Pokageek's Pain thread. 351 stroker (414c.i.) swap PROBLEMS.
- Thread starter Pokageek
- Start date
I just fixed my tensioner problem. Buy an idler pulley and put in place of the tensioner pulley. It holds the belt tighter and the tensioner doesn't knock anymore.
Cool. Thanks man. Can you get those anywhere? I will look for one. In the meantime, I can get the belt to stay on but it moves left and right on the darn tensioner pulley..Maybe it is b/c the crank pulley is a little out..
it's all tght but the pulley is a little off....ok, I rechecked and tested everything. Looks like the car is running tip top other than needing a tune except for the 2 remaining issues:
#1 I can't drive the car more than 1 mile without my belt coming off!!!
amnit: 
#2 Sueak in the intake tract. I pullled the air filter and the car wont run at all, so I can't really test where it is coming from. I am out of ideas here but it will not stop me from driving.
BTW,the car is not as loud as the 5.0, no boom drone at ALL either! It does have a interesting "rumble" that the stang didn't have.
Latest:
UnderDrive Pulley Problem:
As u know, the FRPP underdrive pulley is NOT compatible with the Pioneer Balancer for the 414 stroker engine. As u know, I tried o reverse the FRPP under drive pulley to make it work but the reverse side edge of the under drive CRANK pulley is too wide.. so...
I had to machine it to clear the 4 corners on the edge of the balancer where the bolts connect the pulley to the balancer- if y'all know what I mean ( if u ever get to this point - u will know what I mean).
..It worked... about half way... I had to dremel out MORE aluminum than the machine shop friend of mine did... and then some more..and then some more...and...
..you get the idea... and then it finaly went on.. flush...
BUT then I started it up and the belt stayed on but not perfect....
Instead of the belt completely coming off right away, it stayed on but the outer "rib" of the belt hangs of the crank pulley ....which brings to mind what the ASP guy (I called them and had a convwersation with a tech guy there) said ...
He said it wouldn't work anyway if I reversed it (like I listen to help desk tech folks, u know - half the time they are idiots) and he happened to be correct... :damnit:
..So I will await the deliver of my OEM crank pulley for a stock 94/95 5.0 to get here via ups ground from that junkyard company that sometimes delivers on time if y'all know who I am speaking of..and report back.
..If that doesn't work, I will just drive it without any belts at all.
UnderDrive Pulley Problem:
As u know, the FRPP underdrive pulley is NOT compatible with the Pioneer Balancer for the 414 stroker engine. As u know, I tried o reverse the FRPP under drive pulley to make it work but the reverse side edge of the under drive CRANK pulley is too wide.. so...
I had to machine it to clear the 4 corners on the edge of the balancer where the bolts connect the pulley to the balancer- if y'all know what I mean ( if u ever get to this point - u will know what I mean).
..It worked... about half way... I had to dremel out MORE aluminum than the machine shop friend of mine did... and then some more..and then some more...and...
BUT then I started it up and the belt stayed on but not perfect....
Instead of the belt completely coming off right away, it stayed on but
the outer "rib" of the belt hangs of the crank pulley ....which brings to mind what the ASP guy (I called them and had a convwersation with a tech guy there) said ...He said it wouldn't work anyway if I reversed it (like I listen to help desk tech folks, u know - half the time they are idiots) and he happened to be correct... :damnit:
..So I will await the deliver of my OEM crank pulley for a stock 94/95 5.0 to get here via ups ground from that junkyard company that sometimes delivers on time if y'all know who I am speaking of..and report back.
..If that doesn't work, I will just drive it without any belts at all.
Finally got the oem crank pulley...it hits the underdrive waterump pulley and won't go on. Now I am waiting on a friend to hopefully come thru on a oem waterpump pulley...if I get that tomorrow otherwise another weekend - no drive car...
After this I have to HOPE the belt does not come off for some reason... At this point I am not taking anything for granted.:damnit: I just want to be able todrive more than 1 mile!
After this I have to HOPE the belt does not come off for some reason... At this point I am not taking anything for granted.:damnit: I just want to be able todrive more than 1 mile!
Zero_chance
Founding Member
My original plans were to go with a 427 but after reading about all this, and knowing my patience level, Im going to stick with plan B. Coast High 347 street fighter, Trickflow top end kit and Vortech S-trim.
Just so y'all know, I did not create this thread to complain...well maybe 25% complain and vent..lol.
I created this thread mainly so anyone else building their car could find help with potential problems.
Yes, I know its cool and all to have a big C.I. motor and I should be excited but damn after spending 8-10k, I want to be able DRIVE car!
I created this thread mainly so anyone else building their car could find help with potential problems.
Yes, I know its cool and all to have a big C.I. motor and I should be excited but damn after spending 8-10k, I want to be able DRIVE car!
BlackVert
15 Year Member
you and me both man. hang in there bro, it'll be worth it after it all gets sorted out.
i'm very surprised your builder didn't put the accessories and belt on and make sure everything was lined up correctly. i fault him for this.
when i picked up my engine, all the accessories were on it and the belt was already there and tensioned correctly. not even one problem there.
Zero_chance
Founding Member
I think your thread is very informative because itll show people that theres a lot of small things involved and it might help them avoid those particular setbacks in the first place or maybe go a different route. I just know with my patience level that if I spent all that money an wasnt able to drive the car Id probaby end up selling it and starting over. Hope things work out for you. Just imagine how good its going to feel when you can actually get out on the road and open her up.
I hear ya zero and my patients are past up already with this $ ht.
NEXT ITEM:
The 351 block sits higher so my plan to put all the original pulleys back on WONT WORK! The battery pan gets in the way of the a/c delete pulley... I can't drive it to my mechanic's place to get the battery moved to the back and GOD KNOWS what other problems I may face if I do that - > so I am going to have to find the odd size -> somewhere arounf 98.5-99.5 belt to fit the car with just the SMOG delete pulley on and no a/c pulley.
Andnow the smog pulley looks like it is out further than the crank pulley. I'll find out when I get that $ht and run it.
NEXT ITEM:
The 351 block sits higher so my plan to put all the original pulleys back on WONT WORK! The battery pan gets in the way of the a/c delete pulley... I can't drive it to my mechanic's place to get the battery moved to the back and GOD KNOWS what other problems I may face if I do that - > so I am going to have to find the odd size -> somewhere arounf 98.5-99.5 belt to fit the car with just the SMOG delete pulley on and no a/c pulley.
Andnow the smog pulley looks like it is out further than the crank pulley.
I'll find out when I get that $ht and run it.
i wish i had seen this thread last month,i went through the same oil pan hitting the sway bar/header hitting the steering knuckle problems.lol all set now just finishing it up.
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Ok, I crossed the finish line. Now for the teaking!Also, belt stays on now with tension created by putting back on the smog pulley.
Loudness resonates from the mufflers without cats. That can be solved.
Car just needs a good tune after 500 miles. This thing has a boat load of TQ and HP. Can't wait too open it up! Thanks for all your help and suggestions!!!You guys are S U P E R! :SNSign:
Loudness resonates from the mufflers without cats. That can be solved.
Car just needs a good tune after 500 miles. This thing has a boat load of TQ and HP. Can't wait too open it up! Thanks for all your help and suggestions!!!You guys are S U P E R! :SNSign:
BlackVert
15 Year Member
Latest issue:
BRAND new water pump... I think on the "blink."
I got tired of fooling with the car so having my only other trusted mechanic other than my engine builder--->
1. Find the noise and correct.
2. Check over the installation and make sure it looks ok. Including cutting the dipstick to fit so I can read it properly. Make sure the alternator is working properly, check my belt implementation, all around check the car out.
3. Put on my cobra brakes.
4. Put on my tokico shock/struts.
5. Put on my lca's and weld the (tq box reinforcements. not sure if I even need them as I will not do any track time).
BTW the car is running rich enough to burn me eyes so I cant wait til I get a dam tune...but gotta wait til I reach 600 miles....but hope I dont destry another set of 02 sensors...and plugs.... chicken or egg thing I know.
BRAND new water pump... I think on the "blink."
I got tired of fooling with the car so having my only other trusted mechanic other than my engine builder--->1. Find the noise and correct.
2. Check over the installation and make sure it looks ok. Including cutting the dipstick to fit so I can read it properly. Make sure the alternator is working properly, check my belt implementation, all around check the car out.
3. Put on my cobra brakes.
4. Put on my tokico shock/struts.
5. Put on my lca's and weld the (tq box reinforcements.
not sure if I even need them as I will not do any track time). BTW the car is running rich enough to burn me eyes so I cant wait til I get a dam tune...but gotta wait til I reach 600 miles....but hope I dont destry another set of 02 sensors...and plugs.... chicken or egg thing I know.
Latest:
I have driven the car over 500 miles safely and did the first oil change. SO I am taking it to the dyno on Wed now that the belt is staying on.
Key to belts staying on:
1. You MUST have tension on the tensioner and the best way for that it to either keep your smog pump or use the delete pulley (EXPENSIVE for a small dummy pulley).
2. Make sure the pointer on your tensioner is in the "safety zone" which means the belt is tighten.
3. Pulleys must be in near PEFECT alignment! (I had t put washers behind my crank pulley to get it to line up.)
It works.
Black95GTS had it right and a couple of others of you on the tune thing and the car running like it was on 7 cylinders. Apparently a friends programming of the chip did not take and it thought it was running on 24#'s. That cost me 2 sets of spark plugs and a set of new 02's that got corroded but that's life in the big city. That's why you always have to plan to spend more than the minumums.
Belt Squeak:
Would you believe my BRAND NEW FRPP water pump was TOAST!! My mechanic replaced it with a napa one and runs fine now.
Power:
Right now I can feel it is down on power. No I am not trying to melt the tires or anything but I can tell it needs a tune BAD. I will report back on this.
SCREEECH coming out of the damn intake air filter:
Damnit I can't figure this one out! I even put in a new bigger air filter...same result!!!
When I take the car up for the dyno tune, I will ask SGS (formerly kauffmans motorsports) to find it and fix it. I drives me UP A WALL. I also fell a hesitation in acceleration when it sqeals.
Once again thanks to everyone here AND Rick91GT for all his help AND post sale interest in my results! You know you are dealing with good people when they show honest interest like that.
Oh and EVERYWHERE I go I am getting stares and mouth drops at how AWESOME this car sounds. It is incredible!!
I have driven the car over 500 miles safely and did the first oil change. SO I am taking it to the dyno on Wed now that the belt is staying on.
Key to belts staying on:
1. You MUST have tension on the tensioner and the best way for that it to either keep your smog pump or use the delete pulley (EXPENSIVE for a small dummy pulley).
2. Make sure the pointer on your tensioner is in the "safety zone" which means the belt is tighten.
3. Pulleys must be in near PEFECT alignment! (I had t put washers behind my crank pulley to get it to line up.)
It works.Black95GTS had it right and a couple of others of you on the tune thing and the car running like it was on 7 cylinders. Apparently a friends programming of the chip did not take and it thought it was running on 24#'s. That cost me 2 sets of spark plugs and a set of new 02's that got corroded but that's life in the big city. That's why you always have to plan to spend more than the minumums.
Belt Squeak:
Would you believe my BRAND NEW FRPP water pump was TOAST!! My mechanic replaced it with a napa one and runs fine now.
Power:
Right now I can feel it is down on power. No I am not trying to melt the tires or anything but I can tell it needs a tune BAD. I will report back on this.
SCREEECH coming out of the damn intake air filter:
Damnit I can't figure this one out!
When I take the car up for the dyno tune, I will ask SGS (formerly kauffmans motorsports) to find it and fix it. I drives me UP A WALL. Once again thanks to everyone here AND Rick91GT for all his help AND post sale interest in my results! You know you are dealing with good people when they show honest interest like that.
Oh and EVERYWHERE I go I am getting stares and mouth drops
at how AWESOME this car sounds. It is incredible!!
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