Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install

Noobz347 said:

Yeah, that bracket looks like it needs to be relocated.

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I almost commented in the wrong thread now that I just created the other one today for the 95 lol.

So got all of those few little small things situated got the fuel line swapped n the tank refastened got everything back together and cleaned the car up took her on a nice Cruise.

The only thing I noticed was I believe the temperature was about 150 to 180 and when I left home and of course sitting there idling at that temperature the air fuel is between 19 something and 20. So upon taking off the car still did that little bog and then it let loose and it was fine. So I'm going to keep an eye on that. The next time I drive I usually let it warm up about 5 minutes ish so it'll likely to be around 180 when I go to take off and I will see what the air fuel is if it's still around 20 and it does the same ball game thing initially and then it might be something related to the car having sat for a period of time and being at 180° and even though that's not all the way at full operating temperature at about 2:10 it should still should be warm enough. On the trip about 20 minutes stopped and got some gas and then left there and went to AutoZone to get my charging system checked and then left there and stopped at another gas station I just wanted to compare the premium price, and through all of that it did not do what it did upon leaving the house today. So it could be something with the car being fully warmed up and what the air fuel is

So I will see if it still does the same thing it did today because actually once I got down the road actually probably about 3 minutes to the stop sign, the AF was reading fine at about 14 something and when I left the stop sign it took off fine. So maybe there's something in the at a certain temperature the startup air fuel so I will see what it does the next time and get with him accordingly

Noobz347 said:

Fresh gas means a lot to a blown setup.

A 20 on the AFR when it's cold could mean a couple of things:

The sensor is not fully warmed.
The sensor is due for a free-air calibration.
Your cold/start fuel table is way too lean.

Either way, I would not try an push the car into boost when it looks like it's running that lean.

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Fresh gas, not sure I follow the statement reference lol?

I just calibrated it to free air the other day as a matter of fact. The only reason I did it just for a peace of mine was because I didn't recalibrate it after I put the chip back in after the tuner changes. That's the only thing I don't like about the glow shift wideband is that they say it's best to recalibrate any time the battery is disconnected. I didn't calibrate it after plugging in the chip because I was anxious to get back to diagnosing. I don't think it was actually out of whack or off as a result of not recalibrating by the way from how the numbers read to how it read after i actually recalibrated.

I will see how it does when i drive it the weekend coming and if it still does it the same way it did today then is fine from there out after the car is good and warm I'll give Chris a call. If he says he can make more tweaks I might actually just go back sometime soon and drive it up there and actually let him make a pull after too. It might make more than the 403 now that maybe that fuel line was questionable and the 2 wires I ended up changing ( I'm going to put a fresh set on too by the way) and also tried a dizzy cap from my other car. Before I go I will already have put on the new wires and dizzy cap, rotor button.

By the way I took the car to advance just to get the charging system checked just for s and giggles. When I start the car the volts read 14 and 13 plus when I'm driving. The system looks fine but she did say as per the printout that the startup system failed which she said means the starter. I will research that and verify because the car does startup fine; unless it's on the way out. I do have LT's and actually the starter was put on new when I put the engine in back in around 2002. Since then 10 k put on it.

So I'm still having the hesitation and bucking Miss that was only initially upon taking off after the car has warmed up for the first time of driving it for the day. It will be fine after that but as of late it is doing it even if I take off from a stoplight. I've tried another coil another TFI module and actually after I swapped the coil back to one of my other used ones, the car drove fine drove like it's supposed to. Took it home and I know I was going to go on another 35 minute round trip drive so I wanted to see how it would do and it did better that whole trip but it still has some bucking and missing along the way.

More so on the way back it did it more. I decided to go by AutoZone and buy a duralast and as well order a motorcraft coil just to try out and see what happens. Well got home today put on the new coil and the car did not even start, it cranked over fine but did not start. Primed it four five times still did not start, primed it for five more times still did not start. Primed it four or five more times held the gas pedal to the floor and it fired up. I didn't let it run long I just shut it off.

The fuel pressure appeared to normal on the gauge and when I just had it switched on for about 60 seconds just diagnosing, it bled down at a normal interval so it's not like it went straight to zero or anything. After that 60 seconds it still have pressure. Reading up on some things it seems like the PIP in the distributor could be an issue even though in the past the only issue I've had over the years with changing two of them over the years a long time ago since the last one, it was a situation where I could fire the car start driving and after a 5-minute drive the car was shut off and would not start until it's cooled off some. Then I will start it and drive all the way home about an hour drive.

The distributor is still the original distributor even though I've changed the PIP a few times since 2002. I have a spare engine in my garage and was thinking about just trying the other dizzy just to see, trying another ccrm just to see, and also trying another PCM just to see if any of those three things solve the issue. The main thing is it is getting it to fire up like it was firing up and so maybe one of those three things might be the culprit and I guess I will see. I have all of those parts as spares by the way so there's nothing to try one at a time and see what happens.

Noobz suggested to also diagnose for a possible leaky injector. They are a new deatchsworks 60s they came with a flow sheet. I did have the issue where the number five injector was leaking at the intake but what was happening was the fuel rail bolt needed to be fastened down all the way so I got that straightened no more leaks and that was very early in the supercharger install, or it was before the supercharger install and that might be in this thread where I was getting advice on what was going on with that leak.

I'm hoping one of those things fix my issue. The dizzy will be last since I have to pull the number one plug and get TDC.

did a koeo test and got codes-

511- EEC processor rom test failed ( it appears that's normal with a chip)

564- not in the chilton's manual but seems to be elec drive fan circuit fault. Last I drove the fan was coming on and on a around 70 degree day car was about 180 degrees. ( not sure I heard the fans come on last night and they should with the test IIRC. I will tighten the ccrm bolt some more)

565- Canister purge circuit failure ( I have the canister unplugged, can't remember if I had it plugged in when the engine was in the other car)

542- fuel pump secondary circuit failure, pcm to ground

Last night I was going to try another ccrm that I have laying around, actually have 2. I unplugged the old one and went in and ate. I came back out later to do the koeo test and just plugged the ccrm I took off back in and put a few turns on the bolt to secure the box to connector to the box. Maybe it could be a little tighter but didn't have a gap as I could see but I'll go a little tighter on it this eve and re do the test.

Noobz347 said:

This suggests that you still have a wiring issue to/from the pump.

The EEC is not seeing the static voltage that it wants to see when the pump is activated.

Based on this code alone:

Fuel Pump Relay (Top suspect)​

Works fine at idle / cruise
Fails intermittently under load (boost = higher current draw)
PCM sees voltage drop → throws 542
Causes a stumble similar to what you're describing
Inertia Switch / Connection Resistance
Ground at Tank

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I don't think the 94 95's have a ground strap or it definitely isn't like that or in that area. I will research to see if there's one that's tucked up inside as the fuel pump harness connnector is which is above the tank in that area.

Will change that ccrm box and fasten it all the way and re check codes first when I get home. Maybe it wasn't making a good connection during the koeo test and want to verify that wasn't an issue.

Here's a 94 95 I circled where the strap hangs that attaches the fuel pump harness and that wire that hangs I guess is grounded somewhere. I'll take a look at my other car but I broke down and see if I see anything of where that wire if it's specifically grounded right near that location if that harness that singing down is specifically grounded right there somewhere

So the first thing I did when I got home was swap the CCRM and fasten it and the car did start. Did a koeo and still got the code 511, 565, and 542 but i didn't clear the codes nor did i remove the neg post though I know it's best to. Did a koer test and got codes 411 , 412 which both are IAC related pcm cannot control the engine rpm during self test but the car was running fine during the test so not so worried about the IAC right now. I know it's often said that if your car is running and you unplug the IAC and the car wants to die, then the IAC should be doing what it is supposed to? Code 116 ECT out of normal range also. The car showed 180 on the gauge and I guess though the ecm might get a different signal than what the gauge is showing.

I think in those regards it's not the end of the world so to speak and I proceeded to take the car on a drive. It didn't feel like it was too peppy so I stopped and popped the hood. I just wanted to see how the car would do when I unplugged the IAC while running and it wanted to cut off. I unplugged the TPS and it seemed for a second it picked up speed a little and I don't think it wanted to cut off. i took it out for a quick drive and brought it back for further checks. I think my glowshift fuel gauge sensor might be faulty because it showed 27 at startup and while drivng about 23 24 and when i pulled in garage about 21. Checking the volts at the inertia and then at the pump, the fp was at about 20. After about 5 mins of the car being off I started it back up to check the volts at the pump and the fp was at about 10. I got 13 plus volts at the inertia on both wires but at the pump on 5-6 volts with the car running.

I shut the car off for about 5-10 mins and put the mechanical fp gauge back on and it was 32-33 with vaccum line on and about 37 38 with line off. With the car still warm and the glowshift gauge showing 10 with the car running at that point of the checks, the mech gauge read right.

So now to the volts situation at the pump, I'm thinking I need to go from the green and yellow wire at the inertia and run a wire to the blk/purple wire at the pump harness connector just to see if I then get 12 v at the pump. I could either cut the hot wire running from the inertia to the pump or I can splice at the green yellow by twisting in the wire very tight just for testing purposes anyway. Matter of fact I was thinking of just running the wire out of the trunk haning over the bumper and even drive it like that lol, it's just for testing and if it automatically drives awhole lot better than I will make it permanent.

Thoughts......

the fuel pressure, I'll clarify lol

i was painting the picture of the fp in that moment....

Noobz347 said:

20 Volts?

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gkomo said:

I think the ECT is pretty important for a properly running car no?

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sure it is but i don't think that explains the voltage at the fuel pump at 5-6 after getting 13 plus on both wires at the inertia

Noobz347 said:

If you are only seeing 5-6 volts at the pump when it's under load, then this is a wiring problem.

That's a big drop between the inertial switch and pump.

Just double checking: You [are] running a return style system, right?

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yes and what are your thoughts on my plan to test with another wire?

Noobz347 said:

If you are only seeing 5-6 volts at the pump when it's under load, then this is a wiring problem.

That's a big drop between the inertial switch and pump.

Just double checking: You [are] running a return style system, right?

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and i was unable to check volts with the car off but switched on as I didn't have anyone to help

Noobz347 said:

Yeah... I think we've determined that you can't jump the FP relay without busting open a CCRM so....

Yeah, run a jumper wire. Tape and zip ties if you have to. LoL

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lol will do

Noobz347 said:

Yeah... I think we've determined that you can't jump the FP relay without busting open a CCRM so....

Yeah, run a jumper wire. Tape and zip ties if you have to. LoL

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I got a new belt tensioner on the way it'll be here tomorrow. I still hear a little squeal sometimes and even though the tensioner I took off the other car had more tension watching it when the car run I could see like a little slight jump in the belt and maybe that is causing the voltage drop as well.

Just checked the voltage with it just switched on and it was close to 12v.

Noobz I sent you a video of the belts