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Progress Thread Progress Thread kinda stalled- looking to get it back going again!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rdub6
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2017
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#41
  • Jul 11, 2018
  • #41
I decided to do the bushing. I was able to get a newer driveshaft from a buddy’s car (he went to aluminum), and I had new ujoints and yoke put on that. Hopefully that all solves my tranny leak.
I got everything off down to the crank, and now I’m wondering if it was my rear main leaking at all. The P.O. has put black RTV on the oil pan under the bearing, and after a few days, I’ve noticed a small amount of oil from the pan gasket. The rear main is still completely dry. Just wondering if you guys can see anything from the pic. To me, the rear main looks ok, and has definitely been changed already (its National brand), and looks higher quality than the one I just got from LMR.
I also replaced the pcv valve, completely took the screen apart and cleaned that, which was pretty gummed up. Maybe pressure was getting too high causing leaks?
I guess my question is would you do the seal, or wait and see. I’ve heard too many stories of them leaking again right after replacement, I’m leaning toward hoping it was the pan and the pressure. I did get quite a few turns on the pan bolts too when making sure they were tight. Thanks guys!

Ps. Anyone deleting the smog, don’t waste your time with the overpriced thermactor plugs. With the access I had with everything apart, a little in and out with a 5/8 bolt cleaned the threads, and these Allen head plugs from Ace worked like a charm.
 
Reactions: 90sickfox and General karthief

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#42
  • Jul 11, 2018
  • #42
That main seal looks fine to me.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#43
  • Jul 11, 2018
  • #43
Yeah, I’m leaning toward putting this all back together and see what happens.
I’ve cleaned EVERYTHING under here, so taking it apart again will be a breeze if I have to do it again.
I almost just want to see if the PCV issue and the loose pan bolts make a difference before I mess with the seal.
Just got my new spacer plate from UPS today too. The Ford piece on the right weighs almost double the piece of crap that was in there!
 
Reactions: Davedacarpainter and 90sickfox

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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Jul 22, 2018
#44
  • Jul 22, 2018
  • #44
Decided to replace it all while I was in there. Just used the bread trick on the pilot bearing. Worked like a charm!
 
Reactions: Davedacarpainter

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#45
  • Aug 3, 2018
  • #45
Just a few more pics of the progress
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#46
  • Jan 3, 2019
  • #46
Decided to pull my upper intake for paint and to clean everything up underneath. First time pulling one. Not too bad.
 

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
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Jan 3, 2019
#47
  • Jan 3, 2019
  • #47
While you have the upper intake off, check for oil leaks on the back seal of the lower intake. That could be running down and appearing to be a leak from lower.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#48
  • Jan 3, 2019
  • #48
Will do. Thx.
When I did my clutch, pressure plate and flywheel I was expecting to replace my rear main, but it looked fine. Maybe that is my culprit.
I did do the PCV and screen while I was in there a while ago, and it definitely seemed to have slowed considerably, but something definitely still dripping slightly.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#49
  • Jan 3, 2019
  • #49
Not one of Ford’s better ideas!! How do they think putting this valve under the upper intake, facing inward, was a good idea.
My old 86 GT that I owned had it right up front near the distributor!
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
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#50
  • Jan 3, 2019
  • #50
Rdub6 said:
Not one of Ford’s better ideas!! How do they think putting this valve under the upper intake, facing inward, was a good idea.
My old 86 GT that I owned had it right up front near the distributor!
Click to expand...
What is that valve for?
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#51
  • Jan 3, 2019
  • #51
BlakeusMaximus said:
What is that valve for?
Click to expand...

That’s the Schrader valve on the fuel line. Very difficult to get to if you need to relieve the pressure with the upper intake on.
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
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#52
  • Jan 4, 2019
  • #52
Ahhhh......yes, I remember.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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Jan 10, 2019
#53
  • Jan 10, 2019
  • #53
Did some wire wheel work on the EGR and spacer plate this morning.
 

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Reactions: General karthief

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
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#54
  • Jan 10, 2019
  • #54
Hey man...just a quick tip o recently learned.

If you wipe some car wax on the fresh metal it'll keep it from oxidizing and rusting. Ofcourse, painting would be a bit harder. Would need to thoroughly clean and degrease....but if you like the natural look...
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Jan 10, 2019
#55
  • Jan 10, 2019
  • #55
90sickfox said:
Hey man...just a quick tip o recently learned.

If you wipe some car wax on the fresh metal it'll keep it from oxidizing and rusting. Ofcourse, painting would be a bit harder. Would need to thoroughly clean and degrease....but if you like the natural look...
Click to expand...

Thanks. I do like the natural look, but I am concerned with it being a constant battle to keep it looking good.

Just got some brushes for my Dremel that I’m getting the corners with, then I’ll decide to paint or not.
 
Reactions: 90sickfox

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
3,953
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Long Island, NY
Jan 11, 2019
#56
  • Jan 11, 2019
  • #56
Just a quick update now that I’ve got the paint issues figured out.

Drivers valve cover done (just a test fit)


Passenger side off, cleaned, ready for prime.


EGR and spacer plate primed and ready for paint.


After paint:




I also just received the AC delete kit on sale from LMR, so that will be part of the underhood clean-up as well.
 
Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
Reactions: Davedacarpainter and Mustang5L5

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Jan 12, 2019
#57
  • Jan 12, 2019
  • #57
I'm looking at a complete, hooked up ac system, why delete it? If it don't work fix it! Your killing me here!
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
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Jan 15, 2019
#58
  • Jan 15, 2019
  • #58
Some more work today:

Second valve cover painted (still need to polish)


Bracket for MAP sensor has been bugging me for a while, so got that cleaned up.


and I’m sorry @General karthief , but I removed my compressor and lines, installed my AC delete brackets, and moved my power steering pump.



A few years down the road when I purchase my 134 retrofit kit from LMR, you can say “I told ya so”.

But while it wasn’t working, I couldn’t stand looking at the chewed up insulation on the accumulator line, and rusted, bent lines coming from the evap.
 
Reactions: Potomus Pete and Davedacarpainter

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Jan 15, 2019
#59
  • Jan 15, 2019
  • #59
Just a bit of fyi.... they're moving away from selling r134a to regular people in the next few years. All new cars have been running r1234yf. The new stuff is flammable but safer for the ozone layer.

If you have thoughts of going back ya might want to buy some r134a before prices get jacked up.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
3,953
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153
Long Island, NY
Jan 15, 2019
#60
  • Jan 15, 2019
  • #60
90sickfox said:
Just a bit of fyi.... they're moving away from selling r134a to regular people in the next few years. All new cars have been running r1234yf. The new stuff is flammable but safer for the ozone layer.

If you have thoughts of going back ya might want to buy some r134a before prices get jacked up.
Click to expand...

Wow, now 134 is the bad stuff? I must be getting older! 25 years ago when I was in the business, 134 was the good stuff, and we were just getting regulated on the R12. Seems as if they’ll never come up with something that will satisfy the powers that be.
 
Reactions: limp and 90sickfox
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