as im currently in a weird position of having money and no time, im in a tossup between doing a set of P-38 heads or tear the motor apart and put cleavland pistons on it, upgrade the bottom end, and turn it into a cleavor with c-400 heads, although id be pushing the stock block if I did so, although it would leave me with a great set of heads to start a FR-351x block build of a cleavor later.
the motor as it sits has:
Blueprint 205cc heads. 11.2:1 compression
65cc runner
62cc chamber
2.08 int
1.60 exh
comp rv cam : .254/.258 dur
.478/.485 lift
Harland sharp shaft 1.65 rockers
block a mid 90's Windsor, scat cast crank, scat ibeam rods and KB hyper pistons, nothing really special for a cheap crate motor, although I was surprised, they used all ARP fasteners in it
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it's set for road race, 3:55 gears and .79 on the final output gear, under 5k is where it's sweet spot is, and I don't like reving it over 6 cuz of the Winsor's main bearings, so I just planned to make a torque motor
ive watched the Mexicans doing it at work for years, I've picked up on several little tricks to do it, and it's really made the diff, thinning the mud, doing 3-4 layers, if your sanding a lot your doing it wrong, wetsponge... etc etc etc
so wiring was the worst part of the whole swap, who woulda thought?
getting the whole thing to work with a 351 in a non-analog canbus system... somewhere on pirate 4x4 I came across something that should have been obvious, but wasn't...
"the ecm doesn't care what the engine is as long as it's fed by a sensor that its programmed to recognize"
aka, all I needed to do to keep stock gauges was just use sensors off the V6 and put them on the V8 and bam... problems solved
hands down tho, hardest part was figuring what all wires to keep and what to cut on the stock harness to look 100% oem, and maintain functionality, spent about a week doing that... and damn what a headache
the speedo was tricky... the mechanical system off the T5 wouldn't work at all... and I couldn't find a hall effect unit to work with the tailshaft I had...
so I turned to the internet...
over on Jagsthatrun.com I found this trick little unit that mounts on your yoke on the diff, break off the tabs you need and just run the pickup to the terminator
Tach was easy, we just got a tone ring from an older mustang, turned the harmonic balancer on a lathe and drilled/taped 4 holes in it to mount it with and used an older style pickup
tight fit tho… didn't even check it before we turned it down or anything, im running the balancer bolt in and like man, is this going to stop in time?!
getting the whole thing to work with a 351 in a non-analog canbus system... somewhere on pirate 4x4 I came across something that should have been obvious, but wasn't...
"the ecm doesn't care what the engine is as long as it's fed by a sensor that its programmed to recognize"
aka, all I needed to do to keep stock gauges was just use sensors off the V6 and put them on the V8 and bam... problems solved
hands down tho, hardest part was figuring what all wires to keep and what to cut on the stock harness to look 100% oem, and maintain functionality, spent about a week doing that... and damn what a headache
the speedo was tricky... the mechanical system off the T5 wouldn't work at all... and I couldn't find a hall effect unit to work with the tailshaft I had...
so I turned to the internet...
over on Jagsthatrun.com I found this trick little unit that mounts on your yoke on the diff, break off the tabs you need and just run the pickup to the terminator
Tach was easy, we just got a tone ring from an older mustang, turned the harmonic balancer on a lathe and drilled/taped 4 holes in it to mount it with and used an older style pickup
tight fit tho… didn't even check it before we turned it down or anything, im running the balancer bolt in and like man, is this going to stop in time?!
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reused ALL the exhaust from the Fox, cut off about 3" from the driver side xpipe to draw the xpipe to center up the torque-arm, then put V-bands on most, trimmed alittle off gas tank
took absolutely FOREVER to get the pipes turned just right and centered where it needed to be before everything finally lined up
yes, they all cleared each-other... but its pretty dang tight... had to unbolt the torque arm and a control arm to put the tips in like this... and unbolt the panhard bar brace and re-position it later, but its done and just enough room for everything, even tho they aren't rated to work with each other, they do. =D
THE ZIPTIES ARE FOR POSITIONING ONLY!!!!!
they have all been removed!
took absolutely FOREVER to get the pipes turned just right and centered where it needed to be before everything finally lined up
yes, they all cleared each-other... but its pretty dang tight... had to unbolt the torque arm and a control arm to put the tips in like this... and unbolt the panhard bar brace and re-position it later, but its done and just enough room for everything, even tho they aren't rated to work with each other, they do. =D
THE ZIPTIES ARE FOR POSITIONING ONLY!!!!!
they have all been removed!
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