on the cable might be. Its adjusted to where the cable is "light" on the clutch fork but when you barely press the clutch fork with your hand it jiggles around freely. Is this to loose? Also the clutch enguages really high on the pedal. Iv only drivin the car 68 miles since the install so it should be correctable and be fine to adjust to the right setting. Any help you guys/gals can give me would be GREATLY appreciated! I spent about 2700$ fixing my car and cant afford to fix it again if something goes wrong...on a tight budget...And thanks again
 
Im hopping thats not the issue. The throw out bearing is a brand new sealed bearing. That doesnt rule out it might be defective though. I replaced both that bearing and the pilot bearing with the install. Im going to try and readjust the clutch tomorrow. Any pointers on how i should have the cable and the FWA set?
 
Throw the firewall adjuster out if you have an adj cable. No need for both imho. ESP with a double hook quad. You can keep the fwa and put a stock cable back in if you like but I personall don't see a need to adj the cable that much. With that said you want the cable to have little to no slack in it so when you push the pedal it starts to dis-engage real quick. You should be at the upper end of you pedal play for the clutch to work. How much depends on personal preference. As long as the trans shifts good (clutch is dis engaged all the way) and its not slipping (put it in 4th at like 25 and push the gas to the floor, it will slip if your cable is TOO tight).

There is not perfect answer here, its all about what you like and how it feels to you.

The ticking is likely a tob. They are notorious for sucking at life. The only ones the usually don't are factory ford bearings. Ones from part stores are hit and miss.

Per tremec's web site, they do not suggest running synthetic fluid in t-45's. I think, key word think, that is has to do with the paper lined syncro's. I had synthetic in mine and took it out for regular dex III. Seems to shift a bit better for me.
 
So i emailed Gus at steeda and he set me on the right path. Turns out my cable was just way to loose...I was getting the chattery pedal. So i readjusted everything and it works great! The clicking is gone and the pedal feels much much better. The only concern im having now is that my clutch inguages really high on the pedal. Like almost all the way up. I have about two inches at the top of the pedal where the clutch actually starts grabbing. But it does pass the test of where you just start to push the pedal about a 1/2 inch in and the clutch starts to disinguage. Any way i can bring the inguagment point lower on the pedal? And is this adjusted correctly. Thanks again guys/gals!!!
 
Mine engages high (helps with speed shifting when racing imho). If it works and you think you have enough room, then just tighten the cable till it engages (correctly) at a level you like. That is the perk of an adj set up.