what is closed up?I don't recall what mine is but it is closed up. I also run a Boost-A-Spark to keep the coil saturated. Essentially the same function as the Boost-A-Pump for the fuel pump.
Checking/cleaning all of your wire connections and grounds can help with this too.
Do you run an OEM alternator or a 3G? It doesn't matter a [ton] unless you got e-fans or a huge stereo etc...
Yes and I mean the wires that I have on the car now are not super old with the NA set up. I'm going to go ahead and get some new ones anyway but the car under non-boosted situations should drive at least the way it did when it was strictly NA. There were a few wires that had a few questionable things about them that's why I put on two of my old Ford racing wires and the distributor cap off the other car just for diagnosing so all in all just strictly driving the car normal it should be driving decent consistently..And I'll just throw this out there:
Your plug wires need to be in tip-top shape. Zero leaks with zero suspicions.
oh yeah no doubt I know whatcha mean lol. I have the Taylors red 45 degree angles. I was always skeptical about having to crimp spark plug wires though I don't mine crimping other things but I understand you gotta do whatcha gotta do sometimes...Yeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...I think I went to a set of cut-to-fit Taylor wires (because of the KB).
Can a positive wire straight from the battery be ran to the fuel pump and then ground the fuel pump straight to the body of the car, is that's sufficient to fire the car up just for testing purposes?Yeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...I think I went to a set of cut-to-fit Taylor wires (because of the KB).
And I found this while googling some stuff earlier. This guy said this is how he tested his inertia switch or rather when his was bad. By your reaction it doesn't seem like you think this should work. I'm not having this issue because my inertia switch is supplying power but I'm just curious as to the paper clip thing that he did LOLYeah.... Things happen during install. Wires get disturbed... Maybe they're not as 'not old' as we thought they were...
You know the drill.
My 'not so old' FMS wires ended up being not so good. What did I go to...I think I went to a set of cut-to-fit Taylor wires (because of the KB).
This guy said this is how he tested his inertia switch or rather when his was bad. By your reaction it doesn't seem like you think this should work.
So I'm assuming running a wire straight from the battery to the pump and then grounding the pump to the chassis it's fine to get the pump to turn on. I know you would have to actually unplug the fuel pump wire to get the pump to cut off though. I could actually maybe do that and see if there is any difference in how the car runs and performs as there should be nothing interfering with it and causing a voltage drop am I correct?I think what you're getting at is the "how". It looks like the way he tested it does not account for current draw.
If you test with the pump [running] you get to see if there is a problem with voltage drop when the pump turns on. If it drops for a second and recovers, that's usually fine. If it drops and doesn't or it fluctuates a lot... that's not so good.
So I'm assuming running a wire straight from the battery to the pump and then grounding the pump to the chassis it's fine to get the pump to turn on.
Yes definitely that's what I was going to do next after I try that when I get to that point if I get to that point as in verifying if it's at the pump or the inertia or somewhere along the lines.Yeah you can hot wire it to see if the drop is a the pump. That's good info to have.
I would [still] to the paper-clip method if the pump checks out. This will tell you if you have a wiring issue.
The video is too large
No I am just swapping one that I had laying around it's an extra one that I had so actually it's off of another car and it's already attached to the metal housing that gets bolted down. But I know what you are talking about in reference to taking the module itself off of the metal housing.If you mess with the TFI module, don't forget that the surfaces need to be cleaned and new thermal paste applied.
Host it on Youtube then post the link to your threads.
Found this issue this morning so diagnosing what all I have to do to replace at least this line. Looks like it connects to the fuel pump so I'll probably have to drop the tank and replace just that line. The two lines is riveted at a point to the underbody so I'll have to drill it to remove and see if I need to put a self-tapping thread back in that spot or next to it.If you mess with the TFI module, don't forget that the surfaces need to be cleaned and new thermal paste applied.
Host it on Youtube then post the link to your threads.
Actually I should have paid attention to the signs of the exhaust rattle and had I got up under there and checked I would have saw the exhaust was a little too close and eventually started touching that fuel line. Anyway going to drop the tank now and I just took the other fuel line off the my other old car that's taken apart and I'm going to swap itYeah, that bracket looks like it needs to be relocated.
I'm pretty sure the best way to refasten the fuel tank bolts is to pretty much use a ratchet because an impact could strip the that piece on the underside of the underbody that the boat fastens to inside the hole. I usually remove kind of slowly with an impact but then when I go to fasten I kind of still go a little slowly to get it started and then finish with an impact....Yeah, that bracket looks like it needs to be relocated.
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