Progress Thread Prime's 87 T-top Gt
- Thread starter Prime Lord
- Start date
You can have your flywheel turned at a clutch shop or Machine shop.....
Maybe. Nothing has been taken apart since before the salt water flood in 2009. That said, the flywheel only has about 5k miles on it. If that. Im just worried about corrosion since the disc feels like it's worn a lot with very little driving.
But I'll know for sure I'm a few weeks. I was going to tear into it this weekend, but work has me unexpectedly out of town.
Just make sure the shop has a flywheel grinder. Turning them on a lathe is not the way to do it.
I didn't know these things could fly?!
So much room for activities. Time to pull the transmission.
The IRS subframe makes an amazing lift point. All the room to do all the things.
24" clear to the bottom of the floor pan. Seen more rust than I'd like this evening. Might POR a few spots.
So much room for activities. Time to pull the transmission.
The IRS subframe makes an amazing lift point. All the room to do all the things.
24" clear to the bottom of the floor pan. Seen more rust than I'd like this evening. Might POR a few spots.
You made it to 70 because you were LUCKY not because of any pins you stuck in a jack stand.
You made it to 70 because no woman can tolerate you long enough to smack you in the back of the head with a shovel and bury you under the rose bushes. 
Elder abuse here.....You made it to 70 because no woman can tolerate you long enough to smack you in the back of the head with a shovel and bury you under the rose bushes.
Got the off road H removed.
I feel like this crossmember should have the bushings for the hooks in the pipe. But it doesn't. Now I'm trying to remember if that was the original crossmember or not.
Also found a hole in the passenger floorboard. It's totalled. Time to throw it away.
Or just get some sheet metal and weld a new piece in and POR the edges.
Rest of the tub looks good. Just some residual surface rust I need to kill.
I feel like this crossmember should have the bushings for the hooks in the pipe. But it doesn't. Now I'm trying to remember if that was the original crossmember or not.
Also found a hole in the passenger floorboard. It's totalled. Time to throw it away.
Or just get some sheet metal and weld a new piece in and POR the edges.
Rest of the tub looks good. Just some residual surface rust I need to kill.
Also got a glimpse of the pressure plate from the throwout fork window. Holy 
. Rust. It's bad.
Don't they make a boot for the fork?
Also, I'm missing the lower blocking plate from the front of the bell housing that covers the engine side of the flywheel. Need to source that too.
. Rust. It's bad. Don't they make a boot for the fork?
Also, I'm missing the lower blocking plate from the front of the bell housing that covers the engine side of the flywheel. Need to source that too.
Got the driveshaft out. Found two things.
I think the Ford Racing aluminum shaft is like an inch too long. It took a shoehorn to get it out and the trailing boot on the transmission output seal was destroyed. That said, it wasn't leaking. So either a different output seal or have a shop take an inch off the driveshaft?
Also, the pinion seal is leaking. Fun. I really don't want to drop the subframe and take the diff apart. So I might try and replace it in place. Which I know can be dicey, but it's a lot to drop the entire IRS out and take the diff apart to do the seal.
I think the Ford Racing aluminum shaft is like an inch too long. It took a shoehorn to get it out and the trailing boot on the transmission output seal was destroyed. That said, it wasn't leaking. So either a different output seal or have a shop take an inch off the driveshaft?
Also, the pinion seal is leaking. Fun. I really don't want to drop the subframe and take the diff apart. So I might try and replace it in place. Which I know can be dicey, but it's a lot to drop the entire IRS out and take the diff apart to do the seal.
The goal is to do one thing every night. Tomorrow I'm going to disconnect the clutch cable pull all the connectors and speedo cable from the trans and support the tailshaft so I can remove the crossmember.
I dont know anything specific about your IRS rear, but if it uses spacers ( not a crush seal) to set up your pinion gear, you " should " be able to take out the yoke, install a new seal, and reassemble it..... I have done this before on some Mopars...
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